Parking (Running) Lts Failure...

[ibstang]

I haven't spent much time with new-kid intro's (pardon me), but I've been having an incredible experience wandering the vast halls of Explorer lore at hand...

I've recently acquired an '05 Explorer XLT, at what I thought (at the time) was a bargain price. HMMM...

The issue at hand...Parking/running Lts are dark. Down-loaded the OEM manual, and even bought the on-line Chilton's manual. The Ford manual seems to have a slight disconnect with my current reality, and Chilton's is refusing my log-on requests. GRRRR...

Mind thee now, I've had over thirty years experience as a marine electrician, including consultancy translating Italian schematics for American boat-yards. For what I've seen, so far, of the Ford schematics...You've got to SCHLITZING me. It took me a fair while to determine that I'm dealing with not just one, but TWO fuse blocks, the second being buried under the dash (you *******I ). Anyways, I have identified an anomaly at the under-hood block BJB (battery junction block) at fuses 42-46...

With key "run" ("x" being "hot")...
sw 42 43 44 45 46
-O O na X O O
-P O na X O O
-H X na O X X

Before I embark on a Crusade of biblical proportions, I thought I'd see if one (or more) members might have dealt with a similar situation...Y'all know where to find me...Stang

 

[ibstang]

Oh, bugger...My graph of fuses 42-46 didn't type-set translate. In a nut-shell, F44 stays hot with the h/lt sw at off or park, then goes off with hd/lt on. F43 is empty. The remaining fuses do the inverse...Go figger.....

Edit...Jostled the graph a little, with the left side as switch position- off, park, and head/lt...

 

[Donystoy]

From my manual it indicates #18 fuse in the box under the hood behind the battery. Could also have an issue with the light switch itself. Doesn't seem to be anything else in the running lamp circuit. Seems strange as I have an "auto" position on mine which turns on the lights at dusk. No indication of this in the schematic that I have in my Haynes manual. If the brake lights and signal lights are operating it would rule out a ground issue.

 

[ibstang]

Thanks for the reply...I was finally able to access my Chilton's on-line and, oh brother, they've got schematics!! So much so, that it's a bit of a brain-sprain trying to stitch together the scattered links to complete a circuit. Fortunately, I've started to find pages with individual major connectors and components shown, along with pin-out tables. Just a bit of a challenge to balance the lap-top on yer knee, while you're tearing the dash-board apart. All of this techno-wienie stuff, and nuthin' beats hard-copy and Hi Lighter pens....

While I'm on the learning curve with my Secret Squirrel 'Splorer decoder ring, I'll agree that the symptoms are favoring a commonality such as the headlight switch. I don't really have an option for down-time, but I don't mind runnin' with a few panels open. I already have my new T/Sig stalk to install, but was waiting to find PRNDL repair parts (going to attempt improv repair of existing bits). I suppose I could take my chances at the local PickyParts for the headlight switch, but with resources like Amazon/RockAuto/etc, if the price is right, I'll roll the dice and have the new parts at hand. ...Stay tuned...

 

[TechGuru]

Get your money back on the Chilton. I'll PM you a link to free Chilton.

Personally I like my Mitchell1's wiring schematics better.

Follow the brown wire on the right, it can pretty much only be fuse 16 under the hood or the switch.

 

[ibstang]

Brilliant, Guru !!...That's what I call a proper schematic. Not only are the circuits color-coded, they give a description of the physical location for the connectors (should cut down on the "Easter-egg hunts")...

I'm afraid that with Chilton's, "All Sales Are Final" but with your PM advice, I should get my money's worth. I just suspect I'll be spending more time hangin' around the Mitchell's camp....

Thanks, Guru...
...Stang

 

[ibstang]

Okay, kiddo's...Got this one BEAT !! The above schematic narrowed things down to fuse #16 at the under-hood box, the tan/wht lead (pin 10) into the H/L sw, and the brown wire (pin 12) out to the circuits. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that switch access didn't require dismangling the dash panels. It's just held in place by three metal spring-clips, and can be gently jimmied out with a small screwdriver.

A quick check with the ice-pickometer showed no power in or out, and I also found something after-mkt (alarm?) hooked into the brown lead with a quick-tap (deleted). Careful examination revealed F16 to be vacant, which I quickly remedied and... Aloha-Hooey, Baba-Booey... We gots LIGHTS !!

Night fell shortly after, and I must've looked like a Pagan dancin' around my first campfire. Off-on-off-on, 4-ways...change the front blinker-bulbs (colors didn't match)...Ooh-Ooh...Remote PANIC BUTTON !!...BWA-HA-HA !!...

 

[TechGuru]

Okay, kiddo's...Got this one BEAT !! The above schematic narrowed things down to fuse #16 at the under-hood box, the tan/wht lead (pin 10) into the H/L sw, and the brown wire (pin 12) out to the circuits. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that switch access didn't require dismangling the dash panels. It's just held in place by three metal spring-clips, and can be gently jimmied out with a small screwdriver.

Yep.

