Pioneer 12's

[explorer93xlt]

I'm thinking of adding 2 12inch pioneer in a hatchback box to my 93 xlt i believe they are 500 each what size amp would u recamend would a 600 watt be plenty ? also how would it sound would it rattle alot? hard or easey to install i have a head unit with 2 RCA pre amp outputs?
thanks in advantce

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Explorer93XLT@yahoo.com

 

[explorer93xlt]

Jonathan they are 4ohms each and handle a max 500watts, i can get a good deal on a 2channel 400 watt califorina amp , do you think 400 watt amp say max 375 would push 2 12's ? or should i go for the 600 watt 2 channel? i think anything over 600 watt's will be too powerfull and strain on the battery? were do i hook the remote up on of the wires in the back of the radio? thanks alot, please post a responce

 

[JTang]

It'll really depend on how much bass you want. It depends if you want enough to just be loud, or so loud that you're rattling the truck. However, yes, 600 watts is a lot, more than most people really want. Even at 150 watts a piece, most people are happy.

If you have a two channel amp you can do two things. One, connect one sub up to each channel for the basic rated 4 ohms of power. The RMS rating on the amp is what you'll basically get. Two, IF the amp is bridgable, you can wire the two subs together so that they create a two ohm load in order to get a little more power from the amp (and run it a little hotter as well). Again, just make sure you note the RMS/continuous power values on the amp, not so much the peak power. You may find that just because you buy a really strong amp, you may not even use that much power from the amp, similar to my case, where I really overbought on my amp, cause I don't crank it anymore. Just at least try and match the RMS/continuous power ratings of the subwoofers first; even the most basic subs will handle 125 watts RMS, as long as they're not really cheap ones under 50 bucks. I'd really say that anywhere around 150 RMS watts per sub, and that's where most people tend to be happy.

Bass isn't always about the amp. It's quite possible to just buy a single, better sub and run it off a two channel amp as well. The sub might have a higher sensitivity, that is play more volume of music per watt of power input, in basic term. There are just a lot of options. Anyway, so to your response, when you're saying 600 watts, you could get one that's 600 RMS, but in most cases, 600 peak is fine. Adding a second sub really only yields an approximate 3 more decibels of sound in general. Theory is 6 db, minus amp power loss at 50%.

Look in the install manual of your radio. It will point out and ID a wire that is referred to as the remote power. Generally, this is ID'd as a blue or light blue wire, I think. Since you have two RCA preouts, it means the radio is ready to have amps connected, so that remote power wire is guaranteed to be there. All you do with that is connect it to the radio, and then connect the other end to the part of the amp that says remote. That's it for that part. If you want, you could also put a small toggle switch in between, so you could override that remote to turn the amp off when you needed, like if you were listening to talk radio or at the drive in and wanted to conserve battery power.

Anything else, you know where to get reach me! Shags2Dope should be able to help too, if he's around.

Jon

 

[MuddeR]

First off do not buy 2 pioneer 12's unles you really dont want to be able to hear when you get older. I have 2 of them and it is almost to loud. I run them with a 760 Coustic Amp. It pushes them hard as mess. It has 280 watts going to each sub and it is to much.

Another thing to think about is the subs take up alot of room you have very little space in the rear. If you carry people with you it will blow their ear drums if you have it cranked up.

What I am going to do is, I am going to buy 1 JL Audio W6 12". I will put it in a Bandpass box and it will take up hardly any room and is easy to move around. It will hit as hard as two pioneer 10's any day with the right amp and a good deck. When you put it in a bandpass box you can throw stuff in the back and not worry about punctureing anything because it is totally enclosed.

I also have a Alpine deck and Infinty Kappa 6 1/2 in the front and rear door. If you dont have aftermarket mids and highs dont worry about trying to hear the music very good. Unless you turn the bass down almost all the way.

I would save the money and buy 1 sub and good amp and bandpass box and good door speakers. Trust me I have been through two sets of subs and you get very tired of the huge amout of bass busting your ears and rattleing things loose in the rear.

Let me know if you need anything answered. I can answer almost anything. My dad is a sound technition. Hope I helped you out.

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[explorer93xlt]

JTang thanks alot i now have a much better understanding of it and i think i'm going to just go witha 400 watt 2 channel amp.
MuddeR i agree with you but i have looked and i can get 2 JBL 12's for 100 bucks or for 120 i can get 2 Pioneer 12's , i know they might be too loud but for 20 bucks more i think its worth it,
the box i have already i baught it from jcwitney for like 50 bucks it alredy has pretty crapy speakers in it so i'm just going to replace them with the new ones, i have grils to cover the speakers so i think (i hope) that will do, also i have seen this Califorina Profile 400 watt 2 channel run cool amp for like 70 bucks with free shiping have u ever herd anything about them do you think its a good deal? its the older models white not blue. well guys thanks for everything i'm final understanding this,

 

[JTang]

The Profile Amps are cool. Again just make sure that you look at the RMS values. There is no regulation on what any amp manufacturers say, so even though it could say 400 watts max, it could just be like 20 watts RMS or something. Also, if you're buying online, just make sure the people are there, because there have been a lot of poor online sellers. The older white Profiles are still good. They're probably running cheaper because they're older, but that by no means that the company has upgraded the amps in anyway. Alot of times it's just upgrading the looks to sell a new product. I mean, they could have done something new, but it seems like technology's so cheap now that it's easy to copy, and everyone is jumping on the bandwagon for audio video stuff, so less research into amps, so not much is really changing for car amps.

The grills, just make sure you put them on really tightly, or they will rattle and sound bad. There are different grills, the smaller thinner the grill bars, the more sound will pass through without the grills impeding it.

 

[Saleen]

You will rattle alot. Trust me I have 3 Rocfkord XLC 12s with a 360watts RMS Persion Power amp and my car rattles bad and it is a 97 model.

 

[explorer93xlt]

JTang thanks alot for everything i now understand what i'm looking for, this is a link to the web page i was talking about that sells the amp http://prodiis2.damark.com/product_display_frame.asp?sku=679220&sourceid=999&ClubSource=88991 its really a great deal i think what do you think???


Saleen
i thought it would rattle but i was hoping not that much even know it rattles does it stil make a 20 foot range of the car shake?? thats all wort it

 

[JTang]

Yeah, that's the one, it runs at 200 watts max per channel and 100 RMS each. For that price, that's a bargain.

I just checked the site. That amp generally runs for about 135 new. Remember, this is a site of refurbished equipment. I've purchased some refurbs before, and nothing has ever gone wrong, but just make sure you know what you're geting into, because if you buy that one year warranty, you're almost as close just to buy a new one. 100 watts to each sub will make the car shake a little, but not too badly. It will be pretty loud though. Sealed boxes play pretty tightly, and it won't boom a lot so that you attract a lot of attention because the inside of your car is so large. If you had a bandpass box in there it would vibrate a lot, and you would hear more from outside.

As for the rattling, well it's of course because all of the plastic panels are rattling. The major culprit is the rear panel tailgate. That's what does most of the rattling, as well as the rear wiper, and the pull down handle, and if you have one, the moonroof. If you want you should sound deaden the rear tailgate panel. That one shakes more than any of the other panels. You can use Dynamat which is expensive, or go cheap, and get some tar/rubber roofing material. The cheap roofing material stuff works EXACTLY the same, you just have to tolerate the tar fumes for about two weeks.