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Please Help with hook up for CEL test

XLT

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 21, 2005
Messages
813
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City, State
Wausau, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Sport SOHC 4X4
I am working on pulling codes from my 93 and i am using these two website as guides.
Website 1
Website 2
I was following the websit #1 on how to hook everything up. I ran a wire from pin 2 to the test connector. and a wire from pin four (4) to the postive battery terminal which i didnt hook up yet. Is this correct? In website #2 they talk about grounding the wire. Both websites seem to give different ways for testing. I want to make sure that i hook everything up right so i dont fry anything. Right now i am confused on what gets hooked up to what. Thanks
 



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Whether you go from STI (single wire) to SIG RET (pin of self-test connector) or to ground shouldn't matter. I've done both.
 






I just ran a wire from pin 2 too STI. and then ran a wire from pin 4 to the postive battery terminal and this just turned the CEL on in the off position. When i turned it to on position the light turned off.
MrShorty; I believe i did it the way you described if only one wire is used which runs from the negative battery termnal to the STI. This got the light to blink and this is what i got
after the fast code and the light blinked like 6 times with a maybe a 2second interval between each blink i finally go these

2
two second delay
5
four second delay
1
two second delay
2
two second delay
5

These numbers dont make a whole lot of sense to me. This was done in KOEO
 






I've never use the paper clip method, I bought a generic code reader from walmart for $20. Makes it much easier, I think??
 






I don't know if a cheap code reader is easier or not, I've never tried one. As I understand it, though, you still have to count flashes/beeps with those, which seems to be the problem here. I have nothing against code readers (other than they cost $20+ rather than the $3 my voltmeter cost me).

As for XLT's test results, here's my best interpretation over the net based solely on his post:

"after the fast code and the light blinked like 6 times with a maybe a 2second interval between each blink i finally go these" Sounds like possibly KOEO 111 (repeated twice). There's no mention of a separator pulse to separate KOEO from continuous memory (CM) codes, but I know it should be there. Then, in CM, we see a 25 - then 125. Like the KOEO code, the CM codes should be repeated, so I would suspect this last 125 was the CM code, we just missed the initial 1 for the first repeat (along with the separator pulse). 125 is a valid CM code for a TPS was out of range.

That's the best I got, can you repeat the test and see if that's what you're getting?
 






Could take it to a local parts shop. Autozone reads codes for free.
 






I did take it to autozone and all they did was give me a metal key. Then they told me the test port was near the floor pedals. So they proved to be little help. They told me they can only test like 96 and newer. I will repeat the test when i get up in the morning. Yeah i wouldnt doubt that i did miss a "one" some where and thought it could be a 125 or 512. Thanks for the info.
 






I haven't done so yet but i will retest it today. I tested my TPS today and it was at 1.03 volts. I set it right a way to .97 volts. When i was at fleet farm i noticed they had a code reader for about 30 bucks which will give me a digital code number on a screen. My check engine light seems to come on and off after driving maybe 10 minutes and after i have driving country or highway. I know i am at 3200 miles on this oil change and this problem happened once before but went away after i got my oil changed. I will be sure to read the codes once more though and report back.
 






wow that 2nd link really confused me.. :confused:
 






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