How to: - 1992 Power Window Bushing Replacement | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 1992 Power Window Bushing Replacement

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
The passenger window on my '93 just broke yesterday. Guess what I'm doing this weekend???

I repaired the driver's side several years ago. I bought the kit from Napa - it included a new gear and bushings.
 



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This is exactly what I wanted to do. I did not want to use cables in the rear. Just one question...Where did you order the parts from? The track and Motor Assembly? Thank you so much for helping me, Tbars4!!
 






My rear driver side power window is broken. Window cannot be raised manually or electronically. It hits a spot and goes "clunk" and will not go up any further beyond this point when raised manually. I cannot see what it is running into nor can I feel the obstruction. How do I get the window into the raised position so I can secure it shut forever? My E-Mail is: dgraham@pacificmedicalassets.com Doug
 












My 94 driver rear failed a year ago and this fix solution was awsome. My pass rear failed this weekend. This second time it only took me a half hour from start to finish. Thanks for the great info!:D
 






I replaced my drivers window bushings yesterday, very easy fix took about 15 min
 






Ok guys, I didn't read this in here, so I'm just gonna ask about it. Both my front window motors stopped working so I went to change the plugs/bushings. I went and took my drivers window motor off. I took off the top cover, cleaned that out. Then I pulled the other part of the motor off, that has the big screw that turns the gear. Anyways, when I did that two springs came out, and the brush motors had moved around. I'm pretty sure I put the brush motors back in the right place. But I have no idea about those two springs. It seemed to me that they had come from the top of that screw that turns the gears. But I honestly have no idea why they would be there. Any help would be awesome.
 






I avoided that by not touching that top cover thing. I took off the dust shield, re-greased the plastic gear and such and called it a day.
 






Those springs go behind the brushes and hold them against the motor contacts.

Note for future readers: there is no real use for removing the bottom portion if the motor. The part with the brushes. That part is sealed from the part with the worn gear so no plastic bits can get in there. And if removing the round housing cover and replacing the bushings doesn't fix your problem then there us not much you can do but buy a new motor. Removing the motor housing will just frustrate you.
 












Even though this is the '91-94 forum, it is a great guide and I wanted to add some info applicable to my '98 4 door Explorer. When drilling out the hole to access the third power window motor bolt on the rear doors, drilling a 1/2" hole at the dimple is no longer centered over the bolt head. The hole needs to be drilled about 5mm diagonally up and towards the front of the door. This is very near where the metal creases, it may be easier to first drill a small starter hole or punch a new dimple, then come back and enlarge it.
 






I'm doing this today. Unfortunately the price has gone up on those bushings. AZ had them for $8 apiece and Advanced had them for $9. Pretty expensive for some simple bushings, but it still beats the cost a of replacing the motor.
 






I have had to do this with both windows on my 93 eddie B and you dont have to take the speaker out you can just come at it from the other side of the door and take the whole track out it is much eaisier imo.
 






Well I just finished replacing the driver rear. Man was it bad. I first open up the gear housing and all I find is a few pieces of bushing. Nothing like I expected. Then I looked inside the worm gear housing. Big gobs of grease and bushing was shoved into every crick and cranny.

To get it clean I had to pull the motor. Yes those bushings are a pain, but they weren't my real problem. After the motor was reassembled and tested, it wouldn't run. I couldn't figure it out. I took that thing apart 4 or 5 times trying to understand. :scratch:

Then I tried without the motor housing screws and it ran like a scalded cat. It finally dawned on me that the screws were the issue. Apparently if the screws are too tight the the lack of clearance in the housing won't allow the motor to run. Way to go Ford. :rolleyes:

Tomorrow, I'll tackle the other side. BTW, if your back windows will go down, but not up, check the regulator. In the back its two cables. The cables enter the regulator housing with two springs, one on each cable. The spring on the bottom will bind the regulator and the motor. Get some forceps or wire cutters and grab one of the bottom coils and pull it below the holder. This releases the tension when the window goes up.
 






Well I just finished replacing the driver rear. Man was it bad. I first open up the gear housing and all I find is a few pieces of bushing. Nothing like I expected. Then I looked inside the worm gear housing. Big gobs of grease and bushing was shoved into every crick and cranny.

To get it clean I had to pull the motor. Yes those bushings are a pain, but they weren't my real problem. After the motor was reassembled and tested, it wouldn't run. I couldn't figure it out. I took that thing apart 4 or 5 times trying to understand. :scratch:

Then I tried without the motor housing screws and it ran like a scalded cat. It finally dawned on me that the screws were the issue. Apparently if the screws are too tight the the lack of clearance in the housing won't allow the motor to run. Way to go Ford. :rolleyes:

Tomorrow, I'll tackle the other side. BTW, if your back windows will go down, but not up, check the regulator. In the back its two cables. The cables enter the regulator housing with two springs, one on each cable. The spring on the bottom will bind the regulator and the motor. Get some forceps or wire cutters and grab one of the bottom coils and pull it below the holder. This releases the tension when the window goes up.
:thumbsup:
 






I know this post is old. but does anyone have the Part number of the HELP rebuild kit?
 






I got mine at Advance Auto, actually I got none set at Autop Zone b/c AA didn't have four sets on the rack. The guys at desk know what you need.
Its in the help section, I don't remember the number but I believe it was listed in one of the posts , sorry
 















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Ok well I screwed up replaced my bushings but also removed the top side as well in order to "clean out gunk" which of course did not exist have a 93 X front driver window now the motor will not turn. It gets hot like there is current going through but just holds. Please Help.
 






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