Posi-traction and Gears (street use) | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Posi-traction and Gears (street use)

I need recommendations on gearing ratio (to help "up" the torque) and a good brand and place to buy Limited Slip Differentials (to get rid of embarrassing one tire burnout :(). My truck is my DD and never sees off-road. I have also removed the front diff and gone 2WD.

Also, is the rear diff interchangeable with 4.0 and 5.0 engine/tranny motor. The reason I ask is because the above might be a waste if I decide to upgrade to a 5.0 later on.

A quick search showed old threads. Maybe there's new info since 2003? :D
 



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You have an 8.8 and that is the same in a 6 cyl and V8. What is your present ratio? I changed my stang from 2.73 to 3.55 and it was a nice compromise for a street car.
 






What size tires? I'd get a Detroit trutrac, a gear driven LS.
 






An Eaton four spring posi trac is my favorite. Have it in my 79' Trans Am that lays down just over 500ft-lb. :) Also 4.10 is about as low as you can go and still have decent freeway mileage, and have tons to the ground. Randy's Ring and Pinion is my choice for gears.

http://www.ringpinion.com/
 






A "No Spin" Detroit (not a True Trac or whatever they are called) is what I run. I was really impressed with how well it performed in the rear Chevy 14-bolt that I'm going w/ the same thing on the front Dana 60. And I'm not just talking about off road situations cauz I did put maybe 300 miles of asphalt on my Explorer until I gave up trying to deceive the law. But anyways, if you're making a turn and dont floor the gas, its basically unlocked and you dont hear any ratcheting sound. But stomp on the gas and it goes full lock with tires sounding like 10 sea lions being beaten (off road tires dont squeel, they make more of a roaring sound).

detroit_locker.jpg
 






While I'm a huge advocate of full lockers for any kind of rig that sees dirt, I think a tru-trac is more than adequate for street use.
 






While I'm a huge advocate of full lockers for any kind of rig that sees dirt, I think a tru-trac is more than adequate for street use.
I totally agree -- sorry I didn't mean to make it sound like I'm downplaying the TrueTrac. I mentioned it because there are so many "Detroits" out there that it can get confusing.
 






As wood1 mentioned both the V6 and V8 rear ends are 8.8 and are interchangeable. The only difference is the V8 rear end has tracking bars to prevent axle wrap. But people have run without these tracking bars and haven't noticed any problems. If you really wanted to I guess you could weld the brackets on. But then again you would have to weld the brackets onto the frame as well.
 






Tracking bars? Do you have a picture of this? Does it work when launching the truck forward, preventing wheel hop? Or is this for something else?

A "No Spin" Detroit (not a True Trac or whatever they are called) is what I run. I was really impressed with how well it performed in the rear Chevy 14-bolt that I'm going w/ the same thing on the front Dana 60. And I'm not just talking about off road situations cauz I did put maybe 300 miles of asphalt on my Explorer until I gave up trying to deceive the law. But anyways, if you're making a turn and dont floor the gas, its basically unlocked and you dont hear any ratcheting sound. But stomp on the gas and it goes full lock with tires sounding like 10 sea lions being beaten (off road tires dont squeel, they make more of a roaring sound).

So basically if you drive it normally its an open diff and when floored it becomes LSD? If so, this would be best since you would get the best of both worlds, not losing MPG that goes along the LSD. What would be the cost of this compared to a conventional LSD?
 






When floored, its not an LSD -- an LSD cant positively lock because you can always overcome the clutch in an LSD unit. This is the reason why some people call the "limited slip differential" a "limited grip differential". And I dont think you'd loose MPG with any type of locker because it doesnt take any energy from the drivetrain if you're just driving in the around town or on the highway. As for the cost, its bout $550 for the unit since the Ford 8.8 requires a full carrier swap (not so in a Chevy 14-bolt)
 






Tracking bars? Do you have a picture of this? Does it work when launching the truck forward, preventing wheel hop? Or is this for something else?



So basically if you drive it normally its an open diff and when floored it becomes LSD? If so, this would be best since you would get the best of both worlds, not losing MPG that goes along the LSD. What would be the cost of this compared to a conventional LSD?
No. It's nothing like an open diff. Lockers are clunky and can be cumbersome. While I love mine and drive 1000 miles a month on pavement, I wouldn't have one in a strictly street rig. A locker locks when on the gas and when you're not one side is allowed to ratchet, hit the gas in a corner it will lock and the inside tire will chirp. You're not going to lose any MPG with an LSD. Detroit lockers run in the $550-650 range, the tru-tracs are $50-100 less.
 






