Possible broken timing chain | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Possible broken timing chain

Cory Shelton

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Joined
April 29, 2018
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City, State
Anderson missouri
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer
I just changed the oil in my 4.0 sohc and it was idle warming up when it just reved up and died now all it does when I turn the key is spin the belts like it has no compression what is your opinion
 



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I just changed the oil in my 4.0 sohc and it was idle warming up when it just reved up and died now all it does when I turn the key is spin the belts like it has no compression what is your opinion

Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem?
 






Can you see the cam thru your oil filler? If you can have someone turn the engine over while you see if your cam is moving.If you think the timing chain is broken ,I'd take the valve cover off. Good Luck.
 






Can you see the cam thru your oil filler? If you can have someone turn the engine over while you see if your cam is moving.If you think the timing chain is broken ,I'd take the valve cover off. Good Luck.
Yes I can see it moving through the oil cap
 






I'm not too familiar with the sohc. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this engine will chime in. If both cams are turning and it turns over fast like it has no compression Id probably do a compression test on all the cylinders and go from there. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
 






Easiest way to tell would be to pull the intake and valve covers and have a boo. Or run a leak down compression test to check for bent valves. you could pull the oil pan and look for plastic and chain, but the chain wold probably get stuck in the cradle if it did brake and drop. the plastic guides and primary tension spring would fall into the pan,. Was it rattling before at startup, or around 2000 rpm? Did it throw any codes?
 






I think removing the spark plugs (through the fender wells) and doing a compression test would be easier than removing the valve covers, especially on the Job 1 SOHC engine.

If the engine is cranking faster than it used to, you probably have bent valves due to timing chain faliure. Typical death of a SOHC.
 






Problem with a compression test is you need to turn the engine over, and risk bending a valve if it hasn't happened yet, unless you are doing a leak down, in which case there is a chance there is a valve open that will give you a false low.
 






Problem with a compression test is you need to turn the engine over, and risk bending a valve if it hasn't happened yet, unless you are doing a leak down, in which case there is a chance there is a valve open that will give you a false low.

Oh believe me, if the timing chain has jumped or broken the valves are already bent. That's why I asked about the OP's comment regarding how the engine sounded while cranking.
 












It had been rattling for a month

Yeah, once it starts rattling you're living on borrowed time. Our first SOHC (2001 XLT w/unknown mileage) rattled horribly from the day my daughter bought it. Surprisingly it ran for another 40k before it jumped time and we scrapped it. If you're going to save a SOHC it has to be done before the chains jump or break. If you have a particular affection for your truck you can look for a good used engine (Explorer/Mountaineer or Mustang through 2010 long blocks are pretty much all the same, but you'll have to swap over the peripheral pieces from your old engine. The 4x4 engines had a internal balance shaft, where the 2WD's didn't, but that isn't a deal breaker when engine shopping. Personally I wouldn't consider installing a used engine w/out replacing all the timing chain components (which isn't that hard to do while the engine is out of the truck).
 






The bad thing is I bought it 4 years ago and replaced all the timing chains while we had the motor out you should get more then 4 years
 






The bad thing is I bought it 4 years ago and replaced all the timing chains while we had the motor out you should get more then 4 years

You should certainly expect more than 4 years (at least 100k-150k), but IMO these engines are ticking time-bombs. What brand of TC components were installed?
 






I can’t be certain my mechanic ordered them but I loved my explorer until I started finding out about the engine
 






I can’t be certain my mechanic ordered them but I loved my explorer until I started finding out about the engine

I hear you. We've had 4 Explorer/Mountaineer V8's and never had any trouble with the engines in a combined 650,000+ miles. 2 remaining ones are still running great with no signs of giving it up any time soon. Of the 3 SOHC V6's we've had, one had a rebuilt engine from the previous owner (sold it last spring) and 2 of them have had TC problems (one junked, still using one). It happens to all SOHC's eventually. Some start rattling at 75K, some don't see 150k and some can approach 300k.
 






I hear you. We've had 4 Explorer/Mountaineer V8's and never had any trouble with the engines in a combined 650,000+ miles. 2 remaining ones are still running great with no signs of giving it up any time soon. Of the 3 SOHC V6's we've had, one had a rebuilt engine from the previous owner (sold it last spring) and 2 of them have had TC problems (one junked, still using one). It happens to all SOHC's eventually. Some start rattling at 75K, some don't see 150k and some can approach 300k.


I was told you get a used mountaineer motor instead of another 4.0 because they are a better engine but for now I think I’m going to move on and get a different suv but I will get it fixed
 






I was told you get a used mountaineer motor instead of another 4.0 because they are a better engine but for now I think I’m going to move on and get a different suv but I will get it fixed

No, the same exact 4.0L SOHC engine was used in the Mountaineer, Explorer and Mustang. In the days when cars were way less inexpensive, and typically were considered worn out at 100,000 miles, the 4.0L SOHC engine's longevity wouldn't have been unacceptable, but with today's new SUV's running in the mid $30,000+ range (hell the window sticker on my 2001 Eddie Bauer 2WD 5.0L was almost $37,000) and capable of being on the road for upwards of 300,000 miles, the 4.0L SOHC engine falls into the unreliable range. It's not a matter of IF the timing chains will fail, but WHEN. I can't explain why some 4.0L SOHC engines keep going w/out failure for over 200K, but from what I read here, and have personally experienced, most do not. It's not just maintenance and using good quality oil and filters (though maintenance is important for long-life of any engine). Maybe it's that some vehicles that are driven very gently and live longer. IDK. My current 4.0L SOHC (and I'll never own another one) rattles at start-up, unless I pre-oil it by cranking before letting it start, and it has a broken jack-shaft chain tensioner at 200k. I've considered removing the engine for repair, but I'm going to just drive it locally until it dies and then I'll probably look for a used engine, replace the TC components and stick it in. With pre-oiling it hasn't gotten any worse in 20,000 miles. We'll see how far it will go.

I'm all for repairing things when possible, so I encourage you to fix it until it doesn't make sense anymore. Owning older vehicles w/out being able to do your own repairs just doesn't make sense though. Paying to have expensive repairs done (engine/transmission) to a $1500-$2000 vehicle is nuts, because even a relatively minor fender-bender can total it tomorrow. My idiot ex son-in-law bought our '00 AWD Mountaineer for $600, he put $500 worth of parts (+ my labor) into it to make it reliable and he got in 2 accidents with it in 6 months and totaled it. Now it's gone, but (thank God) so is he.
 






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