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P97gt-7006 bbr


Well-Known Member
July 19, 2011
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City, State
Europe (Germany)
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 4.0 sohc xlt
Brian said at 09-29-2004

…but there is a severe lacking of understanding when you get to the "magical" piece that goes between the motor and transfer case. I'm hoping to fill in that gap at least a little bit.

Dear Brian,

thank you so much for your writing and explaining in your tranny thread.
And yes you filled up my big gap of understanding the 5R55E, but there is still a lot of space to be filled. This fabulous Forum and his cooperative members encouraged myself to lend a hand on a 5R55E spare tranny (P97GT-7006 BBR, 750NM).
I was very lucky to get this one from a forum member of this forum
My thread of disassembling the tranny

There is already a second (so-called) overhauled tranny installed in my 97 Explorer (4x4, V6, SOHC, VIN: 1FMDU34E8VUA67356), but this little beast lose its pressure day by day.
So I had to act and I would like to bring the disassembled tranny nearly back to zero miles.

But I must admit that this is much easier than done. A lot of time I spend on reading through the threads, trying to understand how it works and asking myself in still moments: “Could you manage it?” Every evening I studied my English ATSG 5R55E Techtran Manual and in my opinion it couldn’t be so difficult.

But the first thing I have to recognize is, that I am not able to detect which parts are worn out and which are not. The tranny has 86991 miles on it and is in good shape,
regarding the “hard parts”. I have no information about any issues about the tranny, it should be OK, but the Valvebody gaskets were blown out, the reverse servo bore has scratches and some wear in these servo bores. Disassembling the VB was a tricky thing for me.

For the beginning this circumstances caused me to order some parts for the VB (Transtec, Superior, Sonnax ZIP-Kit and gaskets). The second choice should be an overhaul kit I thought, but I was not shure if these offered kits will fit. And what about the quality? It makes no sense to me to order such a kit (with shipping and taxes) if it doesn’t fit and/or would not be durable for 100000 miles. So I decided to order parts separately, but I still didn’t have them all on my table. It seems that the list will never take an end.

Assembling starts at the end of the tranny, so I changed the output shaft needle bearing.
No problem with the Output Shaft Needle Bearing Replacer T97T-77110-A.
Next step was to install the control lever and the new seal, everything went fine.
Following the ATSG I put in the shaft, park gear, one-sided copper thrust washer.
Reverse drum follows with used thrust bearing 10b and the shaft retaining ring to hold the parts in position. New thrust bearings are on the usual route from USA to Europe.
At this point I measured an endplay of the shaft about 0,012 inches.
But if I grab into the body I can pull the reverse drum up for 0.059 inches. This caused me quite a headache. Maybe the tranny was opened before and there are some parts missing? Should there be installed a race for the thrust bearing?
Did the reverse drum has contact with the end of the body?

These questions at the beginning and my lust level swallows down a bit.
I think it is normal for a raw tranny recruit, but I would like to become some experience to get this tranny back together. The rebuild of a 4405 TC I could finish successfully, so I hope your forum could lend me a helping hand for this “magical” piece between the engine and the TC.

Special thanks to Brian and all the people spending their time helping each other!
This is the only way to keep these old trucks on the street.


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There is a snap ring that goes on top of the rear planets that will hold the rev drum in position.

Hi Brad,

you talking about this snap ring?


But the reverse planetary has a play about 0.059 inches,
while the snap ring is installed.
Maybe it's normal, i don't know?


Yes that is the snap ring. And yes the planet and rev hub will have end play. The sun gear on the reaction shell will go through the planet and rest on bearing on rear ring gear hub and maintain your total end play through the forward drum to the center support.

thank you Brad,

so you dissipate my doubts about this endplay of the reverse drum.
Now i have to wait for parts like bands, thrust bearings an so on, ordered them by time but shipping takes some time.

At this point i am still wondering about the first thrust bearing at the end of the tranny. In this picture you can see the bearing and a race (?),
but i didn't found this race during my disassembly.
Maybe this is an "update" part, not installed in my spare tranny?



I take of my hat off to all tranny guy's!

Thanks so much Mr. Transman!


That race would have been attached to the bottom of the rear ring gear hub. It would have to have been pried off hub as it is a interference fit. It has a brass colored ring that holds it to the hub.

Brad, i think i should make a date with the optician.
Disassemled it again and I didn't realize before,
that the race is pressed on the gear hub.
Now i pried it off and i think it is still ok.
Hope the brass ring is in correct position,
with the mark "RACE SIDE" up?
I promise i will have a twice/third look for upcoming parts;)




Waiting a long time for the electrical parts for the 5r55e,
they still arrived but unfortunately the new TRS comes
with the 11 pin design. The original Ford TRS (F7LP-7F293-AA)
has 12pins, somewhere here (cant relocate) i read that it makes trouble with the 11 pins.
Could someone confirm this? Or what is the difference?
Makco didn't list any other TRS.
Ford oval and number are grinded out???






