junior426
Active Member
- Joined
- August 3, 2006
- Messages
- 58
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- City, State
- New York
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 XLT
Decided to install a power inverter in my truck for camping and whatever else I might need it for. I decided to go with an 800 watt continuous and 1500 peak model.
Parts Needed:
Inverter
18' Black 4AWG Wire
18' Red 4AWG Wire
1 100 Amp Circuit Breaker
6 4AWG Ring Connectors
1 Dozen Black 6" Zip Ties
2 Feet 2" Diameter Wire Loom
1 Foot Shrink Tube for Wire
3M Double Sided Tape
Appropriate Size Hook Velcro for Inverter
Tools Needed:
Cable Cutter
Razor Knife
7mm & 10mm Sockets
Crimper for 4AWG Wire
Pencil Torch or Lighter
T20 Torx Driver
Assorted Sizes Of Screwdrivers
T50 or T55 Bit
1/2 Impact Gun
The first step before anything is to remove your wire from the package so it will get a chance to warm up and staighten out. This will make it easier to work with later.
Begin by disconnecting your battery using the appropriate sized socket. Next mount your Circuit breaker somewhere close to your battery (preferably within 6"). I chose to use some 3M double sided tape to fasten it to the battery box. Cut a small section of red wire to fit between the circuit breaker and the positive(+) battery post. Strip each end of this small section and crimp a ring connector to each end of the wire. I chose to use heatshrink on the end of my ring connectors for a more professional installation but that is up to you.
Next I stripped one end of each of my long sections of wire and and crimped a ring connector on each. There is a small plastic plug where wires run through the firewall into the cabin. This is located under the dash a little to the left upwards from the brake pedal. Pass each crimped end of your long wires out through this into the engine bay. Route each wire through the engine bay to the appropriate battery terminal. I chose to run the negative cable between the fender and the fuse box, then wrap around the front of the battery to the terminal. For the positive cable I chose to pass it between the battery and the fusebox and then to the circuit breaker from there. I would hold off on making your connections at this time.
Under the dash on the driver side now. Remove the torx screw holding on the E-Brake release handle and the handle should pull off of the mechanism. Then remove the kick panel; it will pull out hard. Also remove the sill plate at this time; it will also pull out hard. Route both wires behind the harness under the kick plate. Under where the sill plate is, you will notice a black square tube; this is a wiring protector channel. Use a screwdriver to pry this channel open. Run the wires inside this channel and snap down the channel cover to secure them.
At this point move the drivers seat all the way forward. From the rear door opening remove the lower seat belt using the Torx bit and impact gun. Proceed by popping of the lower B-Pillar trim panel and rear sill plate. Continue to run the wires to the rear of the car and you will notice a second piece of this wiring channel. Pop up as much as possible and begin routing your wires inside of this channel. You will come to part of this channel where you will no longer be able to progress. At this point use your razor-knife to cut an opening in the cover of the wiring channel for the wires to exit under the rear seat. You will also need to make an opening for the wires by cutting a portion of the rear sill plate. I used a jigsaw to cut this but you could use a razor knife or a dremel to do the same thing.
Then route your wires under the rear seat and flip up the rear drivers seat and into the cargo area. I chose to install my inverter on the floor in the dip behind the center second row seat. I used the hook side of some adhesive velcro to install it. You will need to route your wires to wherever your choose to mount your inverter and cut them to length. Then crimp on your ring connectors and mount them onto your inverter. I also used some plastic wire loom to cover the wires between the rear sill plate and the inverter and fastened them to the seat bracket using zip-ties.
After this make your battery connections and reset your circuit breaker. Start the truck and plug something in to test your inverter. After you have verified the install, reinstall your trim panels and your seat belt bolt. I reccomend using wire loom on areas where your wires may rub. I personally used it on the section of wire between the rear sill plate and under the seat and also a small section on the negative wire where it passes between the fender and the corner of the battery.
Parts Needed:
Inverter
18' Black 4AWG Wire
18' Red 4AWG Wire
1 100 Amp Circuit Breaker
6 4AWG Ring Connectors
1 Dozen Black 6" Zip Ties
2 Feet 2" Diameter Wire Loom
1 Foot Shrink Tube for Wire
3M Double Sided Tape
Appropriate Size Hook Velcro for Inverter
Tools Needed:
Cable Cutter
Razor Knife
7mm & 10mm Sockets
Crimper for 4AWG Wire
Pencil Torch or Lighter
T20 Torx Driver
Assorted Sizes Of Screwdrivers
T50 or T55 Bit
1/2 Impact Gun
The first step before anything is to remove your wire from the package so it will get a chance to warm up and staighten out. This will make it easier to work with later.
Begin by disconnecting your battery using the appropriate sized socket. Next mount your Circuit breaker somewhere close to your battery (preferably within 6"). I chose to use some 3M double sided tape to fasten it to the battery box. Cut a small section of red wire to fit between the circuit breaker and the positive(+) battery post. Strip each end of this small section and crimp a ring connector to each end of the wire. I chose to use heatshrink on the end of my ring connectors for a more professional installation but that is up to you.
Next I stripped one end of each of my long sections of wire and and crimped a ring connector on each. There is a small plastic plug where wires run through the firewall into the cabin. This is located under the dash a little to the left upwards from the brake pedal. Pass each crimped end of your long wires out through this into the engine bay. Route each wire through the engine bay to the appropriate battery terminal. I chose to run the negative cable between the fender and the fuse box, then wrap around the front of the battery to the terminal. For the positive cable I chose to pass it between the battery and the fusebox and then to the circuit breaker from there. I would hold off on making your connections at this time.
Under the dash on the driver side now. Remove the torx screw holding on the E-Brake release handle and the handle should pull off of the mechanism. Then remove the kick panel; it will pull out hard. Also remove the sill plate at this time; it will also pull out hard. Route both wires behind the harness under the kick plate. Under where the sill plate is, you will notice a black square tube; this is a wiring protector channel. Use a screwdriver to pry this channel open. Run the wires inside this channel and snap down the channel cover to secure them.
At this point move the drivers seat all the way forward. From the rear door opening remove the lower seat belt using the Torx bit and impact gun. Proceed by popping of the lower B-Pillar trim panel and rear sill plate. Continue to run the wires to the rear of the car and you will notice a second piece of this wiring channel. Pop up as much as possible and begin routing your wires inside of this channel. You will come to part of this channel where you will no longer be able to progress. At this point use your razor-knife to cut an opening in the cover of the wiring channel for the wires to exit under the rear seat. You will also need to make an opening for the wires by cutting a portion of the rear sill plate. I used a jigsaw to cut this but you could use a razor knife or a dremel to do the same thing.
Then route your wires under the rear seat and flip up the rear drivers seat and into the cargo area. I chose to install my inverter on the floor in the dip behind the center second row seat. I used the hook side of some adhesive velcro to install it. You will need to route your wires to wherever your choose to mount your inverter and cut them to length. Then crimp on your ring connectors and mount them onto your inverter. I also used some plastic wire loom to cover the wires between the rear sill plate and the inverter and fastened them to the seat bracket using zip-ties.
After this make your battery connections and reset your circuit breaker. Start the truck and plug something in to test your inverter. After you have verified the install, reinstall your trim panels and your seat belt bolt. I reccomend using wire loom on areas where your wires may rub. I personally used it on the section of wire between the rear sill plate and under the seat and also a small section on the negative wire where it passes between the fender and the corner of the battery.
