Peel & Seal or Ice Guard vs Dynamat | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Peel & Seal or Ice Guard vs Dynamat

jeff96

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 25, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Fayetteville, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 Ninja 636, 96 Ex Sport
Has anyone here ever used Peel & Seal/Ice Guard as an alternative to Dynamat? My biggest concern with using this stuff is I don't want my car to smell like asphalt. At 12 dollars a roll this stuff is very enticing. If anyone has ever used this please chime in. For those of you who have no idea what i'm talking about this stuff is used as a base in roofing. It has an asphalt adhesive with an aluminum backing just like dynamat without the stamp. Just not sure if the chemical make up is the same.
 



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Heck, at that price you could put 3 layers on and still be cheaper than dynamat!
 












The foam can't be used on the floor or headliner, mostly for hollow body pieces. It won't allow you to lay the carpet and headliner back on smooth. Most people that have done the Peel & Seal install do use a few layers. But the problem is i remember hearing one guy complain that his car smelled during really hot days like asphalt. This is the last thing i want, so i am looking for someone that can either confirm this or not.
 






I used Ice Guard in my Ex! It worked great. Cost me about $70 for 200 sq. feet I believe. Works every bit as well as dynamat at 1/10 the cost. And no, it did not smell like asphalt afterwards so don't worry about that. Just make sure you use one of those rollers to get it into all of the crevices/curves well, or else it will come off when it gets hot.
 






i have a friend who heard about the peel n seal from his roommate who did his silverado, then he (my friend) liked it so much he did his blazer....from what i'm told it does the job pretty well...he bought his at lowe's, but i went there and the lowe's up here doesn't carry it.
 






Most housing contractor places will have it. If you can't find it at Lowes/Home Depot, check in the phone book for housing contractors. I went in there and asked for a roll and they looked at me like I was crazy, then I told them what it was for and the guy was like, "Hmmm.... That is a really good idea! I should try it!"
 






I am going to go and get some at lowes today. I'll check back in to tell you guys my likes and dislikes about it. From what i'm told it'll take a few days to do a quality install. Have to remove all the interior, wipe everything down and lay lay lay.
 






What you might want to do is stick a heat gun on it to see if it starts to smell like asphault. If it doesn't with a heat gun, it probably won't in your car.
 






I used the peel and seal in the doors and, yes it did smell likeasphalt but only for a day or two. However, it did add some weight to the door, so I'm not sure about the long term effects on the door hinges. It did make the door sound moresolid when closing and I feel there is a difference in the audio. BTW, I did apply it to the inner portion of the outer door skin and the door under the door panel.
 






This stuff right from the package is strong enough to knock you out. But hopefully once the sticky substance is against the metal it will hold the smell in.
 






It will be strong. But after you apply it the smell will dissipate in a few days.
 






Let us know how this turns out jeff! I really want to do it to mine!!!
 












how heavy is a roll?
 






I'm in the process of doing this stuff now and what a pain!! Its like working with a giant shingle. At this point I think I'm going to do only one layer on the floor and the hatch. And to get it to stick good you have to use a heat gun on the adheasive to warm it up. Too bad it isn't sunny and hot hear, i could just roll it out in the sun for a while. :(
 






when i went to lowes they were currently out of peal and seal but had something called trim and seal which they told me was the same thing. Looked very similar just the roll was alittle skinnier but it was also half the price of peal and seal (was six bucks). They only had one roll of that so that all i could get for now. With that one roll i did 3 layers on my drivers side door. The package only weighs a couple pounds at most. I am guessing i will need atleast 7 more rolls to do the rest of the vehicle
 






I used the Peal and Seal on my Maxima. It worked wonders on the vibration and focused more bass into the cabin (I did the trunk). I found the heating it up with a heat gun until it was almost melted gave it a really good bond. I burned my fingers a couple of times on the melted adheasive but learned quick to wear gloves.

The X is much bigger, but should be a piece of cake compared to crawling into a sedan's trunk!
 






Ok i have'nt had alot of time lately, but i have managed to sound deaden the two front doors. I used a package of peal and seal on each door. And a can of rubberized undercoating on each door. I put a layer of peal and seal on the inside of the door and sprayed it with the rubberized undercoating. Then used the rest of each package and can on the outter door skins inside the cabin. Its unbelievable the difference its made. Focuses so much bass into the cabin it almost sounds like i have a 10 sub somewhere. At this rate though its not going to be as cheap as i thought as i've already spent 35 bucks just on the two front doors. And i still have the rest of the explorer to do. But then again i have been putting alittle over 3layers and a can of rubberized undercoating on each door. Oh yeah and its amazing how snug the intererior fits to the door now, door feels as solid as a rock.
 



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A quick question for you folks that have put the sound insulators already.

How exactly do you put it on the inside of the door? As far as I can tell there is a solid metal frame that would make it very hard to put a sheet down in the hollow part of the door.

Maybe I am just being dumb, but how do you guys do this?
 






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