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How to: Power Window Bushing Replacement with Pics

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Ok well I screwed up replaced my bushings but also removed the top side as well in order to "clean out gunk" which of course did not exist have a 93 X front driver window now the motor will not turn. It gets hot like there is current going through but just holds. Please Help.


did you get all the broken pieces of the old bushings out? Cause it sounds like you didn't and its just jammed in place, also, did you window motor work before you took it apart? as in did it make a humming noise(operation sound) but it just didn't move the window up or down.
 


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MrQ

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Ok well I screwed up replaced my bushings but also removed the top side as well in order to "clean out gunk" which of course did not exist have a 93 X front driver window now the motor will not turn. It gets hot like there is current going through but just holds. Please Help.

Loosen the motor housing screws a quarter turn.
 




atownviperman

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I got all the crud out but i took apart the part of it that houses the internal motor pieces. I feel like I fudged up that part. It worked before I took it all apart. after I attempted to get it all back together it just binds inside (or so it sounds)
 




geemoney

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My window motor runs in reverse now!

First off, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. This is one of the best "how-to" threads that I've ever seen in any forum!

Short story: Got the Cardone 42-96 gear and plug replacement kit at O'Reilly Auto Parts. $17.99 + $2.00 core charge.

There was so little gear plug material left in the gear section of the motor that I felt it was necessary to remove the four torx screws and try to remove the worm gear. Boy howdy, was I ever surprised when those springs and brushes popped out. After I'd cleaned the cavities in the motor housing that weren't reachable with the worm gear in place I put everything back together.

Yup, I spent over two hours getting those brushes and springs back in place by using two small screw drivers. I was wishing for a third hand! Anyway, got the motor back together, gears greased, C clip on and reinstalled on the driver's door. Things are definitely looking up.

Then came the time we all look forward to with hope and trepidation. I pressed the up button on the window switch and the window rolled down. What the ????:( Then I pressed the down button and the window rolled up!

I've gone over the disassembly and reassembly of the motor in my mind and can't think of any way that I could have reversed the polarity of the motor. (If that is even the right way to describe the problem) It seems that everything can only go back in one way. The wires that hold the brushes will only allow each brush to be assembled in one spot. The springs that press against the brushes have no effect on motor direction. The motor housing (would this more correctly be called the armature cover?) seemed to be mounted correctly. I'm not sure that it could be spun 180 degrees from the way it was originally mounted. At this point I'm not taking the motor apart to look.

Finally, the power connector to the motor can only be assembled one way. So how on earth could I have reversed the direction that this motor spins?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer!

Chris Glennon
Roswell, GA

Just went to the O'Reilly Auto Parts site and noticed that a 42-91 kit is available in addition to the 42-96 kit. The 42-91 kit has a white large 45 tooth gear while the 42-96 kit has a black 62 tooth large gear. The original gear in the motor was white. I noticed the color difference when swapping out the gears but wasn't too concerned about it. I've already returned the core for the refund. Should I have used the 45 tooth white gear 42-91 kit? If so, is there any way that using the different gear would have any affect on the direction the window travels vis a vis the switch?
 




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First off, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. This is one of the best "how-to" threads that I've ever seen in any forum!

Short story: Got the Cardone 42-96 gear and plug replacement kit at O'Reilly Auto Parts. $17.99 + $2.00 core charge.

There was so little gear plug material left in the gear section of the motor that I felt it was necessary to remove the four torx screws and try to remove the worm gear. Boy howdy, was I ever surprised when those springs and brushes popped out. After I'd cleaned the cavities in the motor housing that weren't reachable with the worm gear in place I put everything back together.

Yup, I spent over two hours getting those brushes and springs back in place by using two small screw drivers. I was wishing for a third hand! Anyway, got the motor back together, gears greased, C clip on and reinstalled on the driver's door. Things are definitely looking up.

Then came the time we all look forward to with hope and trepidation. I pressed the up button on the window switch and the window rolled down. What the ????:( Then I pressed the down button and the window rolled up!

I've gone over the disassembly and reassembly of the motor in my mind and can't think of any way that I could have reversed the polarity of the motor. (If that is even the right way to describe the problem) It seems that everything can only go back in one way. The wires that hold the brushes will only allow each brush to be assembled in one spot. The springs that press against the brushes have no effect on motor direction. The motor housing (would this more correctly be called the armature cover?) seemed to be mounted correctly. I'm not sure that it could be spun 180 degrees from the way it was originally mounted. At this point I'm not taking the motor apart to look.

