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PDF Tranny Manuals



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K80

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Here are some photos of the new tranny:
New%20Tranny%20SB.JPG

New%20Tranny%20P.JPG

New%20Tranny%20Ant.JPG



It's clear from this photograph that I will have to use my old bellhousing after getting it line-bored. The bolt pattern may even match(I don't think so, but I will know for sure when the snow goes away and I can hold it up on my block)but the shape of the thing is all wrong. Regardless, the starter bolts would definitely be wrong.
Using%20a%20Breaker%20Bar%20on%20the%20Bellhousing%20Bolts.JPG

New%20Tranny%20Pos%202.JPG

Here is the extension housing. It sucks that I have to rebuild this damn thing just to change the output shaft. It's like two inches too short for my non-AWD housing.
New%20Tranny%20WO%20Fron%20Pump%20Seal.JPG

A close-up showing the space where the front pump seal USED to be....If you look closely you can see the five OEM notches....I will get a picture of the seal up here and you can see if YOU think it's OEM....
 




K80

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Oh, and as an aside, the diff on the donor explorer had one of these as well:
WTF2.JPG

But the REAL kicker? So did the transfer case! The one on the transfer case was smaller and a slightly different shape and won't spin, but it's strange little ass was there nonetheless!
So really; WTF?
WTF1.JPG
 




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Which place did you send the 3.0L bell housing for the bushing repair? The 4.0L bell housing has a different bolt pattern, and can't fit your 3.0L engine. A link for part 2 was added to the first post.
 




K80

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I haven't sent it anywhere, yet. I was planning to take it down the street to Abel Racing and see if I can't slip someone there a Jackson to handle it.
So it's confirmed: this is officially a 4.0 tranny, which may account for the shorter output shaft?
The omission of a link to part two was purposeful on my part....I intend there will be ten or twelve parts to this entire production, and I don't want to clog my header with a bunch of un-necessary links.....after all, if you get here from outside the site, chances are you want to start at part one, which is why I link it everywhere; but if you started on part one, and are moving sequentially, there is only a need for the last part and the next part.
 




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I was thinking about adding a theme into the title for a while, but I never got around to mentioning it. What do you think about adding the word introduction into part 1, tear down into part 2 or something along these lines? It will make it easier for somebody looking for specific details once you have multiple parts.

As for the bushing, there are only 2 places in the USA with a special lathe to cut the bushing into place. A regular shop can't pop out the old one, and press a new one in. It has to be concentric.

Check these links:
http://www.precision-technologies.com/
http://www.precision-technologies.com/_wsn/page2.html
http://www.omegamachine.com/db/hard_parts.asp
http://www.omegamachine.com/html/bell_housing_guide.html
http://www.omegamachine.com/pdf/Ford_front.pdf
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/a4ld.html
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/56001X-IN.pdf

bellmachining.JPG
 




K80

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Here are some pics of the new TC:

The%20New%20TC.JPG

The%20New%20TC%20Upside-Down.JPG

Looks pretty nice at first glance....

The%20New%20TC%20with%20Numbers.JPG

The writing is just clear enough to make out: "7F-51AF 4.0" "6-3-03" The part number turns up nothing on Google. But it's pretty clear the "F" is for "Ford" and the 6-3-03 is the rebuild date. Since my TC was very likely OEM, that makes this one at least fourteen YEARS newer.

So the Big Question: Would this TC, being fourteen years newer AND from a 4.0, pose any compatibility issues with my '89 3.0?

The%20New%20TC%20Snout%20with%20Glazing%20and%20Scoring.JPG

A smoked TC snout. As if that weren't enough evidence of overheating, the pics of the fluid truly tell the story....
The%20New%20TC%20Burned%20Spillage.JPG

The%20New%20TC%20Spillage%20on%20Paper.JPG

Some of the tranny fluid on paper for cheap analysis. Despite being burned, there is almost no metal contamination.
The%20New%20TC%20Spillage%20on%20Paper%20BL.JPG

The%20New%20TC%20Spillage%20on%20Paper%20CU%20of%20Particle.JPG

These are the largest particles on the paper.....a good sign in my book.
 




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K80

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As for the titles and what not, yes, that is on the way, once I get a gestalt of the finished product....at that point, it will be possible to do all the final polishing....
Eventually, there may be a different structure to it entirely....just depends upon the final content......thanks for the input.
 




