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Pillar Pod Power?

2000StreetRod

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Joined
May 26, 2009
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City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
I need ignition controlled and light controlled power sources (12v) for my multipurpose oil gauge http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247990 and A/F ratio meter http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253894 to be mounted on a pillar pod. I planned to trace the wiring behind the passenger compartment fuse panel. However, when I removed the three mounting screws that mount the fuse panel and looked behind it I found a tightly bundled inaccessible wiring harness. I've read a thread on this forum that describes a method of removing a fuse, wrapping a wire around one fuse blade and then reinserting the fuse and wire. I'm looking for a more permanent solution. Can anyone help me?
 



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Power Distribution Box.

Dannyboy, I found your thread when I searched for "fuse panel" before posting but thanks for responding. There are a lot of electrical differences between Gen 1 and Gen 2. You did a nice job designing and building your custom replacement instrument panel but I just want to keep mine and add more instruments.

I've been thinking about the possibility of tapping into the under hood power distribution box for ignition controlled power. The wiring is easily accessible.
 






Get the add-a-fuse piece from autozone, its a fuse, but theres just a wire coming out of it, which is the positive 12v, and then if you want dimming, splice into the ashtray light, thats what I did for my LED cupholder lights
 






thanks, I was thinking you may want to see where I grabbed the power for the gauges as well as the dimmer. That would work for you as well, find the dimmer wire behind your headlight switch for power to the bulb, find a "key on" power source for power to your gauges.
 






Thanks for the ashtray tip!

Get the add-a-fuse piece from autozone, its a fuse, but theres just a wire coming out of it, which is the positive 12v, and then if you want dimming, splice into the ashtray light, thats what I did for my LED cupholder lights

Brian, thanks for the tip on using the ashtray light for a light controlled power source! I didn't know that there was one. I don't smoke and have only driven my Sport at night a few times.

I eliminated the cigarette lighter as an ignition power source for the A/F meter because it is also "hot" when the key is in the "accessory" position. I looked at the add-a-fuse gadget which is like a piggy back. I wouldn't be able to close the cover and I don't like wires on the fuse top side. My problem is finding an easily accessible ignition (start/run only) power source (just a few amps).
 












I am planning the same job this weekend along with a cluster swap to the white faced gauges. I will probably tie into one of the harnesses going to the cluster. There is a post somewhere here that shows the function of the pins for the cluster. There are 3 separate harnesses and each one has a wire for both lights and key-on power. Do a search for "cluster swap" and it should be there. Removing the cluster is easy and it will keep your install neat. Good luck.
 






Thanks 88cougar!

I am planning the same job this weekend along with a cluster swap to the white faced gauges. I will probably tie into one of the harnesses going to the cluster. There is a post somewhere here that shows the function of the pins for the cluster. There are 3 separate harnesses and each one has a wire for both lights and key-on power. Do a search for "cluster swap" and it should be there. Removing the cluster is easy and it will keep your install neat. Good luck.

Thank you so much 88cougar! I searched on "cluster swap" and found the thread you referred to http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248586&highlight=cluster+swap. It shows the three cluster connectors and lists pin, wire color and function. The wire colors should be the same at the passenger kick-panel connectors. I'll probe them to be sure and then use trailer type "quick connects" to tie into power and lighting. I'll add an inline AGC fuse for my added A/F and temperature gauge power connection but not the lighting. I'm so glad I didn't try to tie into the under the hood power distribution box. I knew if I was patient someone would solve my problem. This forum is so helpful!
 






Thanks go to syn for his post. I was looking for hours for a wiring diagram like that. Lets see some pics when you are finished.
 






Alternate source

. . . It shows the three cluster connectors and lists pin, wire color and function. The wire colors should be the same at the passenger kick-panel connectors. . .

Well, it turned out that the passenger kick-panel connectors don't contain ignition controlled power except for the air bag controller which I didn't want to mess with. I removed the lower instrument panel cover below the steering column and the steel reinforcement panel to gain easier access to the ignition switch wiring. The light green/purple wire in the photo below is the ignition controlled 12 volt power.
IgnPwr1.jpg

You can see that I used a trailer type quick connect to add an inline AGC type fuse holder.
Then I routed a loom containing the wires for lighting and ground to an existing opening next to the ashtray as shown below.
LOOM.JPG

Next I removed the ashtray and mount which exposed the dimmer controlled lighting power and ground as shown below.
ASHTRAY1.JPG

I attached the wires from the loom using the trailer type quick connects as shown below.
ASHTRAY2.JPG

Ater testing for good electrical connections I replaced what I had removed.
 






Routing looms

I had to route three looms containing the wiring for the A/F ratio gauge, the mutifunction oil pressure/temperature gauge, and the MAF sensor amplifier richness control. They all came thru the firewall grommet that also passes the speedometer cable. I was able to route them between the pillar and the trim next to the fuse panel as shown below.
BUNDLES.JPG

I continued routing just the wires (to save space) up the pillar and then attached them to an existing cable with ties. Then I routed the ends of the wires thru two holes in the pillar trim and installed the trim. Next I soldered connectors to the wires and attached them to their pillar pod mating connectors as shown below.
CONNECTS.JPG

Then I carefully folded the wires into the pillar pod and attached it to the pillar. The photo below shows the completed installation.
POD1.JPG
 






Routing looms

I had to route three looms containing the wiring for the A/F ratio gauge, the mutifunction oil pressure/temperature gauge, and the MAF sensor amplifier richness control. They all came thru the firewall grommet that also passes the speedometer cable. I was able to route them between the pillar and the trim next to the fuse panel as shown below.
View attachment 56387
I continued routing just the wires (to save space) up the pillar and then attached them to an existing cable with ties. Then I routed the ends of the wires thru two holes in the pillar trim and installed the trim. Next I soldered connectors to the wires and attached them to their pillar pod mating connectors as shown below.
View attachment 56388
Then I carefully folded the wires into the pillar pod and attached it to the pillar. The photo below shows the completed installation.
View attachment 56389


Could you tell me or give me some information on this pillar pod gauge set up you have? Where did you get it? Looking at doing an upgrade on my ‘03 custom. Thanks.
 












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