Power door locks

[Buildin!XJ]

I recently purchased a 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 AWD. I've replaced the front exterior door handles because they were very weak. My problem is that I can lock and unlock all doors only from the passenger side or from tailgate switch. I can unlock all doors from the driver side switch but can't lock any of the doors from the driver side I have also replace that switch with the passenger side and get the same result. . With the key out of the ignition using a 12 V test light I have power to the P/Y wire but nothing at the P/G wire. My 12v test light also has the ability to test for grounds, So when I test the P/G wire I have nothing until I press the lock switch and at that time It shows to be grounded. I do have the exterior key pad but I don't know the entry # and I don't have a key fob. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks for any help and I hope I'm posting in the correct place as I'm a new member.

 

[lobo411]

I'm betting you have the same problem I had, and which seems to be an extremely common failure on Fords. When you open the driver's side door, you see a big cylindrical wire connector. There's a circular plastic piece on the top of that. Pop it out, and you'll see a bolt. Loosen the bolt until the wire connector is ready to come apart.

Push the rubber accordion that covers the wires between the car body and the end of the connector. 99% chance you have a broken wire. I actually had two broken wires--they used shockingly thin wire considering how much wear and tear the driver's side wires will take over the years.

 

[Buildin!XJ]

lobo411 Thanks for the reply. Once I take the top off the cylinder and push that boot back what do I do at that point? pull the wires out of the top of the cylinder or pull them out of the rubber boot? Thanks again.

 

[koda2000]

lobo411 Thanks for the reply. Once I take the top off the cylinder and push that boot back what do I do at that point? pull the wires out of the top of the cylinder or pull them out of the rubber boot? Thanks again.

Your looking for broken wires in the boot. I find it easiest to remove the driver's door to get better access (very easy to do with a helper). If you find any broken wires you need to repair them.

Do you also have the keypad on the exterior of the driver's door? if so you may be able to lock all the doors by entering the 5 digit code and (within 3 seconds) pressing the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time. You can also Press the 3/4 button after the code to unlock all the doors.

Does your auto-lock feature work?

 

[Buildin!XJ]

Koda2000 I have the keypad but have no idea what the entry code is.I figured I would wait until I got everything working before I worried about the keypad or key fob, like I said in my op everything works from the pas door and the rear hatch switch.

 

[lobo411]

On mine, the break was between the body and the connector. The "cylinder" is the junction between the wiring in the door and the wiring in the main car body. The "door" side of things doesn't get much wear and tear. All of the wire-movement occurs on the "body" side of things (from the connector into the body).

Once you find the wires that operate the door, just give each a little tug to find the broken ones. Then you can splice in a new bit of wire to allow the wires a little more room to flex. On mine, the break-points were all in the same wire-area: between 1 and 2 inches away from the connector, which is where all the flexing happens.

I have small hands, and I'd say it was moderately difficult for me to manipulate the wires with the door on. If you have big hands, I think Koda's right. It might be easier to remove the door than to try to squeeze your hands in there.

 

[Buildin!XJ]

Koda2000 Just no power at the P/G wire at the drivers door switch. I was just hoping it would be something simple like a seloinoid,LOL

 

[Buildin!XJ]

Koda2000 Just no power at the P/G wire at the drivers door switch. I was just hoping it would be something simple like a solenoid LOL. I have thin hands and long fingers so I hope I can get in there as I Don't have a helper clos by. Thanks again.

 

[Buildin!XJ]

What I don't understand is if the P/G wire is broken why would the door locks work all the way around with the Pas/Hatch switch? But I will look into what you all have had to say. Am I correct in thinking that the P/Y and the P/G wire should have power to both at all times?

 

[lobo411]

This might be helpful.

What I don't understand is if the P/G wire is broken why would the door locks work all the way around with the Pas/Hatch switch? But I will look into what you all have had to say. Am I correct in thinking that the P/Y and the P/G wire should have power to both at all times?

All I know is that I spent more time in a fruitless effort to figure out how the problem works than it took me to find and fix the broken wire. So my advice is not to overthink it!

 

[koda2000]

Your looking for broken wires in the boot. I find it easiest to remove the driver's door to get better access (very easy to do with a helper). If you find any broken wires you need to repair them.

