PATS / SecuriLock keys questions | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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PATS / SecuriLock keys questions

It’s a free software that communicates with your car with a USB OBDII plug
 



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They're charging you that just to cut a key and not to program it? That's completely insane. This is nothing but a standard key copy procedure that takes 2 minutes. Definitely don't give them any business unless they just misunderstood and can change the cost to $5 or less.

If they're mailing you a key, something doesn't add up. This should be nothing more than handing a key over and someone sticks it in a machine to do a physical copy. Nothing electronic involved.
 






They are mailing a cloned PATS key. It’s an automated machine, and not a locksmith. That’s why it’s mailed.
 






Yeah, I kind of figured that was the only thing they could be doing. Definitely not what you want done here.
 






For some it’s a viable option. Some people aren’t going to be comfortable, or want the hassle of getting a ELM, installing a program on their laptop, and trying to input a key into the computer. It’s cheaper than the dealer, and they store the key digitally, so you can always have them duplicated again.
 






That's fair. It just doesn't give you the benefit of two true keys that can be used later to make another. Cheaper than going to the dealer though.
 






LOL. The 00-01 especially have things that much outweigh any PATS concerns. PATS is extremely reliable, and if you limit your searches to 96-97, good luck. It’s hard enough to find them clean, and low enough mileage without refusing 4 years of a model over something silly.
Actually I agree with all of you pro PATS people. The info provided looks pretty straight forward. And come to think of it, I have a '99 Ranger that I assume has PATS on it because it has one of those "Fat" keys. But I only have one key. The ignition switch will have to be relocated for my '54/Ranger Project because I will be using the F100 column and dash. I guess I need to relocate it to a hidden place within reach of the Ranger harness or extend (solder and heat shrink) to the '54 glove box area, so that the '99 Ranger key that has to be in the tumbler, will work as designed. I actually don't mind that "antitheft" aspect of it
 






Actually I agree with all of you pro PATS people. The info provided looks pretty straight forward. And come to think of it, I have a '99 Ranger that I assume has PATS on it because it has one of those "Fat" keys. But I only have one key. The ignition switch will have to be relocated for my '54/Ranger Project because I will be using the F100 column and dash. I guess I need to relocate it to a hidden place within reach of the Ranger harness or extend (solder and heat shrink) to the '54 glove box area, so that the '99 Ranger key that has to be in the tumbler, will work as designed. I actually don't mind that "antitheft" aspect of it

For the 54 F100 project, can you get a 91-94 Explorer steering column to mount in there? The PATS is easy to disable with a PCM tune(new program). I don't know if you like or dislike your old F100 steering wheel etc, I've got my old 93 column planned to go into my 73 Ranchero. I'm after the much nicer steering wheel, CC, and tilt. I just bought a new key cylinder for it, under $60 from Ford here.
 






I'm going for a stock appearance on the column and wheel in this project. I know the '54 steering wheel is huge but I also have a '63 Econoline wheel that is noticeably smaller and the F-100 horn button fits it. Now it is a toss up as keep the PATS as a security feature. I'm hesitant to poke around in the PCM (I'm sure someone with the tools and experience wouldn't have a problem with it) however it is a "Flex Fuel" PCM (3.0 V-6, not a HOT ROD i know) and I assume that they are not very common. Or are all PCM's per engine series programable for the different versions? I'm a pre PCM guy so computer controlled systems are "high tech" to me and beyond my "Automotive Aptitude". The fact that I have a $300- running driving 1999 Ranger with cold AC for this project is helping keep the cost way down. New sheet metal is going to be the high cost on this one.
I feel like I might be stepping on someone's thread talking about my 54-99 Ranger project. I'll start a new thread soon when I can get pics and get the bed roughed in.
Thanks for the guidance and I am curious about the PCM's versatility or not.
 






Donald's DIY bypass might work well for your setup
 






2004 Sport Trac, 2wd. I received my keys in the mail from KeyMe today and they do work. When I called the lady at 'KeyMe', she said the price for one key was $99.95, but she sent me a coupon for 25% off. So, I anticipated paying $75 plus tax. When I opened the app at the kiosk, I was given a better price of $59.95 per key, but if I ordered 2 keys, they would throw in a third key for free, or less than $120 + tax for all three. So, I took advantage of that offer and now I am the proud owner of 4 keys, two of which I don't really need. But, who knows...
 
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