As i disassemled the 5r55e i recognized that some clutch frictions
were mixed, according to the directional grooves. If i understand it
correctly the friction plates should be installed face up with the overprint "TOP".
Get new ALTO plates, but maybe the print on two frictions
is on the wrong side? There are different directions as shown.



kind regards


The 2 clutches have been marked incorrectly in the Direct clutch pack. Just orient them the same way as the other 4 when you load the drum.

That should be no problem, the problem is the thickness of the clutchpack.
Maybe i must mix old and new steels to get the correct endplay.
Thats a NOGO, isn't it?
Correct way should be, order different snaprings with different high.

My old Lady (Expl.) has so much "building lots", so the tranny must wait a while.
One internal thread (motor) of the lower intake manifold, and two int. plastic threads of the upper intake are overtorqued. Wondering why idling is bad, so i found the reason.

Feeling like a pathfinder who has to do a good deed every day!
But i love her.

thank you Brad


Hi Wolfgang,

You sure can use old steels as long as they are flat and have no blemishes on the surface to get your proper clutch pack clearance. Snap ring of assorted thickness is always handy. Also your range sensor is the correct one. They remove all Ford identifications as it is being sold by another vendor.

Hi Brad,

thank you for this information. Yes the old steels are in good shape, flat and not overheated but a little bit worn down. Maybe it was a fault to disassemle the tranny, maybe not? I dont know.
But i am so curious about these things, so i have to move on!


VIN: 1FMDU34E8VUA67356
Build Date 01/10/96


want to order the complete set of solenoids for the 5R55E, but i am unsure
about the TCC and the part number
(with -> 97 up, or without 95-96 ->inductive signature).

On my used TCC these numbers are shown.
97GT-7G136-AB (0260120023 Bosch number?)

So i found these numbers on inet

Which TCC i have to order?




Hi at all,

most time, while i am trying to to the tranny job, i am waiting for parts.
Not wasting the time i would like to know the function of the rear band.
Ok it's for driving backwards, but in what circumstances it will be activated.
Found this table, reverse band applys in Man.1st, what does this mean?


kind regards



Hi again!

Long time ago, but i have to rebuild my Dana35 font axle.

The transmission is reassembled to it's specs, everything went fine.
Now the tranny is ready to get its brain (VB) back.
Thought by myself, it couldn't be so bad to order some shift kits.
Got three of them, but now (after talking to some tranny guy's) I think I should not mix them?
I am sure that have read all posts of the 4/5R55, but i didn't found something about that.
The valvebody seems to be in good condition and it looks like original without any upgrades or drilled holes.
Seperator plate seems original too?
Reading the shift kit manuals, the manufactors follow different intentions.

The sonnax zip kit, I like that best, it's my favorite.
Any good advice?






Do not mix kits. Very bad idea. The Zip Kit is my go to kit and on the hole size I have found the .062 hole for location 6C can be enlarged to .075-.077 with great results. Helps the TCC circuit be a little more efficient. Looks like you have things well under control. Best wishes.

Hello Brad!

Things under control, not really!
Trying and hoping are my best friends:D

Yes, now I know that mixing kits is a nogo. Think i will use the sonnax kit, going step by step through the manual.
Your hint to enlarge the 6C hole ? I didn't understand why going to .075-.077, but you have your reason I think.
I am a VB-newbee, but will give my very best!

thank's so much!


Hi at all!

Continuing my valve body repair with the sonnax-zip kit, but i am thinking about these 6 L-retainers. The positions should be clear, unfortunately it is not clear (for me) in this sonnay sheet.
Installing the L pins while i push in the valves or installing pins at the end of the job?

One L pin is for the little valveplug groove in bore 103 ?
Another L pin ist for valve in bore 108 ?


What did sonnax intend with this optional procedur in step 3 ?
Didn't really understand it :(
Please light up my gray brain;)


thanks in advance


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5R55E bore 101

Still twiddling on my valve body,
came to bore 101 Forward Engagement Control Valve.
The original endplug, you can throw it into the bore:(
VB is in good shape but this bore is worn out in plug area.
I don't know what could cause this wear?
Unfortunately the Sonnax Kit did not have a o-ringed plug
for this bore.


So i recognized, that there is a white spring in the Superior Kit,
yes i know do not mix shift kits, but did it make sense to waste some thoughts about installing this white Superior spring?
(o-ringed endplug made by myself)