Poor Idle????

[wyochimneysweep]

have you unhooked the brake booster vacum line to see if your vaccum leak coming from a torn diagram in it?

 

[Joes4x4Ranger]

...I never really understood your hydrolock comment..:scratch:...Did you hydrolock it with the old motor or the new one???

...Thats a shame though...I would have checked the stored codes a.s.a.p. , checked the fuel rail, and probably found out it was a clogged cat, a bad pcm, or something dumb..

..You could post an ad in the classifieds I believe...Good Luck with your sale...

I ment the new motor will hydrolock when I drive the truck into the lake. I have a ScanTool belive me, I've checked for codes half a dozen times. did the cyl balance test. Everything checks out OK. I dont know how to test the PCM on its own. I have a very free flowing "customized" cat.

 

[wyochimneysweep]

check the ground for the ecm?

 

[Joes4x4Ranger]

have you unhooked the brake booster vacum line to see if your vaccum leak coming from a torn diagram in it?

Yea, I even tried the internal vacuum leak test someone else suggested. The last thing I'm going to do before I admit defeat, is get rid of the **** cold air intake and Throttle body and go back to a stock set up.

The intake set up I have on this thing gets so ####ing hot I cant even touch it after driving a few miles. It is a cheap ass thin crome sheetmetal tube sitting on the radiator. The super heated intake air could be the entire problem.

 

[Joes4x4Ranger]

check the ground for the ecm?

Where and how?
This my not mean anything, but I have noticed my voltage gauge is always reading high, way over to "A" on NORMAL. When I turn the A/C on max or the lights on, the needle is in the middle, "R".

 

[wyochimneysweep]

i'm not sure where the ground is on ur year explorer but some of the members should know. hook up a voltage meter and check the output of the alternator if its over 16 volts its could be to much voltage for the ecm also. grounds can cause all kinds of goofy things

 

[Joes4x4Ranger]

PROGRESS!!!!! FINALLY SOME PROGRESS!!!!!!!!!

I replaced the upper intake and got rid of the modified Throttle body. This has made a BIG difference. It idles steady at around 700 now and runs 20* cooler. It still has a little shake but it is WAY better. My upper intake vacuum tree was cross threaded and cracked the intake.

The throttle body was a BKK watanabe I got in the parts forum. It was a jimmy rig chop job on the butterfly shaft. It was not cut well and when put back together the hacked shaft must have scored the bore.

It was dangerous but I used a propane torch. I just cracked it open to get a slow steady flow and moved very very slow around the entire intake system. With carb cleaner and starting fluid the quick blasts did not show the leaks.

 

[Tbars4]

...Congrats on this...

..This is why if you are having a problem, revert to stock...During this process you can eliminate an issue and not even know it...

...If you disconnect your negative battery cable for 15 minutes or so, your computer will revert back to factory settings and may eliminate your other little problems...I take it that you are running with stock equipment now???

 

[wood1]

Glad to hear that you're getting it sorted out... we were all pulling for ya!

 

[Joes4x4Ranger]

Almost all stock. I still need to find a stock air filter box and tube. This will get rid of the HOT air intake I have now, or I might try one of those wraps I've seen to shield the air intake from heat.

I took the probe for my Temp/Compass and ran it into my intake tube. It read 165* after sitting in a parking lot for 5 minutes. This was after a 12 mile drive. During the drive the intake air was 130*-140* after the engine got to temp. WAY too hot. The boneheads that sell that cheap metal tube as a "COLD AIR INTAKE" should have their balls laid on them after a 20 mile drive.