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[PHOTO DIARY] First Gen Explorer Water Pump Removal in 10 Steps.

mechjames

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These instructions were mostly followed by the Chilton's manual, but I took photos and added tips.

I have been combating a squealing noise in my truck. It comes and goes, usually quiets down when the truck gets warm, but not all the time. I thought it was the alternator, and would be most likely the alternator bearings, but after removing the drive belt, and spinning it over, it is fine. Checked the power steering pump, it is ok. Grabbed the fan and spun the pump over, WHOA, lots of slop in the bearings. I was surprised it was not leaking. At least I caught it now.

So here we go. 10 Steps to getting your water pump off.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You're working under the hood, and don't want to accidentally put a wrench or ratchet by the battery, then boom, it touches the frame, blowing a $6 huge fuse.

2. Drain the cooling system by removing the petcock under the passengers side of the radiator. I recently did a couple coolant flushes last summer, 1 to combat cooling trouble, and 1 more with a new radiator install. I have only driven a couple thousand km on the truck since, so I saved the coolant. The only time you should replace the coolant if it is a few years old, or if it gets contaminated (Head gasket, transmission cooler, etc).

I used kitty litter containers, after being washed of course. They also have tight fitting lids, so animals shouldn't be able to get into them.
wp1.jpg


3. Remove your intake air tube. Disconnect the hose clamps at the throttle body and air box.
wp2.jpg

wp3.jpg


4. Loosen & Remove the serpentine belt. On earlier first gens, lock a wrench or socket on the tensioner at the top, and loosen the belt, and remove. On the later first gens, your tensioner is under the alternator. Lock a ratchet and socket on the back of it, and loosen the belt. I believe on my Dayco improved tensioner, you use a 1/2" socket on the tensioner bolt to move it.

5. Loosen the bolts on fan cover, but don't remove it. You can remove the bolts, but leave the shroud in. It is easier to remove the shroud after the fan clutch has been disconnected. The bolts are 8MM.
wp4.jpg


6. Remove the fan and clutch assy. This is where it's easier to buy special tools. I bought these fan clutch removal tools for about $22 from the local auto parts store. The brand is "Performance Tool" and they do carry a lifetime warranty. Bonus.
wp5.jpg


Also, a bonus, is that these work on 1984-87 Ford 4.9 LE and F series, 84-87 Ford Bronco and Rangers 2.8, 88 3.0 Aerostars, and 89-current Dodge B Series Cummins Diesel Trucks. So if you own those vehicles, another bonus. They might even work on the EFI 2.9's.

So, they have a 1/2" drive hole stamped into them. This is so you can use a breaker bar or socket wrench for more torque.
wp6.jpg


Use the long small wrench for the big nut behind the fan, and the big small wrench to hook around the four bolts holding the pump on. This allows you to hold the pump shaft and fan clutch, so you can loosen the bolt.
wp7.jpg

tool.jpg


Some clutches turn counterclockwise to loosen the bolt, some turn clockwise according to the service manual. Look on your radiator fan shroud. Mine said it is right hand thread, so you simply loosen it in the direction of any nut, counterclockwise.
wp8.jpg


Now the fan clutch is off, you simply pull the shroud out and the clutch at the same time. The radiator shroud is just clipped in at the bottom. Simply pull up, as long as the bolts at the top have been removed.
wp9.jpg


7. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
wp10.jpg


8. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Since we removed the belt, you can either use a strap wrench to remove the bolts, or use a socket as well as a wrench to hold the pulley so the bolts can be loosened. Where I positioned the wrench, i turned it clockwise, and the socket wrench counterclockwise as below:
wp11.jpg


Now some manuals say to remove alternator bracket bolts, a/c bracket bolts, power steering bracket bolts, but I didn't have to do anything like that. Maybe it applies to the earlier first gens, i'm not sure. Maybe it has something to do with installing the new pump on, i'm not sure yet. It seems as if the whole job can be done by leaving all brackets in place.

9. Disconnect the heater hose at the pump. I couldn't disconnect the hose, it was so worn and bulged, I had to cut it off. If your heater hoses have never been changed recently, it is a good time to do it. You do not want to repeat this job to get at the hoses easily again. I am changing it before I put a new pump on.
wp12.jpg


10. Remove the pump bolts and remove the pump. Use a 10mm socket to get the bolts off. There is 12 bolts total, so if the pump won't come off, count your bolts.

Its pretty easy, just feel around for the bolts. Hardest one to do on mine was the one behind the belt tensioner. Just simply use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 10mm socket and it comes off.
wp13.jpg


And then you have a water pump.
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Now, contrary to popular belief, people have said that bolts snap and that they are not all the same size, so do not mix them up. On my truck, none broke, no corrosion, and they are all the same size.
wp15.jpg


Scroll down to post #15 http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2424911&postcount=15 to see how to reinstall.
 