I've never driven a true locker, so this might be a stupid question. How does the truck react when floored around the corner? Will the tail end slide out smoothly (drift) or sort of just hop out?

Also, a friend of mine who is a mechanic (mostly work on import cars), he suggested that I weld the gears(?) on both sides of the diff to make it lock permanently. He said this is a common practice and is a good cheap alternative way without going with LSD. He said the only drawback is when turning, I would be squeeling my tires, obviously. Is this a safe alternative? Any thoughts on this?
 






Tracking bars? Do you have a picture of this? Does it work when launching the truck forward, preventing wheel hop? Or is this for something else?

I attached a picture that I borrowed from a thread on replacing shocks so ignore the text. But I quickly circled the tracking bar in yellow. In the picture you can see where it attaches to the axle and the other end attaches to the frame. They help prevent the axle from twisting when under a lot of torque from hard acceleration.
 

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I've never driven a true locker, so this might be a stupid question. How does the truck react when floored around the corner? Will the tail end slide out smoothly (drift) or sort of just hop out?
Whether the vehicle hops or slides smoothly as one powers exiting a corner depends mostly on the tire compound and the surface, but other factors like the suspension, weight split, and so on... play a role in vehicle handling (obviously) in such situations.

Also, a friend of mine who is a mechanic (mostly work on import cars), he suggested that I weld the gears(?) on both sides of the diff to make it lock permanently. He said this is a common practice and is a good cheap alternative way without going with LSD. He said the only drawback is when turning, I would be squeeling my tires, obviously. Is this a safe alternative? Any thoughts on this?
Bad idea -- this might be a good idea for a specialized vehicle (off roading, competition, etc..), but not a daily driver.
 






welding is bad unless you like buying tires and if it breaks your going to have to get the whole carrier to repair or the whole axle. get a lsd from a used 5.0 explorer add a extra steel in it and it will make you happy
 






I've never driven a true locker, so this might be a stupid question. How does the truck react when floored around the corner? Will the tail end slide out smoothly (drift) or sort of just hop out?

Also, a friend of mine who is a mechanic (mostly work on import cars), he suggested that I weld the gears(?) on both sides of the diff to make it lock permanently. He said this is a common practice and is a good cheap alternative way without going with LSD. He said the only drawback is when turning, I would be squeeling my tires, obviously. Is this a safe alternative? Any thoughts on this?

You DO NOT!!!! want to weld the differential on a street truck! I've put about 400 miles on my welded rear axle and it takes some getting used to. EVERY TURN chirps the inner tire. My concrete driveway is covered in black marks from the tires sliding. Parking becomes a challenge because you have to swing wide and turn more gradually to keep from binding the rear end even worse. If I cared about street drivability with this truck, I would be throwing away that carrier and getting a LSD or automatic locker.
 






Also, a friend of mine who is a mechanic (mostly work on import cars), he suggested that I weld the gears(?) on both sides of the diff to make it lock permanently. He said this is a common practice and is a good cheap alternative way without going with LSD. He said the only drawback is when turning, I would be squeeling my tires, obviously. Is this a safe alternative? Any thoughts on this?

DON'T WELD the gears it will hop around corners chew up tires also not safe at all for a street truck. Very bad idea stay away from that one.
 






I meant to add...

Your import mechanic friend said that because that's how most drifters get their 'lockers'. When drifting you want both tires to spin exactly the same, no matter the circumstances, so they weld them.
 






For gear ratio I would say 3.73 or 4.10. I have run both ratios with my V8 and I must say that I prefer the 4:10 for fun/play and the 3.73 for practicality. On the freeway I was running rpms that were high and it was killing my mileage and my ears (drone). So for a daily driver, I switched back to 3.73. I still have the 4.10 axle set though, so I may save it for another project. Sport with 33's anyone? heh.

The acceleration performance isn't all that different between them (seat of the pants), but obviously, there is some. For a diff, I run a stock trac lok. It works great after I replaced the clutch packs. Get something better if you can though. Others have made good suggestions.
 



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For your vehicle, the best combo in the back is probably going to be a set of 4:10 gears with a Eaton/Detroit True Trac http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produ...ducts/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm . Mach 1 guys have been using them with very good results on the road and good results on the drag strip.

However, the true trac under hard throttle in the corner may go to full lock, causing a little bit of a handling issue. If you don't need that much traction, an Eaton LSD kit will work very well for you http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produ...ucts/Products/Differentials/PosiLSD/index.htm . Basically, it's an upgraded version of the Ford Trac-Loc system. Handles well, will give you full power to both wheels, and won't cause any handling issues

You definitely don't want a straight locker for the road. You'll get great straight line traction, but your cornering and handling will suffer.
 






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