A quick check with the ice-pickometer showed no power in or out, and I also found something after-mkt (alarm?) hooked into the brown lead with a quick-tap (deleted). Careful examination revealed F16 to be vacant, which I quickly remedied and... Aloha-Hooey, Baba-Booey... We gots LIGHTS !!

Yep, that's exactly where I tapped in my aftermarket alarm to the parking lights.

Night fell shortly after, and I must've looked like a Pagan dancin' around my first campfire. Off-on-off-on, 4-ways...change the front blinker-bulbs (colors didn't match)...Ooh-Ooh...Remote PANIC BUTTON !!...BWA-HA-HA !!...

Get these for the front, they use actual amber glass instead of dye/paint that the Syl and GE ones use (which fades and cracks and makes a mess of the fixtures). They also give a deeper richer amber color compared to the dyed ones. I usually have to get them online because the big box stores don't carry Wagner although there is a chance smaller stores like NAPA could. Don't think about upgrading any of the exterior lights to LED other than the license plate, reverse lights, and 3rd brake light.

 

[ibstang]

I like where this conversation is going...Thinking about adding to the title, something about "dashboard digging", and existential chats about OEM/LED lights will be welcome. Rifling through yer notes on replacement supplies, I noticed a strong Blue-Oval loyalty, with a devotion to tungsten. I have to wonder, tho, if that isn't akin to my finally surrendering 35mm emulsion photography for digital. Camera tech has made exponential leaps, as have LED apps.

It's still not fully matured (LEDs), but it's getting really interesting. Among other adventures, I used to drive Big-Truck, and a stupid burnt license-plate light on a company trailer could land you a $5-600 "chat" at the scale-house. Just thinkin'...Cheap insurance....

 

[TechGuru]

I like where this conversation is going...Thinking about adding to the title, something about "dashboard digging", and existential chats about OEM/LED lights will be welcome. Rifling through yer notes on replacement supplies, I noticed a strong Blue-Oval loyalty, with a devotion to tungsten. I have to wonder, tho, if that isn't akin to my finally surrendering 35mm emulsion photography for digital. Camera tech has made exponential leaps, as have LED apps.

It's still not fully matured (LEDs), but it's getting really interesting. Among other adventures, I used to drive Big-Truck, and a stupid burnt license-plate light on a company trailer could land you a $5-600 "chat" at the scale-house. Just thinkin'...Cheap insurance....

There is no loyalty, I'd buy a Toyota 4Runner in a minute if I could afford one right now. lol No devotion to tungsten either, just no legit safe alternatives available at this time which you will find out if you browse CandlePowerForums (Automotive, Motorcycles Included.). My reasoning for mainly Motorcraft replacement parts comes from this video:

 

[ibstang]

On the subject of air-filters, I've been a fan of K&N products for ages, but maybe rethinking my position. Seems to be some wisdom in these circles concerning contamination of the countless down-stream digi-sniffers, especially MAF. I've also read (elsewhere) that they foul the O2 sensors but, post-combustion, ain't no way. I've also been off-campus, exploring Sea-Foam treatments, think I'm trying that next (currently showing 9 MPG, and fault-codes up the wazoo)...

 

[TechGuru]

On the subject of air-filters, I've been a fan of K&N products for ages, but maybe rethinking my position. Seems to be some wisdom in these circles concerning contamination of the countless down-stream digi-sniffers, especially MAF. I've also read (elsewhere) that they foul the O2 sensors but, post-combustion, ain't no way. I've also been off-campus, exploring Sea-Foam treatments, think I'm trying that next (currently showing 9 MPG, and fault-codes up the wazoo)...

Is yours a FlexFuel model? If yes, run a couple of tanks of E85 though it.

 

[ibstang]

Mine's strictly an old-school bronto-burner, to which I hear E85 can do unwholesome things. SeaFoam has a lot of coverage on YouTube, including one rural fella' that gave a hi-miler Ranger (Courier?) the full 3-way dope, with pour-cans in the fuel tank & oil pan, and a spray-bomb up the snorkel. The little back-lot beater started runnin' around like an old lady with a new hat (the vid even includes aerial drone shots).

What really impressed me was a follow-on vid, a year later. The pick-em-up is still goin' strong, even in the back-40 environment on private farm roads (read: dirt). So now I'm thinking about seeing how far I can get with injectors, valves, and intake runners relieved of 15 years (and 172K mls) worth of crud, before making further decisions...

 

[Drewmcg]

...
Get these for the front, they use actual amber glass instead of dye/paint that the Syl and GE ones use (which fades and cracks and makes a mess of the fixtures). They also give a deeper richer amber color compared to the dyed ones. I usually have to get them online because the big box stores don't carry Wagner although there is a chance smaller stores like NAPA could. Don't think about upgrading any of the exterior lights to LED other than the license plate, reverse lights, and 3rd brake light.

Good call on these, Techguru. Here's what the Sylvanias looked like when I replaced them a few days ago:


[/QUOTE]

 

[ibstang]

Good call on these, Techguru. Here's what the Sylvanias looked like when I replaced them a few days ago:

I'll second that ...Had I known the diff with my last purchase, I'd def go the extra buck or three for the good stuff. Just thinkin' about how many bulbs I've pitched over the years just because the "dip" wore out...