Painting cladding and bumper

[LuvMySportTrac04]

So I am planning on painting my cladding and front and rear bumpers black. I've looked around and saw that people have used 12 oz krylon fusion for plastic for about five dollars a can. I was pricing paint and saw a 6 pack case of 12 oz. Rustoleum paint and primer in one for about thirty five dollars. The krylon is cheaper but doesn't come in a case here. If you were painting yours which paint would you choose? Which would last longer and look better?

 

[JohnnyO]

Thing is, Krylon Fusion is made for plastic and less likely to flake off. Satin black is very close to stock appearance. I did the step bars on mine almost three years ago and they still look great (and haven't faded). I rubbed them down with acetone first. I got the Krylon at Wal-Mart although the satin black seems to sell out quickly.

 

[01STrunner]

I would go with Krylon. I used gloss black because I wanted it to shine when the truck is clean. It holds up great and doesn't fade. Only time I have to touch it up is after an off-road trip from scraping on rocks.

The key is all in the prep work. Make sure everything is very clean and dry. I just used dawn soap and warm water to wash mine and make sure everything was 100% dry.

Thin, even coats will get you the best results.

 

[OffTrac]

Just to be a contrarian, the Rustoleum I used still looks good two years later.

 

[LONO100]

i used krylon fusion satin black. more of a stock look with satin, but if you want some shine, go gloss. the important part is your prep work. take the time to tape well where needed, remove what you can, use TSP to clean it, and a good tack cloth to wipe down. sand any rough spots, take your time when applying paint. multiple thin coats, spray side to side, dont spot paint. victory loves preparation!

 

[LuvMySportTrac04]

Thanks! I pretty sure I'm going to go with krylon fusion. What kind of sandpaper should I use to sand the rough parts? And what is TSP?

 

[LONO100]

get a pack of wet sanding paper for subtle rough spots, get regular fine grit sandpaper for bigger, deeper blemishes. TSP can be found in any paint section in any hardware store. it costs 7 bucks usually and is a good cleaning agent when prepping a surface for painting because it wont leave behind a film, or grease like soap or simple green would leave. good luck and post picks!

 

[kcbme]

Is there any other way to get the rivets holding the back bumper off without using a dremel to cut them as I dont have acess to one.

 

[01STrunner]

I used a sawzall

A hack saw would work as well

 

[kcbme]

Alright thanks

 

[Kjhadfield]

I want to tackle this project too but everytime I think about it and start looking at the cladding rivets all I see is rust, 1 or 2 privet holes rusted out and no telling how strong the remaining are after I try taking it apart. I sure would end up with a bigger project. I wouldn't even know where to start.

 

[swshawaii]

Removing the Side Cladding
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/RemoveSideCladding/RemoveSideCladding.htm

Front Bumper Cover Removal
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/FrontBumperCoverRemoval/FrontBumperCoverRemoval.htm

Removing the Rear Bumper Cover
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/RemoveRearBumperCover/RearBumperCoverRemoval.htm

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Clips_s/219.htm

 

[Kjhadfield]

Removing the Side Cladding
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/RemoveSideCladding/RemoveSideCladding.htm

Front Bumper Cover Removal
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/FrontBumperCoverRemoval/FrontBumperCoverRemoval.htm

Removing the Rear Bumper Cover
http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/RemoveRearBumperCover/RearBumperCoverRemoval.htm

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Clips_s/219.htm

I'm not afraid of the removal process, just the crumble after. I seen the link for clips but don't know how that would help in my situation, I'm no body man but it looks like body work is needed to fix that.
This is the only pivet hole rusted threw

But 90% of the remaining look like this

 

[swshawaii]

YIKES!

 

[Blue91Ex]

you aught to get that rust fixed soon, the right way too, dont be liek me and use silicone caulking and bondo.. its better to do a little body work and not worry about it rather than let ti get bad and wonder if you will ever find patch panels big enough...

 

[LONO100]

man im glad i dont live in the snow!

 

[Kjhadfield]

I don't have a clue about body work and don't even think I would want to tackle it but then again I don't know what price tag it would be to get it done, so that may change my mind.

I live north Florida but bought it up in Minnesota. I should thoroughly inspect all rust spots, I know there is more

 

[Blue91Ex]

if you go to a good small shop they can usually do rocker panel replacement for a couple/few hundred, at least around here, i think my grandparents have a local shop weld on new rockers to their gmc for like 150 but they didnt fully weld it or smooth out the edges with bondo, just takced them on and spray painted them to pass inspection.