fixt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- November 15, 2010
- Messages
- 144
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- North Carolina
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1996 5.0L XLT AWD
Here's how I fixed my passenger power window, maybe of help to someone else.
The problem:
No power to passenger window switch.
The culprit:
The power carrier wire on the driver's side door bundle inside the boot. This wire is pink/green. At least I think it's a carrier.
I had previously had a problem inside this bundle and noted the sorry ass wiring they used. It also happened to be the same pink/green wire.
It is a prime suspect because this is pretty crappy wire that gets a workout with the driver door opening and closing all the time.
This bundle has a 10mm captive bolt holding it in place. It comes loose but not out. Also a tie wrap securing the boot to the cannon plug. Just snip it loose and don't forget to replace it for weather tightness. You don't want this bundle getting corroded.
The wire was completely broken but not at my previous repair (HA!) The wires were now too short to solder and too far inside the rubber boot.
I pulled the vehicle side of the boot loose and pulled out the wire and soldered in a piece about 4 inches long. Be sure to flux the wires, that stuff is terrible to solder and make sure it gets hot enough. No acid core solder. Now slide your shrink tubing over the new wire and heat it by whatever means at hand. You want a nice tidy wrap close to the wire for soldering and so it won't flex around and pierce the shrink tubing. Then I used hemostats shoved through the boot to grab the wire end and pull it through. Now slide the next piece of shrink tubing. Wrap the remaining two ends and solder with plenty of flux. Slide the shrink tubing forward and heat it until it's done.
Edit: Don't forget you must have the cannon plug in place for testing as it's a carrier, not a fused hot wire.
Work the vehicle side of the boot into place beginning at the back side. It goes back pretty easy but a skinny screwdriver may of help. Curl any surplus wire inside the boot and reassemble. The door side of the boot has grooves on the plug it fits into, then use a 11inch tie wrap tightly secured with the loose end cut close.
Test it of course to make sure it's working correctly and you're done after any further reassembly required.
Of course it's a pain working in the door gap. If it wasn't a pain it wouldn't be a Ford
Hope this helps someone else from chasing in weird places.
The problem:
No power to passenger window switch.
The culprit:
The power carrier wire on the driver's side door bundle inside the boot. This wire is pink/green. At least I think it's a carrier.
I had previously had a problem inside this bundle and noted the sorry ass wiring they used. It also happened to be the same pink/green wire.
It is a prime suspect because this is pretty crappy wire that gets a workout with the driver door opening and closing all the time.
This bundle has a 10mm captive bolt holding it in place. It comes loose but not out. Also a tie wrap securing the boot to the cannon plug. Just snip it loose and don't forget to replace it for weather tightness. You don't want this bundle getting corroded.
The wire was completely broken but not at my previous repair (HA!) The wires were now too short to solder and too far inside the rubber boot.
I pulled the vehicle side of the boot loose and pulled out the wire and soldered in a piece about 4 inches long. Be sure to flux the wires, that stuff is terrible to solder and make sure it gets hot enough. No acid core solder. Now slide your shrink tubing over the new wire and heat it by whatever means at hand. You want a nice tidy wrap close to the wire for soldering and so it won't flex around and pierce the shrink tubing. Then I used hemostats shoved through the boot to grab the wire end and pull it through. Now slide the next piece of shrink tubing. Wrap the remaining two ends and solder with plenty of flux. Slide the shrink tubing forward and heat it until it's done.
Edit: Don't forget you must have the cannon plug in place for testing as it's a carrier, not a fused hot wire.
Work the vehicle side of the boot into place beginning at the back side. It goes back pretty easy but a skinny screwdriver may of help. Curl any surplus wire inside the boot and reassemble. The door side of the boot has grooves on the plug it fits into, then use a 11inch tie wrap tightly secured with the loose end cut close.
Test it of course to make sure it's working correctly and you're done after any further reassembly required.
Of course it's a pain working in the door gap. If it wasn't a pain it wouldn't be a Ford
Hope this helps someone else from chasing in weird places.