K80

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Stall speed.....that would be how fast the TC has to be spinning before the pump motivates the tubine, right? What is the variation between this one and my old one? How much difference could it possibly make? Couple hundred RPM? Wouldn't the only obvious result be a faster or slower roll at idle?
How important is the stall speed, versus having to get a rebuilt TC? (which I could actually get a core on now)
 








K80

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Ahhhh....I just read the wiki.....So the general Idea here is with an inappropriate stall speed,(the angle of the blades in the TC)the most pertinent result will be too much speed on the TC body vs. the clutch plate when the lockup phase occurs....IF the stall speed is too low....If it's too high, then the result will be a much tamer; "generation of excess heat" in the TC and decreased fuel efficiency at higher speeds.....
Right?
Question is, with all this heat in the TC(where, since the applied surface area is greatest, heat would also be greatest), that may explain why the TC from this tranny exhibits symptoms of overheating, why the fluid does as well, but also why there is no evidence of metal shavings in the fluid, which would indicate an internal tranny failure instead of the TC overheating.......so the question is, how do I infer whether the stall speed for this particular engine and transmission(Guliver's A4LD)is made more or less appropriate for my intended application than was the former?

Damn. That's a freak'n mouthfull....Okay: The TC was clearly wrong for the engine and tranny it USED to be hooked up to.....Considering HOW it was wrong, will it be MORE wrong for my 3.0 or LESS wrong?

Jeezz....I just have no way to be sure the question you read is the question I am asking.....don't you hate when that happens?

And BTW, would anyone happen to know what is the duration on stock cams in a 3.0 Vulcan V-6?

And, more basically, what is my peak power output RPM? I'd need a dyno to be sure about that one, but let's get real here....a dyno? For my Aerostar? Now? Lol.

In any case, it's likely that the stall speed of this converter was too high for the engine it was on, for whatever reason. That was a 4.0 so since I have a 3.0, the likelihood that it's even more wrong for my engine is high....right? Damn.
 




K80

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I guess I have a good-size aqua-green paperweight now....lol.
Well, if anyone wants to have a free bellhousing, I'm volunteering the one from this PAP tranny. Just pay shipping from where I am(OKC, Ok)to where you are and it's yours. Remember, the front seal is already out, so it's not like you could just pop it in when you got it without installing a seal. I will post pictures of the bellhousing and bushing nice and close when I begin the tear-down on it.
I do intend to convert Gulliver into an AWD in a bit, so I will hang onto the 4.0 output shaft and extension housing for the day when I have a transfer case in.....
 




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Crap on me....

Okay. I've been off the radar for a while due to much book-reading. I finally got my 2005 ATSG A4LD Update Handbook in PDF. LOTS of cool stuff in there.
The last five days have been one nasty little revelation after another. Apparently, half the parts I've been pulling out of Gulliver's old tranny may or may not be the correct damn parts! This sux donkey.
Then there was the damn shift linkage lever retaining pin. FORD = A$$HOLES!
I will get some pictures up right now, but I want to show you guys the remaining length of a pin that used to be twice as long as it is now, but I was supposed to use dikes on a 1/6" little aluminum nub that was literally the tip of the iceberg? [email protected]%$#ing Ha!

Bored%20Out%20Shift%20Linkage%20Lever%20Retaining%20Pin%20Cavity.JPG

Outside%20View%20of%20Bored%20Out%20Shift%20Linkage%20Lever%20Retaining%20Pin%20Cavity.JPG

Inside%20View%20of%20Shift%20Linkage%20Lever%20Bore.JPG

As you can see above, my solution to the pin problem is to totally bore out the pin hole and carry it through the case. This will enable me to use a steel sleeve with a cutout for the linkage shaft to line the bore, tap out threads in the sleeve, insert a bolt from the outside of the case and finally use JB Weld to seal up the bottom end. After the JB Weld is set, I will back out the bolt and finish off the JB Weld on the inside with a honing stone on my Dremel tool.

Which begs the question: WTF was Ford thinking NOT doing this from the get-go??!?!?!??! Why the HELL were they satisfied with a POS PITA little pin?!?! There really is no reason I can think of NOT to do it this way.

But who's perfect? If you can think of a good reason why this is a bad Idea, please let me know....
 




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Don't start drilling the case. This once happened to me, and I had to buy a new case. This problem came up on the forum before, and one member sucessfully removed the damaged pin with a welding stud gun. The stud gets welded onto the top of the damaged pin. You could pull on the stud to remove the pin. Harbor Freight sells this tool, but it's too expensive to use only one time. Take the case to a body shop, and ask them to use a stud gun on the pin.

