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P2196 and P2198...what to check

ssilence

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My wife's 2012 Ford Explorer got the codes P2196 and P2198 recently. They have since cleared, but wanted to know what I should check first. Any suggestions???
 
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peterk9

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An Internet search brought up;

P2196 Ford - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1

Possible causes
- Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
- Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted
- Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Inappropriate fuel pressure
- Faulty fuel injectors
- Intake air leaks may be faulty
- Vacuums leaks

P2198 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1

I think this calls for a dealer visit unless someone can explain what to do.

Peter
 

blanchard7684

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something is causing both cylinder banks to run rich meaning too much fuel for a calculated amount of air.

Peter's list is a good place to start.

This could be as easy as finding a vacuum line loose or as hard as getting new fuel injectors.

The MAF sensor could be giving false information causing the ECU to enrich the fuel mixture. Perhaps check the air filter. Is it plugged? can you see day light through the paper element? While there, look at the MAF...is it fouled up with oil, debris, etc?

The O2 sensors could be bad. They may not be reading right...this is rare on a new vehicle.

Vac leaks: check vac hoses. intake leaks are very tough to find without serious skill. they are also rare on late model ford engines because intake manifolds are mounted straight vertical. vac hoses leaks actually lean out the mixture...however, over a long period, the O2s will be feeding back to the ECU a lean signal which will force the ecu to richen the mixture.

I'd also recommend checking or changing the oil. If you like to run extended drain intervals sometimes your driving conditions can line up right (lots of short trips in cold weather) and cause the oil to be fuel saturated. the vapors will come off and through PCV valve giving the same issue.

Injectors: The way to check these is to take them off and have a friend cycle the key to see if there are gross leaks. Past this you have to take them to a place that can clean and pattern fuel injectors. Thankfully, fuel injectors are fairly inexpensive so replacing them in bulk is an option. I'd rule out everything before doing this though.
 

ssilence

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. This seems to be a very sporadic issue. Taking it to the dealership on Monday.
 

FordService

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. This seems to be a very sporadic issue. Taking it to the dealership on Monday.
Have you heard anything from the dealership, ssilence? How many miles are on your wife's Explorer? I'll be happy to do what I can to help.

Crystal
 

AQUATECH

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P2196 & 2198

Like ssilence, my wife's 2012 XLT is throwing up these codes and since we're elderly and on a fixed income, cash is tough, so we're trying to diagnose the rest ourselves as it's been costly thus far (run on sentence much?)

Car stutters frequently and sporadically (some days are good). Threw up those 2 codes. The vehicle also stalls hard right after a fill up. We only pump on the slowest setting and we do not top it off, ever. I've even waited 10 mins after a fill up before starting to see if sediments were getting tossed around and it still happens. After the near stall, I can shut it off and start it right back up again without any issues.

So far, I have changed PCV Valve and hose, all 4 O2 sensors, replaced the clean air filter, cleaned the already clean MAF sensor and now I'm stuck. Someone mentioned a Vapor Canister Purge Valve, but I'm not sure where it is, nor the correct part number.

Second owner of a 2012 Explorer XLT V6 @ 49k miles.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

peterk9

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Welcome to the Forum AQUATECH.:wavey:

I have merged your thread with this existing one. I'll try and see what ssilence found out from the dealer.

Peter
 

AQUATECH

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Hi and thanks!

I know some forums request a new topic per poster. Thanks for merging.
 

ssilence

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Sorry for being non-responsive everyone, the holidays kept me pretty busy. Let me outline the details. I had been monitoring my codes and somehow must have cleared them before I took the vehicle to the dealership. At the dealership I explained the issue we were having and left it with them. They called me back a few hours later and stated that there was nothing they could do because all of the codes had been cleared and they would need a code first before they began investigating. However, from my description the mechanic felt it was probably a leaking fuel injector,which is what I was originally thinking.

Before I went back to pick the item up I did a little more research and ran across a blog (can't remember where I saw it at) where someone else with a different vehicle stated they had a similiar issue. After some troubleshooting they narrowed it down to the the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. I got to looking at what it would take to replace that and the cost. It is a Motorcraft Part #CX2409 . I found it on RockAuto for $12.98, but didn't have time to wait for it to arrive. I purchased it from the Ford Dealership when I picked up the car for roughly $20.00. It was very easy to replaced, took about 5 minutes. Two screws and one connector, right under the engine shrowd towards the back of the engine. Very easy swap.

