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Planning a 5.0 Overhaul


Found this video pretty helpful for assembly the motor.
 



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Question: How in the blue heck do you get the fan clutch off the water pump? Even off the truck with the right wrench I can not get it to turn without the pump spinning.
 






I can't remember which direction the threads are on the V8's. I know on the V6's the threads are reverse of normal (LH).

I had the correct wrench to grab the hex on the clutch, but I didn't have the correct tool to grab the water pump bolts. I believe I used a long flat blade screwdriver (~2ft) with a square shaft) and wedged it in the wp pulley bolts to resist the turning. It worked fine for removal and installation.

You may be better off renting or purchasing the proper tool. I know Oreillys rents the kit.

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another idea I found searching the web:
fan_clutch_53.jpg
 






I haven't needed to replace an explorer fan clutch yet, but on bmws I use a bicycle headset wrench (very thin stamped metal) and just give the wrench a good quick whack in the proper direction with a hammer or small sledge. Might take a few whacks. The momentum transfer does the trick. Done it hundreds of times. Put a bit of antisieze on the threads during installation and give a light tap to tighten.

BK
 






Ok nice! I have a few long pry bars I'll see if that'll fit in there or not first. Another quick question is the best way to reach the bottom bolts on the motor mounts. It seems the front diff. is restricting access to them.
 






I haven't needed to replace an explorer fan clutch yet, but on bmws I use a bicycle headset wrench (very thin stamped metal) and just give the wrench a good quick whack in the proper direction with a hammer or small sledge. Might take a few whacks. The momentum transfer does the trick. Done it hundreds of times. Put a bit of antisieze on the threads during installation and give a light tap to tighten.

BK

I'm replacing the fan blade on the clutch.
 






Very nice and can't wait to see the end result!!!

When you are finished, we need to head to Heartland Park Topeka this Fall for some #'s...
 












Very nice and can't wait to see the end result!!!

When you are finished, we need to head to Heartland Park Topeka this Fall for some #'s...

That was the plan.

And I'll have to double check that with my friend since he put the pistons back in. I do know he checked to see if the new rings were within tolerance. Everything seems to spin freely. It's way tighter than when the motor came out before but it's spinning freely without any weird resistance.
 






Well The GMC fan didn't work so I went back and swapped it out with a metal fan from a '98 5.0 truck. And I rented the clutch tool kit and got the clutch off although it wasn't necessary now lol considering the metal fan I got honestly has a GOOD clutch on it. Oh well, my new water pump , oil sender, and crank sensor came in the mail today. Rockers, studs, and guide plates will be here Friday. Now....If I can get my heads I will literally be a few pennies short so the start up bearing needing longer push-rods and I got enough pTv clearance will be after next Thursday(Pay day). I still gotta get a hold of James for the new tunes. Oh on the valve covers , the new passenger side will a breather filter work the hole in it and then I can run an extended hose across the intake tube over to the oil fill neck nipple? The oil fill will now be on the driver's side.
 






My scorpion 1.65 Rockers, Comp guide plates, and 7/16'' studs came in yesterday. Now all I have to do is wait til payday and try to see if my machinist is done with my heads. After that I can mock the motor up (I have all the gaskets here) and test it. Praying for clearance. Even though this cam has higher lift than any of the off the shelf cams I was almost gonna go with the duration doesn't look Super high. I trust Ed had this in mind when grinding it out for my truck. If I have clearance then the motor can go back in next week after I replace the mounts which I'm not looking forward to. Get a hold of James to revise the tunes and maybe look to firing her up finally sometime the first monday or Tuesday in June. :) It's been a long while since I've driven her and I'm suffering from separation anxiety haha.
 












I essentially told him that everything it did before the overhaul it needs to still be able to do now. So I told him daily Driving manners is a must for long trips, inclement weather, and spirited driving. I'd prefer to have more power down low since it's a heavier vehicle than rev higher with more mid-high end power. I also told him I wanted to stay within the stock RPM band. My cam's power band is from 1700-5500 rpms. The class of Cam I was spec'd for is called a Street Beast cam. It's designed with street-able use in mind.
Plus I thought of it like this. I have a 3V Mustang. It wraps out around 6800 rpms. That's the higher revving between these two so there's no sense of me changing the truck to a Mustang like that. Also a big reason why I didn't want to get too crazy and do a full on Stroker project with it neither with getting ALL new heads , having to get new custom headers, etc. Now I have a feeling the first time I romp into the rejuvenated motor though I'm going to be wanting to ditch the AWD for selectable true 4WD. :D


IMAG0003.jpg
 






Okay guys, I need some suggestions. I got a 2nd transmission cooler I want to hook up here for extra cooling. Where's a good place to mount it at? I know I'm probably gonna have to do some drilling to get it to work but I wanna know what some others on here have done. Here's a pic btw, the 2nd one isn't mounted I just have it sitting there for reference.

IMAG0004.jpg
 






Here are the pictures of my custom tranny coolers installed.

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DSC_0207.jpg


DSC_0209.jpg


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Since my truck didn't come with any extra coolers at all, like the V8 models all did, I had to cut out the plastic grill insert to make the one in the stock location fit. With that said it should come as to no surprise that I had to do the same thing for the extra one I added on the driver's side.
 












I see. It looks like you flipped them upside down? The line openings are on top instead of below. Is that so the coolers aren't blocking airflow from the radiator? This might be something I may have to do later on down the road then. Because right now, my main focus is to get the motor back in and starter. If having a 2nd cooler will inhibit the function of the radiator then I will just have to deal with having one for now until I can come up with a another method to mount it. Hmm....
 






Getting my heads from my machinist by saturday. not only that, we talked and he's going to come up to my house and help with the clay test. He said if for some reason the valves don't clear the pistons he'll be able to notch them himself but believes I should have enough clearance with a 111* separation angle.
 



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