Koda2000 Just no power at the P/G wire at the drivers door switch. I was just hoping it would be something simple like a seloinoid,LOL

The P/G wire goes to the rear cargo/jack compartment where the door lock/unlock relays are. If I remember correctly there is a factory splice on that wire that corrodes and loses contact. The splice is located in the area between the rear driver's side door sill plate and under the rear seat. You can pop the sill plate off with a screw driver and pull the carpet back. You may need to remove some of the factory electrical tape to locate the slice. If it looks corroded, cut it out and solder the wire ends back together (or use a butt connector to joint the 2 ends).

On the subject of the door keypad 5 digit code... It can be found on a large white sticker on a cream colored box located in the driver's side cargo/jack compartment. It's a little difficult to see, but it can be done with a little effort. Sometimes there's a white plastic card with the code located in with your owner's manual.

Here's a video on locating the sticker -

 

[Buildin!XJ]

Thanks for the information Koda, I'll check those out later this afternoon. I wonder if the original code will work if the PO changed the code to a personal code.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for the information Koda, I'll check those out later this afternoon. I wonder if the original code will work if the PO changed the code to a personal code.

It doesn't matter if the PO put in his own code, the factory code will always work.

 

[koda2000]

You may find a wiring diagram helpful. Free wiring diagrams can be found at the link below in the Automotive Reference Center section. I'm taxing my memory, but IIRC there's a pink and yellow wire and and pink and green wire associated with the lock and unlock functions. Both wires go from the master switch back to the relays in the cargo/jack area. I don't recall off hand which wire does which (I think the pink/yellow is the lock wire). Sometimes you can also get a broken wire behind the driver's side kick panel. Normally to activate a relay you activate its ground connection, so perhaps both wires are actually grounds, but I can't be sure of that.

EBSCOhost Login

Login = s8921298
Password = password

 

[Buildin!XJ]

Koda2000 from what the diagram shows P/Y is to lock P/G is unlock. when I test the P/Y wire at the master switch it is positive/hot at all times When I test the P/G it is neutral until I press the switch to lock position and then it becomes a ground. Remember I'm dealing with a no Lock situation only at the master switch. The passenger switch and tailgate switch will lock all the doors as well as the exterior keypad, since you were so generous with your time to help me find the code and now I understand how that works. Thank you so very much for your help.

 

[koda2000]

Koda2000 from what the diagram shows P/Y is to lock P/G is unlock. when I test the P/Y wire at the master switch it is positive/hot at all times When I test the P/G it is neutral until I press the switch to lock position and then it becomes a ground. Remember I'm dealing with a no Lock situation only at the master switch. The passenger switch and tailgate switch will lock all the doors as well as the exterior keypad, since you were so generous with your time to help me find the code and now I understand how that works. Thank you so very much for your help.

Glad to help. Don't forget to check the splices under the rear driver's side door sill plate and carpeting. For some reason having corrosion at those splices is very common. The pink/yellow wire from the master switch is what you should be examining. Link below.

Dead Door Lock Switch Resolved

 

[Buildin!XJ]

I removed the sill plate, what I can't figure out is how to open up the long plastic box that the wires run through that the sill plate snaps onto. I've removed all the electrical tape from the harness where it runs under the back seat and found nothing there. Thanks again I really appreciate you hanging in there with me.

 

[Buildin!XJ]

I removed the sill plate, what I can't figure out is how to open up the long plastic box that the wires run through that the sill plate snaps onto. I've removed all the electrical tape from the harness where it runs under the back seat and found nothing there. Thanks again I really appreciate you hanging in there with me.

I just noticed the link you provided I'm going to go back and see how to snap the conduit open.

 

[Buildin!XJ]

I got the conduit open and found the P/y connector to be solid, Starting on the front door now, this looks like it's going to be a lot if fun. LOL I don't have a helper.

 

[koda2000]

I got the conduit open and found the P/y connector to be solid, Starting on the front door now, this looks like it's going to be a lot if fun. LOL I don't have a helper.

I was really thinking you'd find a corroded splice on the pink/yellow wire. Your symptoms were identical to the link I provided. Do you have a VOM where you can check for continuity on that wire from the switch at least back to the splice, if not the relay? If so I'd do that before removing the door.

I've balanced the door on a piece of 2x4 on top of my floor jack and have managed to take out the four 13mm bolts that hold it on. I DO NOT recommend this method though, as it's fraught with peril... It would really suck to drop your door. Any large trees around that you could throw a rope over a limb and through the opened window to help support the door?