Since then we have not had any issues at all. No check engine lights, no rough starting or idling.

I did some research into what this part is used for and found that it is used to allow the gasoline vapors from the canister to be released into the engine. If the valve is stuck open it can cause a rich condition because the vapors are prematurely getting into the engine. This is especially true after filling up with gas. I tried to blow through the new valve, and it was sealed shut, nothing was getting through. I tried to blow through the old one and it was wide open, so I was sure this was the problem.

I found after some more digging around the cause of this problem is typically from people topping off the gas tank after it clicks the first time. This forces fuel into the canister and eventually to the valve causing it to fail. In addition, I found a recall for earlier makes of the Ford Edge that had this same part failing. So, that may have carried over to our vehicle.

Below is a link to the part.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1501951&parttype=4936
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2604044&cc=1501951
 
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AQUATECH

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Thanks for the help! I will stop by a dealer tonight to grab one. I hope this works. I'm guessing the previous owner topped off the tank quite often.

I'll be putting this in over the weekend and I will update this post with my findings.

Thanks again for the prompt reply!
 

ssilence

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Good luck, it was really easy to install. Hardest part was removing that flexible/rubber engine shroud. Once you do, you will see it in the back of the engine. One side screws is inserted directly into the engine and screwed down with two screws. The inlet has one of those fun to remove connection/quick disconnects for the inlet hose. Also you will find a wiring harness/connection you will have to remove. It literally took me 5 minutes to do. Very easy.
 

AQUATECH

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Done and done! Like ssilence had mentioned, the hardest part was pulling off that foam shroud.

Whole thing took about 10 minutes from start to finish. Make sure to have a cup of coffee first.

The true test is seeing if it stutters after its next fill up. In the interim, time to change the oil as it reeked of gas.

Big thanks to ssilence and peterk9 for the assistance!

Have a great weekend!
 

ssilence

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Let us know how it turns out for you...hopefully no more problems.
 

cwescapexlt4x4

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On Friday (our hottest day of the year so far 103F) after getting off freeway and at the following traffic lights and the Starbucks drive-thru started getting a "lumpy" idle and since my CEL had come on and from my OBDII reader and vehicle health report it was pointing at emission systems ... then the lumpy arrived. Called dealer for appt. Sat AM and sure enough, the Purge valve was the issue - replaced and no CEL now nor lumpy idle. 59K miles.
 

Mahmood Ali Niaz

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I have limited income and maintaining Ford Explorer 2010. Recently I got repair of Transmission. After that repair mechanic handed over me the vehicle with engine check indications. After checking on computer I came to know the following errors.

P2196
P2197
P2198

Please suggest me how economically I can get rid of them.

Thanks & Regards

ALi from Saudi Arabia.
 

Jimmy-B

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Just wanted to say thanks to ssilence for the information in this thread. Our 2012 Limited had exactly the same symptoms - stalling after filling up, occasional stumbling, and the same two fault codes. Owned from new, never topped off or anything. Started showing symptoms after being run very low, like 10 miles to empty, a couple of times. Normally I don't let it get below 50.

Replaced the purge valve and we're all good again.

This forum rocks. Renewing my elite membership immediately.

J

PS Ali, hope you found your way to the 2006-2010 forum?
 

peterk9

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.......Replaced the purge valve and we're all good again.

This forum rocks. Renewing my elite membership immediately.

J
Thank you for your help in supporting the Forum and keeping it operating.

Peter
 

Mahmood Ali Niaz

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Bundle of Thanks to Peter

[Dear Peter,

Still problem is there but I decided to send it to good mechanic for trouble shooting.

Regards

Ali
 

mcpcartier

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Some pics for ref...

Location - on top if intake manifold



Disconnect electrical connector - squeeze tab and pull gently



Disconnect hose...squeeze green tabs and push into the connector.



It'll look like this when its ready to be pulled off.











 
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robbrunner

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I have a 2013 Ford Explorer Sport and I am trying to locate the Vapor Canister Purge Valve and I can't seem to find it. Can anyone help me locate? I have looked everywhere mentioned above. I really appreciate any input.
 

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