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Passenger Front Window Repair


Well-Known Member
November 15, 2010
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City, State
North Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 5.0L XLT AWD
Here's how I fixed my passenger power window, maybe of help to someone else.
The problem:
No power to passenger window switch.
The culprit:
The power carrier wire on the driver's side door bundle inside the boot. This wire is pink/green. At least I think it's a carrier.
I had previously had a problem inside this bundle and noted the sorry ass wiring they used. It also happened to be the same pink/green wire.
It is a prime suspect because this is pretty crappy wire that gets a workout with the driver door opening and closing all the time.
This bundle has a 10mm captive bolt holding it in place. It comes loose but not out. Also a tie wrap securing the boot to the cannon plug. Just snip it loose and don't forget to replace it for weather tightness. You don't want this bundle getting corroded.
The wire was completely broken but not at my previous repair (HA!) The wires were now too short to solder and too far inside the rubber boot.
I pulled the vehicle side of the boot loose and pulled out the wire and soldered in a piece about 4 inches long. Be sure to flux the wires, that stuff is terrible to solder and make sure it gets hot enough. No acid core solder. Now slide your shrink tubing over the new wire and heat it by whatever means at hand. You want a nice tidy wrap close to the wire for soldering and so it won't flex around and pierce the shrink tubing. Then I used hemostats shoved through the boot to grab the wire end and pull it through. Now slide the next piece of shrink tubing. Wrap the remaining two ends and solder with plenty of flux. Slide the shrink tubing forward and heat it until it's done.
Edit: Don't forget you must have the cannon plug in place for testing as it's a carrier, not a fused hot wire.
Work the vehicle side of the boot into place beginning at the back side. It goes back pretty easy but a skinny screwdriver may of help. Curl any surplus wire inside the boot and reassemble. The door side of the boot has grooves on the plug it fits into, then use a 11inch tie wrap tightly secured with the loose end cut close.
Test it of course to make sure it's working correctly and you're done after any further reassembly required.
Of course it's a pain working in the door gap. If it wasn't a pain it wouldn't be a Ford
Hope this helps someone else from chasing in weird places.

FYI, the main power window wire is blue/black and goes only into the LF door, through that huge door jamb connector. The master switch allows that power wire to connect internally, to a red/blue wire, which runs back out of the LF door, and into the passenger doors. That is the one wire that powers the other windows, and it comes from the master switch.

All of the other wires going to the window switches, are ground wire paths. Everything is a ground wire when no switch is pressed, except the main power wires. When any switch is pressed, the power passes through the switch, to a window motor, and back out through the switch, and into one grounded wire.

So for the OP, the wire you repaired was for one window, and controlled by the master switch and not the passenger switch. All of those many wires in the door jamb are fragile and prone to break over decades of time. It isn't all Explorers that have the problem, but I'd guess it's maybe 60% of them. Some have no issues at all, I think it came down to how the wires were placed into the door jamb and the connectors.

wiring driver door switches.JPG


Hey that's really great info CDW6212R.
There may be some slight differences in wire coloring but they are all there and lets me or anyone else know what to look for.
I couldn't even find a pink/green wire on the passenger side and the locks worked. I just assumed (dangerous) that it changed color somewhere deep in the guts of the dash at an unknown termination. But I knew I had a broken wire that I repaired and that fixed it. I guess I got lucky and that works too sometimes.
Sometimes those schematics are guides rather than precise maps regarding wire colors. That picture (which I saved) is a dang good guide of what to look for and its well labeled. All wiring info is good info. Thanks for that.

Very good, that's a picture/diagram someone else made long ago, and many people have saved it to repost it. The door lock wires are very tiny and I have had two of my trucks have the unlock wire break somewhere(door jamb most likely). I had to learn the wiring without any diagram, I just dug into it all as I removed it from my 99 truck, and learned where it all went.

I just needed to know how it worked, so I could find a way to install a master switch in the RF door. So now I have that done for diving from the right side, but it took some thought to make it work. I had to isolate all of the window motors with two relays for each. Then I could use the OEM wires to trigger the windows, plus extra wires from the extra master switch, to the same relays. Thus I have two extra power window wires for each door, plus the two relays, and it works well.

RF window switches-relays.JPG