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possibly Tcase issue? And other issue...

Slicer89

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A little about my rig, It is a 2000 Model. XLT, Automatic, V8 and AWD. It has 163k miles on it.

The issue is, Whenever accelerating it sounds like something is grinding / slipping almost. It stops after about 30mph... And it only does it when accelerating. It's hard to describe.. Like a popping noise? Does it while straight, turned, forwards or backwards. I got up under it and the front drive shaft doesn't appear to have any play in it, And doesn't sound like CV joints.

My other issue is, My O/D Off light is blinking. It seems to have a little trouble shifting from 1st to 2nd, but not bad.. And it only seems to do that when the O/D Off light flashes... if the light is off, it shifts perfect... And even when on the highway (With the light flashing) I can turn the O/D on and off. Rides at around 2400-2500rpm at 70MPH.

The CEL is on, and the code was for an "Output speed sensor" I purchased it, but have yet to replace it (too cold windy, and now snowing!) would this cause the O/D Off light to flash? And it starts after a while of driving, not instantly.

Also, would corroded battery terminals cause this? The battery gauge reads normal, and theres no flickering or anything, and the battery is charging like it should.
 



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drdoom

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That would cause the TCIL flash. There may be a more specific transmission code stored, if your scanner has the capability to read it.
 






Slicer89

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That would cause the TCIL flash. There may be a more specific transmission code stored, if your scanner has the capability to read it.

Nope, Just that one. The CEL light didn't even come on for a while... Then it finally came on as I was leaving the Auto Parts store. So I went back and had them read it, The ONLY code was one for the "Output speed sensor" and that was it.
 






Slicer89

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Update: It snowed a little today, So I took it out.... It really does sound like a gear slipping teeth, or a chain slipping teeth...
 






Slicer89

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So I'm really thinking that my Tcase is shot. Found several AWD ones on eBay. My question is... Are they all the way so long as the vehicle has an automatic and the 5.0 Litre V8? Or are they different between engines / transmissions? I need to know so I order the right one.

Also, Difficult on swapping them out? I need to know if there are any major things I would need to move / replace / check / align etc
 






drdoom

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As long as it is 98 on you're golden. Previous units had the VSS in the rear half, right where the rear driveshaft connects.
 






Slicer89

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As long as it is 98 on you're golden. Previous units had the VSS in the rear half, right where the reare driveshaft connect.

I'm a 2000 model. Does that make a difference? And what is the VSS?
 






drdoom

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For a 2000 you cannot use 95-97. You can used 98-01. That is because of different locations for the vehicle speed sensor.
 






masospaghetti

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I thought he could use an early 1997 model case and just keep the extra speed sensor there to plug the hole, it won't be connected to anything.

The 96 and early 97's came with a different front driveshaft though so you have to get the right one. You have a 6-bolt cup flange, the early ones had a 4-bolt flat flange. You can use the early style if you also take the early style front driveshaft, some prefer the early style because it uses a double-cardan joint instead of the CV joint.

From your description it sounds like the CV joint on your front driveshaft is bad. I think its very unlikely your transfer case chain could stretch enough to slip teeth.
 






Slicer89

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I thought he could use an early 1997 model case and just keep the extra speed sensor there to plug the hole, it won't be connected to anything.

The 96 and early 97's came with a different front driveshaft though so you have to get the right one. You have a 6-bolt cup flange, the early ones had a 4-bolt flat flange. You can use the early style if you also take the early style front driveshaft, some prefer the early style because it uses a double-cardan joint instead of the CV joint.

From your description it sounds like the CV joint on your front driveshaft is bad. I think its very unlikely your transfer case chain could stretch enough to slip teeth.


Would it help to make a video of what it's doing? It's rather difficult to explain in words...
 












drdoom

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Spaghetti I agree with you, I have taken different year cases and configured them as needed. I swap the rear halve instead of leaving the sensor, if possible. And the front output, you can swap that out too. I would open that piece up, and have a look at the bearings and what not.
 






