Pitman arm replacement stock height | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Pitman arm replacement stock height

BruceExploder

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 3, 2018
Messages
312
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74
City, State
Edmond OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Eddie Bauer
Is it okay to use a pitman arm designed for a lift without being lifted. I cannot get the pitman arm off and people are saying to just cut it and replace but I cannot find a stock replacement being made anymore for my 93. Part number is f07a-3590-aa.

I can find the skyjacker and other lifted replacement easy I just don't know if it will effect it not being lifted.
 



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It would mess up the geometry and might cause reverse bump steer, if there is such a thing.
But, I’ve driven for decades with a 4” lift and stock pitman, so there’s that.
 






It would mess up the geometry and might cause reverse bump steer, if there is such a thing.
But, I’ve driven for decades with a 4” lift and stock pitman, so there’s that.
Maybe I can find a junkyard one that actually comes off
 












When you say you can’t get the old one off, are you using a puller on it?

Junkyard would be the way to go, no need for a brand new one.
 






When you say you can’t get the old one off, are you using a puller on it?

Junkyard would be the way to go, no need for a brand new one.
Yes. The very end of the puller I can get a wrench on but not a impact or ratchet the tip is hitting the front diff. I'm not sure if I need to take more things apart for room but I was trying to avoid needing an alignment or breaking anything.
 












When you say you can’t get the old one off, are you using a puller on it?

Junkyard would be the way to go, no need for a brand new one.
IMG_20210403_113338999.jpg


This is where I'm at do I need a different size puller? Or am I not doing something correctly to have a good angle on it
 






Ah, I see what you mean about hitting the diff. Can you get an open end wrench on there and turn it bit by bit?
Or maybe a local parts store would have a different puller in the loaner tools?
 






Ah, I see what you mean about hitting the diff. Can you get an open end wrench on there and turn it bit by bit?
I did and it didn't come off it got too tight for me to turn. I'm just going to take the whole steering gear off tomorrow. Got the idler arm off for room and still couldn't get it all the way off so I'm going to leave it attached and get the whole gear down my brain wasn't working I've never messed with suspension beyond the shocks before 😂.
 






Maybe a pickle fork would do it.
 






Yes. The very end of the puller I can get a wrench on but not a impact or ratchet the tip is hitting the front diff. I'm not sure if I need to take more things apart for room but I was trying to avoid needing an alignment or breaking anything.
Use a box wrench wedged against the frame and with another person turn the steering wheel to rotate the pitman shaft in the correct direction to tighten the tool bolt. Do this a couple times, then if possible smack the side of the pitman arm near the spline with a hammer and or a heavy punch/drift.
 






Use a box wrench wedged against the frame and with another person turn the steering wheel to rotate the pitman shaft in the correct direction to tighten the tool bolt. Do this a couple times, then if possible smack the side of the pitman arm near the spline with a hammer and or a heavy punch/drift.
Not really sure why you’re replacing the pitman arm as that is a “non wearing” pitman. Unless the taper is loose or replacing the box (neither of which seems to be the case by the picture) the pitman doesn’t need to come off the box.
 






Good point. Bruce, why are you wanting to remove the pitman in the first place?
 






Good point. Bruce, why are you wanting to remove the pitman in the first place?
To replace the seals. That's power steering fluid that spewed all out the bottom of the pittman arm shaft of the steering gear. Driveway is a mess
 






You know it's crazy to me. I'm not a mechanic but I consider myself pretty handy. I got the water pump off my 5.0 without breaking the bolts I'm working to the timing cover. Just got the spark plugs out my 3v mustang that break off in the engine and only broke one and successfully extracted it. But I sat outside a good 3-4 hours jacking around with that pittman arm and can tell it moved but still couldn't get it off. I just set my focus to my mustang waiting for my plugs and coils from rockauto I been without vehicle for 2 weeks dealing with them all simultaneously needing major work.
 






To replace the seals. That's power steering fluid that spewed all out the bottom of the pittman arm shaft of the steering gear. Driveway is a mess
Okay, makes sense. However, I’d replace the gearbox with a reman before messing with the seals. To many times I’ve seen them leak cause of a worn shaft and the safety aspect of not having PS is too great of a concern to risk. I’m in the heavy duty truck repair business, some use PS for the brakes booster as well, imagine a truck with hard steering and almost no brakes!!

A great product I’ve used to slow/stop ps leaks is Lucas ps stop leak. P/N 10011 qt size. Stopped a leak where the oil poured from the box (needed a bucket under it). It took a while for the leak to almost stop but got to a point where it would leave a spot the size of a quarter when parked.

Advance sells a reman for $170 #27-7516.
I’m sure Rock Auto is less but core charge and return shipping and possible warranty makes buying local better sense.
 






If you need a stock pitman, I’d be happy to see you one for less than the parts store price. Pretty sure I’ve got a stock and 4” drop on the shelf.
 






Might as well just yank the box and try to get the pitman off that way. Mine was hard as hell to remove. I ended up sticking the gearbox in a press and using a combination of banging on a pickle fork and using the pitman arm puller but with a three foot breaker bar. And that was after soaking it for days in Kroil. I think I even took an impact to it a couple of times.
 



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I hate pulling pitman arms on these. I understand your pain. Since the seal is shot anyhow, why not just put a little heat on the arm? You don't have to cherry it, but it might loosen it just enough to get it off. The splines on the steering shaft taper just a bit, so once it starts, it should move pretty easily. If you do get it red hot, I'd not use it again out of consideration for safety.
 






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