Phenolic Spacer source for 1997 MM 5.0

[allmyEXes]

Hello all, Y'all and you guys, I am looking for a 1" phenolic spacer for 1997 Mountaineer 5.0. I've found them for Mustang 5.0s up to 1995 but I don't think that would quite fit my application. Thanks in advance for any info. Greg in north Alabama.

 

[Josh P]

INTAKE MANIFOLD SPACER Fits GT40 5.0 FORD MUSTANG Explorer COBRA 1" USA Made | eBay

This 1" thick spacer for standard GT40, Also Explorer and Cobra 5.0 intakes. CNC machined from a Automotive approved heat resistant. high tech composite material. This material is not cheap but much better quality.

www.ebay.com

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P Thanks for the info. Have you used this product? Looks good. I suppose phenolic isn't any better?

 

[Josh P]

Seller doesn't list what type of material is used for the spacer, only the gaskets. If it was me, I'd spend the coin on having the lower intake ported and skip the spacer

 

[allmyEXes]

There is a physical reason that I won't get in to right now. I'm weighing a lot of options and haven't decided what to do before I spend approximately $1500- no matter which way.
For option 3 I need more space between the valve covers and the bottom of the upper intake.
I also wonder if the 87-93 fox body aluminum valve covers the same dimensions as the '97 5.0 Ford/Mercury stamped steel covers?

 

[Josh P]

That spacer will give you the space you need, can't go wrong for the price and it includes the hardware.

 

[allmyEXes]

i gotta head out for work

 

[allmyEXes]

@Lee's Automotive Lee I moved our chatter over here. I hear ya on the 4.0 SOHC. I have one that needs to come out and be fixed or replaced. Is yours not working? to many burnouts?

 

[CDW6212R]

The Fox Mustang 302 VC's are said to clear many popular rockers(gut the inside baffle too), but I'd avoid roller rockers if you can(they are very loud and don't gain much power for the money). I'd test fit the intake etc, before deciding on a spacer, the EGR pipe is affected a lot by any spacer.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P and @CDW6212R Josh, Yesterday I was talking with Don for a while about electronic shifter options and possibly carbureting the '97 mm.
Don, after I totaled up the cost of the US Shift parts, A new Holley and throttle position sensor for the Holley and an aluminum intake the total was getting close to the Holley Terminator max system. When I said option 3 that is what I was referring to. In fact not too long ago Jamie @410Fortune used the term option 3. That just so happens to be the same if I am correct. Holley Terminator Max for an LS but use it on the Ford. Lifting the top half on the intake would make room for coils etc. I would assume though that the HTM would come with GM type connectors on the powertrain end of things. i need guidance on the parts that I need to purchase.
here are two engine pictures

It's hard to see from this view the space between the valve cover and the bottom of the lower intake

Here is another view. Mice have made a mess on top of and below the upper plenum. I can clean it up when installing the spacer. With Don's help I have convinced myself to keep it fuel injected. This will be my 1954 F100s future powertrain so any overspending will be the '54s fault. (LOL)

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R I would probably keep stock rockers, cam etc. My engine code is"P". That's about the best factory 5.0 built wasn't it. As far as fixing the problem that I have repairing it with a different original harness and PCM, I would be putting 25 year old parts right back into it. What if they fault out too? by the way, where is the EGR pipe located?

 

[CDW6212R]

That's the early 97 302, so it has GT40 heads, which is good for potential head choices. There aren't many good headers for the Explorer, hopefully that F100 will allow some kind of decent header in there.

The wiring is all brittle for sure from an old Explorer, but if it's removed carefully, it has a good chance of being okay. The injector connectors will all break the tiny tangs of of the locking piece, but you can buy those, and most other connectors too.

If the Holley EFI system ends up being the choice, aim for one with the wiring length you need to place it best. I don't know any of the various versions, I'd bet they are mostly for wiring lengths and the connectors used. Jamie might know more of that since he's had conversations about it with his parts source etc.

 

[CDW6212R]

If that engine isn't hurt from the misfiring, it probably only needs some new valve springs and valve seals, and some minor things outside.

 

[allmyEXes]

When the engine finally comes all the way out it will get totally rebuilt and enhanced here and there. maybe stroke it up a bit. 347?
It has 250K now and I hope with a new chain and gears I can squeeze out another 50K. If I could get stock replacement springs and I had already considered in chassis replacing the valve stem seals using the rope in the cylinder trick with my homemade spring compressor tool. From looking at '98 exhaust manifolds vs 1997 headers, it appears that they would work better with the coil near plug setup. When it is finally in the '54 F100, wacky, cool TMH headers WiLL nOT be necessary, nor the short front pulleys and brackets. The radiator sits a whole lot further from the engine. brb...

 

[Josh P]

Now I understand what's going on...

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P I didn't really have much time this past a.m. to explain. I'm trying to fix the mountaineer for now then later pull the entire power train to use in my '99 Ranger '54 F100. Project. I'll need to make up a repair manual to be used in the future so if someone ever gets ahold of the vehicle later, they will be able to figure it out. Did that sound right? I must be getting tired, almost 9 p.m. in north Alabama

 

[Josh P]

It makes sense. What is the budget for this build?

 

[CDW6212R]

I have the heads for building a nice moderate 306, I was going to rebuild one for my 99 V6 swap deal later. But I doubt I'll get to that, and just sell it and move on. I was planning to build the 306 and run it shortly in my Ranchero, prior to a nice 351C, to test the wiring/system/fuel etc. I don't see a great reason to build one and only use it temporarily. So the heads are now another item I may not need. They are Flotek 180's that were slightly ported and new, and I paid an extra $260 to have custom cam valve springs(kit) installed. I would call them about a 235cfm head, GT40's are under 190cfm, and most high end heads are 250-275cfm(for $1800 or more). New and being a knock off head(of a GT40X), they all need special care to find or correct any deficiencies etc. These were built by Thumper, an old well known GT40 porting guy, he's retired now.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

@Lee's Automotive Lee I moved our chatter over here. I hear ya on the 4.0 SOHC. I have one that needs to come out and be fixed or replaced. Is yours not working? to many burnouts?

Its fine just constant rattle

 

[allmyEXes]

@Lee's Automotive All of the 4.0 SOHCs have a unique rattle to them. Some just worse. On this forum there is at least a half of a ream of paper worth of discussion and repair. @donalds might know near exactly how many pages.