Slicer89

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I'm hoping more people can chime in after I posted the video. I don't want to spend the $130 on a new CV kit if that isn't the issue. I guess it /could be/ because there is a slight vibration at highway speeds (65mph+)

I would convert to the Manual floor shift Tcase, but I like having All wheel drive (Even with the poor MPG) not to mention my fiancee drives it alot and she wouldn't know how to use it I'd imagine.
 






drdoom

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Slice, have you taken a fluid sample yet? Because if you think you are jumping teeth, I believe you would see something in the fluid.
 






Slicer89

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Slice, have you taken a fluid sample yet?

Not yet. Way too much snow on the ground and no garage to work in at the moment. Where would I get a sample? The drain plug, or fill plug?
 






masospaghetti

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You would have to drain the fluid into a pan and take a look, check it for metal shavings, etc.
 






rb142

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I guess it's possible, but it doesn't sound like the CV to me. The sounds isn't right, and the frequency is too fast anyway for the speed of the shaft in that video. It sounds like skipping gear teeth, or maybe a partially engaged park pawl. There isn't much in the tcase either, unless a tooth broke off or something.

Does it change any if you switch modes on the transfer case? You need to isolate the noise more. Get it up off the ground (preferably on a lift, or some really solid stands), and use a stethoscope to isolate where the noise is coming from -- transmission, transfer case, CV, etc. (This can be as simple as a piece of copper tube, which can be long enough to reach under there without you having to be under it at the time.) With a noise that clear and loud, it shouldn't be too hard to find the source. These parts are too expensive to guess at.

Replace the OSS as soon as you can. It should be easy to do. Strange things can happen when those signals go missing. Does the speedometer work right?

As for the codes, the parts store probably only read the engine codes. Did they read the transmission and body codes? Most of those free scans use a basic scanner that can't read the other codes.
 






Slicer89

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I guess it's possible, but it doesn't sound like the CV to me. The sounds isn't right, and the frequency is too fast anyway for the speed of the shaft in that video. It sounds like skipping gear teeth, or maybe a partially engaged park pawl. There isn't much in the tcase either, unless a tooth broke off or something.

Does it change any if you switch modes on the transfer case? You need to isolate the noise more. Get it up off the ground (preferably on a lift, or some really solid stands), and use a stethoscope to isolate where the noise is coming from -- transmission, transfer case, CV, etc. (This can be as simple as a piece of copper tube, which can be long enough to reach under there without you having to be under it at the time.) With a noise that clear and loud, it shouldn't be too hard to find the source. These parts are too expensive to guess at.

Replace the OSS as soon as you can. It should be easy to do. Strange things can happen when those signals go missing. Does the speedometer work right?

As for the codes, the parts store probably only read the engine codes. Did they read the transmission and body codes? Most of those free scans use a basic scanner that can't read the other codes.

Well, Someone mentioned that because it is icy out, The rear wheels are going to spin alot easier than the front (With the more weight) so what probably made it sound that way was the fact the rear tires were spinning faster than the front and slipping. Also, if I may add... It only does this under acceleration and sometimes (Rarely) under braking, And since it's icy... if the ABS kicks on it, does that same noise sometimes as well.

When the snow melts (Probably not until middle / end of next week,) I will see about jacking it up and seeing if I can isolate the noise. As I stated, there is a slight vibration at 65mph+

This is a All Wheel drive model, Not a 4WD model. So there is no selection.

It stops after going about 30-35mph. On Drive surface, It doesn't do it nearly as bad. But it still does it.

Well, Whenever the O/D off Light started flashing, I got it to the nearest Auto parts store to check fluid levels, connections, etc. Everything was fine. The fluid didn't smell or look burnt. It shifted fine, I still was able to turn O/D off with the switch. After I left the parts store, The CEL came on and I took it back to read the code.. And it was throwing the OSS code.
 



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bill06447

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I would first pull the front shaft, check it good, start simple and find the problem before throwing money at parts you might not need.

Bill
 






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