Finally, the power connector to the motor can only be assembled one way. So how on earth could I have reversed the direction that this motor spins?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer!

Chris Glennon
Roswell, GA

Just went to the O'Reilly Auto Parts site and noticed that a 42-91 kit is available in addition to the 42-96 kit. The 42-91 kit has a white large 45 tooth gear while the 42-96 kit has a black 62 tooth large gear. The original gear in the motor was white. I noticed the color difference when swapping out the gears but wasn't too concerned about it. I've already returned the core for the refund. Should I have used the 45 tooth white gear 42-91 kit? If so, is there any way that using the different gear would have any affect on the direction the window travels vis a vis the switch?

I had this same problem when I did all my windows, it was funny at the time, but the problem was not in the switch, it was in the housing, your going to have to unbolt the 4 screws and turn the housing around 180 and bolt it back up again to get the correct up/down operation. Make sure before you unbolt it this time though, to mark one side with a sharpie so when you turn it, your "markings" don't line up, indicating a 180* turn and not a 360* turn:thumbsup:
 




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I had this same problem when I did all my windows, it was funny at the time, but the problem was not in the switch, it was in the housing, your going to have to unbolt the 4 screws and turn the housing around 180 and bolt it back up again to get the correct up/down operation. Make sure before you unbolt it this time though, to mark one side with a sharpie so when you turn it, your "markings" don't line up, indicating a 180* turn and not a 360* turn:thumbsup:
In other words, the markings will be on opposite sides of each other
 




geemoney

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Window will roll up but not down!

evofro,

Thanks for the tip on rotating the motor housing to get the motor movement synchronized with the switch direction again.

Unfortunately though, I now have a new problem with the same window (driver's door.) Now the window rolls up just as it should. However, when I press the switch to roll the window down it only moves roughly one half inch before stopping. If I release the switch and press it again it may move down another half an inch or it may not move until I press the switch the second time. If I press the switch enough times I can get the window 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down. To say the least this is inconvenient not to mention frustrating.

I thought I had ruined my original motor by disassembling it too many times so I bought a replacement motor at NAPA but the problem remains the same with the NAPA motor installed. After that I went to a local salvage yard and got another master switch for the driver's door. To my great consternation I still have the same problem after installing the replacement switch.

Can anyone offer any insight into what the problem may be now?
 




Tony H

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It sounds like the Window is cocking and binding on the Window slides.
 




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It sounds like the Window is cocking and binding on the Window slides.

yeah, Geemoney, I would remove the door panel and listen for anything binding, and also make sure you have all your electrical connections out of the way of the moving window. Most of the electrical connections will have a holding spot that plugs into the door itself.
 




MrQ

Smokey the clutch is; Missed shift you did
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BTW, if your back windows will go down, but not up, (or visa versa) check the regulator. In the back its two cables. The cables enter the regulator housing with two springs, one on each cable. The spring on the bottom will bind the regulator and the motor. Get some forceps or wire cutters and grab one of the bottom coils and pull it below the holder. This releases the tension when the window goes up.
 




jmn822000

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I [heart] this thread. Ya'll just saved me from spending too damn much on regulators. $8.99 for each package of three at Palmetto Ford in Charleston, SC
 




Brian1

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Just did my front 2 window motors yesterday after Tbars let me know about this thread :thumbsup:

Both motors still had the bushings in one piece however they were deformed with flat spots. I bought the kit on ebay for 2 doors under $10. They were too tight so I had to chuck them up in the lathe on a bolt arbor and take 15 thousandths off each one and they fit perfectly snug.

My front passenger window was causing my problems and I did find a dead spot/small bind in my window regulator when it is about 1/4 down but with the motors rebuilt I think it will be fine.
 




feelgoodjr

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Great Post. I followed it step by step and had no problems. Thanks:D
 




mehedgec

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evofro,

Thanks for the tip on rotating the motor housing to get the motor movement synchronized with the switch direction again.

Unfortunately though, I now have a new problem with the same window (driver's door.) Now the window rolls up just as it should. However, when I press the switch to roll the window down it only moves roughly one half inch before stopping. If I release the switch and press it again it may move down another half an inch or it may not move until I press the switch the second time. If I press the switch enough times I can get the window 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down. To say the least this is inconvenient not to mention frustrating.

I thought I had ruined my original motor by disassembling it too many times so I bought a replacement motor at NAPA but the problem remains the same with the NAPA motor installed. After that I went to a local salvage yard and got another master switch for the driver's door. To my great consternation I still have the same problem after installing the replacement switch.