Sonnax makes a repair kit for the case, but it's expensive. You will need a special bushing, and an oversize pin. Pull out the existing pin, and use a regular nail from a hardware store. Insert the nail, and bend it into the channel. This will be much easier to remove than a small pin. For future reference, the proper way to remove the pin is to take 2 flat screwdrivers, and pry against the pin. They will grab it, and lift it out at the same time.

I saw that you mentioned the ATSG update manual in PDF format. The regular manual is on a couple of websites, but I didn't see the update manual. Where did you find it? Could you post a link?
 




K80

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Well, I think the pictures I have up here show that the case has already been drilled! Too late. Besides, while the screwdrivers is a good Idea, it would not have worked this time because there was not enough of the pin vertical face to do that. It was veed, you see, and the dikes were pretty much the only thing I could have used on it. As for the stud gun, I don't have one. Not sure who would if not Abel Racing down the street, but I want to try this mod with a bolt from the outside.

What, specifically, did you do to your case? How large and at what angle did you make the hole? Did you use a top-mounted fastener, or did you stick with the internally oriented fastener?

I can do better than post a link; I'll make up a torrent real fast. I'll post the link here when it's done.
 




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I was trying to get the pin out, and cracked the corner of the case in this area. This was years before I knew about this forum. What kind of program do you have for making a torrent out of a program? I was trying to do this a couple of weeks ago, but I only have a program for downloading a torrent, and not making a torrent.
 




K80

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Hmmm....Well, the program for downloading a torrent is your browser:D

What torrent client are you using? Chances are it does have the ability to make a torrent.

There seems to be a lot of confusion around about exactly what a torrent is.... A torrent is basically a roadmap to a destination along with a description of what to find there. That's why torrent files are so small, even for a file that is gigs in size.

When you make a torrent, you are telling the torrent client to write a description of a file(which can be a program, a text file, a PDF, etc.) you have; including things like it's filename, extension, size and finally it's location in a vast decentralized network, put this short description into a file of it's own and publish the description.

If you want people to be able to find your torrent with a search engine, like Google, you will want to upload the torrent file that you made to a tracker, which is a publicly or privately accessible web server that hosts a copy of the torrent file so the servers' users can download it.
This process is quickly being replaced by the use of magnet URI's which drastically improve the life of a torrent server because evil buttheads can't shut it down for having a file that describes where to go for something you want. It would be like a cop being able to arrest you and take your property because of an entry in your datebook; "Swing by Harry's for drugs". Which could easily have meant; "Stop by Harry's Drugstore for Ventolin".
Anyway, if you want to make a torrent, open your torrent client and see if there is a "new" button in the file dropdown. If so, then you can make torrents.
When I'm done with my torrent, I will post the Magnet URI. When clicked, the forum users' torrent client (if installed) will open and download the torrent file directly from my server. Once that is done, the client will automatically begin downloading the file the torrent points to from me.

The torrent client I use is Micro-Torrent (seen as utorrent mostly because people don't know what a "micro" symbol looks like). It is small, powerful, and very kind to system resources. If I'm really getting serious about a release, I will use Azureus (NOT Vuze--it sucks) for the vast options and add-ons and what not to work with my IRC drones and RSS feeds for distribution across a wide area very quickly.
Both of these programs are freeware. Google 'em.

Oh, and I figure this goes without saying, but do everyone a favor and make sure you have something besides dial-up web service if you want to make a release. I can't count the number of scenefreaks who U/L at like 504 Bytes/sec because they are pumping 50 torrents across a 56K modem line.....:rolleyes:

Good luck with the torrent, and PM me if you have difficulties.
 




K80

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As for your cracked case, I have not cracked mine, as you can see....I stepped the bit size up 8 times, even though this is aluminum. I don't really want to buy anything from Sonnax for this problem. For one thing, I want my retainer bolt to be accessible from outside the case, so I can use a proper hexagonal fastener. I may bore a flush recess into the rim of the linkage guide to accommodate flush seating of the fastener and prevent drift. Also, I plan on recycling the worn out bushing from my bellhousing and adapting it to the purpose of being a sleeve for the new bore. I will post pictures of the process as it develops.
 


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K80

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Here is the Magnet link:

A4LD PDFs

If you have a torrent client installed, clicking this link will open it and commence the D/L to your default download directory.

If you don't want all the little files, and you just want the Update Handbook, it is labeled as "A4LD-HB.pdf". Just tell the client to skip whichever ones you want it to skip. Though, if you have an A4LD tranny, I think you probably will want all of these. I have a LOT more books like this now, for every tranny you could think of. Several gigs of PDF ATSG tranny books.

PM me with any requests.
 




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