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FIND

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Excellent write-up, make sure you clean that grime sometime though:thumbsup:
 




YBCold

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i wish u had posted this a year ago when i needed it. somehow i got it right though. good right up, instead of using the special too though i used one of those oil filter wrenchs to hold the pulley, the kind with the bicyle chain and some channel lock pliers to grab the Nut holding the fan clutch.

and the last screw you show removing was a bitch to remove. for me atleast. BTW this should be Sticky IMO
 




mechjames

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Excellent write-up, make sure you clean that grime sometime though:thumbsup:

I'll be giving it a nice cleaning around the pump before I install the new one. Picked up the new pump today, but forgot the sealant. I'm going to look around here at home, otherwise i'll get the job done tomorrow. I also need to get the new hose from the water pump to the heater core. Is it just 5/8?

The grime doesn't really bother me much, it's just going to get dirty next time I go through a mud puddle.

i wish u had posted this a year ago when i needed it. somehow i got it right though. good right up, instead of using the special too though i used one of those oil filter wrenchs to hold the pulley, the kind with the bicyle chain and some channel lock pliers to grab the Nut holding the fan clutch.

and the last screw you show removing was a bitch to remove. for me atleast. BTW this should be Sticky IMO

Yea, it only took me about an hour an a half to figure it all out. Took me two weeks to get the water pump out of my Dodge Stratus. Just no room FWD by the strut tower.

YBCold, since you have a 91, is there anything different about the brackets? I know the brackets and tensioner is different on my friends 91XL, is there any annotations I should add?
 




YBCold

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I'll be giving it a nice cleaning around the pump before I install the new one. Picked up the new pump today, but forgot the sealant. I'm going to look around here at home, otherwise i'll get the job done tomorrow. I also need to get the new hose from the water pump to the heater core. Is it just 5/8?

The grime doesn't really bother me much, it's just going to get dirty next time I go through a mud puddle.



Yea, it only took me about an hour an a half to figure it all out. Took me two weeks to get the water pump out of my Dodge Stratus. Just no room FWD by the strut tower.

YBCold, since you have a 91, is there anything different about the brackets? I know the brackets and tensioner is different on my friends 91XL, is there any annotations I should add?

well for me the problem was i didnt have a 1/4 size ratchet so i just had to use an open ended wrench to get to it from under the car. maybe its a perspective thing but it looks like you have more clearance around you ilder pulley than i do. but aprart from that i cant see any differnce in you engine from mine.
 




mechjames

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well for me the problem was i didnt have a 1/4 size ratchet so i just had to use an open ended wrench to get to it from under the car. maybe its a perspective thing but it looks like you have more clearance around you ilder pulley than i do. but aprart from that i cant see any differnce in you engine from mine.

My pulley isn't stock, it is the Dayco improved pulley that they sell. Suppost to be stronger then stock, and it is a different shape too. That is probably the only difference.
 




Gadget X

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I've got a "squealing" that I have been thinking was my alternator, too. I guess I'll have to check it out and see if I don't have a water pump that's an accident waiting to happen! Great writeup!
 




mechjames

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I've got a "squealing" that I have been thinking was my alternator, too. I guess I'll have to check it out and see if I don't have a water pump that's an accident waiting to happen! Great writeup!

Yup, i'm glad I found this accident waiting to happen. In my Stratus, it went when I was on the other side of the water on Vancouver Island. I got towed back to the ferry from the cabin I was staying at and only had enough time before all the water leaked out of the pump to get on the ferry, let it cool down for the 2 hr ride, and then drive off. Just as I got off the ferry, the water pump seized up, and shredded my timing belt.

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Its not a big job to do on an explorer, and it won't allow your valves to hit the pistons, but it would probably take the serpentine belt and possibly the radiator with it if the shaft snapped. Even if it just takes the serpentine belt, you have a limited time to drive before it overheats, but you're also on battery power only. If your battery is a few years old, it won't get you that far.
 








BrooklynBay

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mechjames

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Thanks for making this thread! It's now a sticky on the top of the stock 1991-1994 section. I look forward to seeing the second half of this thread (installation).

Thank you BrooklynBay.

I will be picking up the heater hose and the gasket sealant tomorrow, and will probably finish the job tomorrow night, if not Wednesday night.

Is there any special gasket sealant I should use, something water resistant? The parts store I use carries Permatex products. Otherwise I will probably just use the blue stuff.
 




BrooklynBay

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I installed a paper gasket (it might be Felpro, but I'm not sure) on my 89 van, and 3 months later, the gasket blew out on the highway about 10 minutes after the transmission failed! I don't know if this is a coincidence, but I've never heard of 2 major failures happening a few minutes apart. I would recommend either neoprene or rubber. Avoid paper or cork materials.
 




mechjames

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I installed a paper gasket (it might be Felpro, but I'm not sure) on my 89 van, and 3 months later, the gasket blew out on the highway about 10 minutes after the transmission failed! I don't know if this is a coincidence, but I've never heard of 2 major failures happening a few minutes apart. I would recommend either neoprene or rubber. Avoid paper or cork materials.

It does have a gasket with it, but the manual says Use a sealant on both mating surfaces of the gasket (block and pump), and the instructions with the water pump say the same thing.
 