Can anyone offer any insight into what the problem may be now?
I had the same problem (unfortuneately I took the motor apart thinking that was the problem and put it back together and it didn't work). Replaced the motor to get back to the point you are at. Went to a junkyard and got a new auto-down relay (the little black box that bolts to the inside of the drivers door panel). I swapped them out and its as good as new.
 




geemoney

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I should have mentioned in my earlier post about the window rolling up but not down that I had also tested the motor without integrating it with the window regulator. In other words, I just connected the wiring harness lead to the motor while I held the window motor in my hand. The motor would just start to operate as if rolling down the window but would quickly decelerate to a stop. It worked flawlessly in the up direction. That pretty much eliminates the regulator or misrouted wires as the source of the problem. I just didn't know what else could be causing the problem.

Mehedgec, I think you may be onto something with the suggestion on the auto-down relay. I'm going to head back to Pull-a-Part to get one of those relays. Hopefully that will solve the problem!
 




mehedgec

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I should have mentioned in my earlier post about the window rolling up but not down that I had also tested the motor without integrating it with the window regulator. In other words, I just connected the wiring harness lead to the motor while I held the window motor in my hand. The motor would just start to operate as if rolling down the window but would quickly decelerate to a stop. It worked flawlessly in the up direction. That pretty much eliminates the regulator or misrouted wires as the source of the problem. I just didn't know what else could be causing the problem.

Mehedgec, I think you may be onto something with the suggestion on the auto-down relay. I'm going to head back to Pull-a-Part to get one of those relays. Hopefully that will solve the problem!
I tested mine the exact way with those exact results. Make sure you pop the black case open to make sure it isn't all corroded or broken.

I think the cause of this is, hinge pins wearing down, causing slamming of the door, which causes the screw hole to strip out and make the auto down relay just slam around in the inside of the door. Obviously messing up the circuit.
 




poopjohn

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Ok, this is how the motor housing should be set up, then you have to slide the motor copper wire thing into the hole, then seal it up with the casing, may take a couple tries, but get someone to help. You have to press the springs with the cube things on the front of it. You'll see how it lines up with the springs compressed. Put the rounded end on the opposite side of the springs, then get someone to hold them compressed, and then slide the rod thing into the hole, and make sure the rounded ends are touching the copper rectangles. Then, make sure to hold the rod inplace when you put the case on, because it will pop out of place, because the case is magnetic. Then, plug it up and test it to see if it is correctly placed. Now put it all back together.

asdasddd.png
 




mehedgec

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Ok, this is how the motor housing should be set up, then you have to slide the motor copper wire thing into the hole, then seal it up with the casing, may take a couple tries, but get someone to help. You have to press the springs with the cube things on the front of it. You'll see how it lines up with the springs compressed. Put the rounded end on the opposite side of the springs, then get someone to hold them compressed, and then slide the rod thing into the hole, and make sure the rounded ends are touching the copper rectangles. Then, make sure to hold the rod inplace when you put the case on, because it will pop out of place, because the case is magnetic. Then, plug it up and test it to see if it is correctly placed. Now put it all back together.

asdasddd.png
Its easier than that. The plastic donut like piece thats in the hole where the worm gear goes, pull that out. Hold the brushes in place and slide the donut thing between them. Then push the worm gear end in and the donut shaped piece will be pushed in as you close it up. No need for 2 sets of hands.
 




poopjohn

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Hmmm, didn't think of that. Hopefully, I won't have to, but if my windows go out, I'll remember that lol. I just wanted to post the way it should be set up, because I read some people who thought they broke their motor after taking the magnetic casing off. Took me like ten minutes to figure it out, and I thought I broke it. But, my windows are amazing now. I lubed the shit out of the motor and the railings for the window. I don't want them to go out again.
 


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mehedgec

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Hmmm, didn't think of that. Hopefully, I won't have to, but if my windows go out, I'll remember that lol. I just wanted to post the way it should be set up, because I read some people who thought they broke their motor after taking the magnetic casing off. Took me like ten minutes to figure it out, and I thought I broke it. But, my windows are amazing now. I lubed the shit out of the motor and the railings for the window. I don't want them to go out again.
Mine wouldn't work when I put it back together. hahaha

After I had already bought a motor I realized that the way you put the magnetic end on effects the motor. But I tore it down and put it back together like 8 times, so I had to have put it on right atleast once. Something else musta been messed up.
 




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