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mechjames

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Here is how you put a new pump in:

11. Scrape off the old Gasket. And really scrape it. If any little bit of the gasket is left, it can cause the new one to not seal properly and possibly create a leak. In the picture below, you can see the bead of sealant that was applied to seal the gasket. Normally a gasket will normally either fall off or break apart easily. With sealant on both sides, you WILL need a gasket scraper to get it all off.

rp1.jpg


12. Put the sealant on the new gasket and pump. I decided on Permatex #1 Gasket sealant. It is water resistant, and bonds gaskets to metal. Exactly what I need. Cheaper then the high end silicone stuff. You don't need anything oil or gasoline resistant for this job. Also, I didn't feel comfortable using the higher cost Oil/Gas resistant stuff (like ultra blue) because it didn't say anything about being water resistant.

rp2.jpg

This is more sealant then you should need, comparing it to the old gasket above. I just didn't have an end for my sealant tube.

rp3.jpg


You can either put the sealant on the engine first, then attach the gasket, or put the sealant on the pump with the gasket, then press it on the engine. I did it that way.

13. Bolt that shiny new piece of aluminum to the engine! Water pump bolts are 10mm head and torque to 72-108 in. lbs (8.5-12 Nm). Then install the water pump pulley. 13mm bolts for that.

rp4.jpg


14. Hook up the lower radiator hose and the heater hose. A quick tip here, position a catch bucket underneath the lower radiator hose and point it downwards. This will wash out any little pieces of gasket or grime that might have fallen in, if you didn't stuff it with a rag when you disconnected it.

Also, I put my favorite type of clamp on the heater hose line. A threaded hose clamp. This way you can use a flathead screwdriver or an 8mm socket on it to loosen, instead of the plier type clamp.

Note: If you replaced your heater hose line from the pump to the heater core control valve, make sure to route the hose through the holder near the water pump. I highlighted it below:
rp5.jpg


15. If you replaced the idler pulley like I did, install it now.

rp6.jpg


16. Reinstall serpentine belt. At this point I decided to see if I could install the fan clutch with the serpentine belt on, like the book says I could. My tensioner takes a 1/2" socket to turn.

rp7.jpg


17. Install the fan clutch. It is possible to install the fan clutch with the belt on, you just have to run the 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar behind the belt first. Also, when dropping the fan in, drop it in with the fan shroud at the same time to the clips on the bottom of the radiator:
rp9.jpg


Then bolt the fan shroud to the radiator. Thread the fan clutch nut onto the water pump. Torque 30-100 ft lbs. (41-135 Nm.) with the special wrenches we bought earlier.

rp8.jpg


18. Turn the fan. Check for the fan hitting the shroud. Should be ok unless the clips aren't installed properly at the bottom of the radiator.

rp10.jpg


19. Install the air intake tube. Don't forget the crankcase breather tube by the air flow sensor.

rp11.jpg


20. Top up the coolant. Make sure to clean up ALL spilled antifreeze. It is harmful to animals, and they are attracted to it. I couldn't find my funnels, so I had a bit to clean up.

rp12.jpg


CONGRATULATIONS. You're finished. Start the truck with the radiator cap off, topping up the coolant as needed after the thermostat opens. Also turn your heater on too, so we can bleed the air from the complete cooling system. Run it for a while until it warms up, and check for leaks.

My squealing noise is gone, and so is a little vibration I was experiencing too at certain rpm's. My truck sounds and cools like brand new now.
 




gonzomama

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Ended up doing this project this week. After replacing the radiator due to a crack. The water pump started leaking 2 days later. After having read this thread last weekend I decided to take this project on myself . No sweat It took me a bit about 2 hours. Not bad for a girl! BTW Quite proud of myself can you tell! lol Thanks for the thread it was a huge help not only to have instructions but pictures.
 




YBCold

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how did u get a good picture of the decal for the installation of the serpentine belt. i been trying to snap a photo of the one with the other info on it like the plug gap for anyone whos decal might have fallen off or what not
 




movieguy73

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dont forget to replace the thermostat while your at it.
198F.
 




mechjames

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Ended up doing this project this week. After replacing the radiator due to a crack. The water pump started leaking 2 days later. After having read this thread last weekend I decided to take this project on myself . No sweat It took me a bit about 2 hours. Not bad for a girl! BTW Quite proud of myself can you tell! lol Thanks for the thread it was a huge help not only to have instructions but pictures.

You're welcome. I found it quick and easy as well. I thought it was going to be a longer job because I had never removed a fan clutch before, and it looked tight.

how did u get a good picture of the decal for the installation of the serpentine belt. i been trying to snap a photo of the one with the other info on it like the plug gap for anyone whos decal might have fallen off or what not

I dunno, I just pointed and shooted, I guess my camera has a good auto focus, it's just a cheap pentax.

dont forget to replace the thermostat while your at it.
198F.

I did this last year twice while I was having over heating probelms. Once, and then again after I changed the radiator. It's a good time to do it, fan isn't in the way, and the hoses are already off.
 


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burgundy1994xlt

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Excellent write up. I'll be reading this (again) when I replace my pump this summer.
 




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