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Power Window Bushing Replacement with Pics

trozei123

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer XLT 4x4
So you didnt replace your bushings then?

no, that window was already broken. i had three broken windows. i fixed the first two with the help of this post. the last window i am unsure of because the cable is broken. its not connected to the gear where the motor goes in. any ideas?
 
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peter683

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Oh I see.. sorry I can't help with that.. hope the others on here might be able to? I havent done my windows yet
 
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trozei123

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i wish i had the money to become a member. if i could post a picture, it may be a lot easier to understand. hopefully someone knows what i am refering to. any ideas?
 
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tac

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1992
the way i remember the motor was that the cable was integrated into the assembly.

i would doubt you can change just the cable. maybe im wrong?

i would find a junkyard motor with cable.

would suggest that changing the rubber bushings for steel nuts will put put extra stress on the cable and motor, which may result in breaking something.
\
good luck
 
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TedStryker

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City, State
Rancho Cordova, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer 4x4 Limited
Many thanks to the original thread author and all others who contributed. The info and photos came in very handy yesterday for the removal of the driver's door window motor on my '93 Limited. Once I got that dimple hole drilled, it went quick and easy.

Weird thing though - once I removed the motor, I plugged it back into the electrics and tested it. It seemed to work just fine, running strong and smooth. So, I cleaned and lubed the regulator tracks and re-installed it. After several test cycles, it seemed to work perfectly.

The original symptom was that the window got stuck in the down position. When pressing the "up" button, you could hear a clicking sound in the door, but no apparent motor movement. After taking the interior panel off the door, I tested the connection between the "auto down module" and the motor with a multimeter and found the voltage to be normal, ruling out a bad switch or "auto down module". All wires and connections appeared to be in excellent condition.

So, perhaps the regulator joints and tracks just needed to be cleaned and lubed? Anyhow, many thanks to all for the info. I recently acquired this vehicle, and am sure I'll be using this forum rather often. This Explorer appears to have been cared for extremely well, and I love the way it drives - so I'll want to keep it running for a good long time!

TS
 
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tac

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Many thanks to the original thread author and all others who contributed. The info and photos came in very handy yesterday for the removal of the driver's door window motor on my '93 Limited. Once I got that dimple hole drilled, it went quick and easy.

Weird thing though - once I removed the motor, I plugged it back into the electrics and tested it. It seemed to work just fine, running strong and smooth. So, I cleaned and lubed the regulator tracks and re-installed it. After several test cycles, it seemed to work perfectly.

The original symptom was that the window got stuck in the down position. When pressing the "up" button, you could hear a clicking sound in the door, but no apparent motor movement. After taking the interior panel off the door, I tested the connection between the "auto down module" and the motor with a multimeter and found the voltage to be normal, ruling out a bad switch or "auto down module". All wires and connections appeared to be in excellent condition.

So, perhaps the regulator joints and tracks just needed to be cleaned and lubed? Anyhow, many thanks to all for the info. I recently acquired this vehicle, and am sure I'll be using this forum rather often. This Explorer appears to have been cared for extremely well, and I love the way it drives - so I'll want to keep it running for a good long time!

TS
good luck with that. if no one has changed the bushings since 1993 then there is no way they are whole. for $6.00 i would have changed the bushings. the bushings on my 92 were all disintegrated.
 
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DJ94

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1994 4 Door 4WD
Window problems

The problem I have may be the one you addressed. The motor seems to work but the window doesn't move most of the time. Do the bushings you replaced hold gears in mesh?
 
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tac

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The problem I have may be the one you addressed. The motor seems to work but the window doesn't move most of the time. Do the bushings you replaced hold gears in mesh?


replace the bushings. they are responsible for the driving the gear that rolls up and down your window
 
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DJ94

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1994 4 Door 4WD
Thanks, TAC. I had to look at the photos many times to understand what those bushings do. I used to work on motorcycles and Kawasaki 900s have three balls that go into a part of the transmission as I recall, and you have to spin some parts just so with your fingers to get them to go in. This doesn't look quite that hard though.
I have read all the thread and have to agree that the nylon bushings are most likely superior to metal of any sort, precisely because of the shock absorbing qualities they have versus steel.
 
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jjphdz

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1993 Explorer XLT 4x4
great pictures great advice big help thanks
 
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turboranger91

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Kansas city
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94 Eddie Bauer 4x4
This thread came in very handy this afternoon. 3 of the 4 windows have stopped working over the last year, and I was able to get one of them done today. Went very easy. Going to do the two rear motors next weekend. It'll be nice having all 4 working again.
 
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KEN's Exploder

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1994 4X4 XLT
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data//3914/medium/IMG_6727.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data//3914/medium/IMG_6728.jpg

Thanks for the post saved me a ton of money. Pictures of the debris I removed from one worm gear and gear housing. Repaired three windows that had not worked in years. Worked great with the Dorman bushings found in Help section package in auto parts store. Tight fit but they did finally fit in there with careful alignment and persuasion. This is the first of many projects that has reenforced my will to hang on to the old Exploder! Easily my favorite vehicle I have ever owned.


IMG_6727.jpg
IMG_6728.jpg
 
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OneofMany

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City, State
Georgia Mountains- Talullah Falls
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94 expl 4x4
For the enterprising, you can make your own out of Nylon rod cheaply. The dimensions of the ones in the HELP package are .595 dia and .429 high. 5/8's rod should work nicely. I also seem to recall that the factory buttons are slightly flattened on one side, I think the other post may show that.... the ones in the HELP package are totally round. DAVE did you find you needed to flatten one side a little with sandpaper or anything?

I found some 5/8 bushings at Tractor supply went into the plastic gear fine, but left no space for the drive gear... 5/8 cannot be right- has anyone figured out the proper size? 3/8s?
 
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OneofMany

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94 expl 4x4
The screws to remove the plate on the motor are- or is a t-15. the right tool to unbolt the rear motors is an S-2 bit
 
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KEN's Exploder

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I found some 5/8 bushings at Tractor supply went into the plastic gear fine, but left no space for the drive gear... 5/8 cannot be right- has anyone figured out the proper size? 3/8s?
The package of bushings I have purchased as Dorman HELP part # 74410 has written on the back of the package Diameter: 0.595 inch, Height 0.429 inch. (5/8 is 0.625) (0.595 equals 15.113 mm can't find an easy equivalent size) Go buy the real thing from Dorman. They fit tight but works perfectly when all lined up.

IMG_7507.JPG
 
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OneofMany

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The package of bushings I have purchased as Dorman HELP part # 74410 has written on the back of the package Diameter: 0.595 inch, Height 0.429 inch. (5/8 is 0.625) (0.595 equals 15.113 mm can't find an easy equivalent size) Go buy the real thing from Dorman. They fit tight but works perfectly when all lined up.
Thanks. I got them working using 3/8 bushings from the hardware store. One thing I noticed is that when the bushings fail, the metal drive drops down further than bushings would allow and contacts the inside of the plastic gear resulting in a clack- clack- clack noise when operating the motor. The metal part deforms the plastic where they contact and do not let your new bushings sit all the way down and may provide clearance issues on the rear motors. A Dreml will fix that. Yjos may not be an issue using the Dorman part or if you cut your 3/8 hardware store bushings to size. How tall are the Dorman bushings?
 
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Franks93exp

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1993 ford explorer 4x4 4d
Thanks akot for this write up, just did one motor works flawless, 3 more tomorrow!!
 
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iLoveMyExploder

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1993 Explorer XLT 4X4
my truck needed new bushings in all the motors..... I didn't have the money to buy new bushings- so I made m own from the flexible type of hot glue. works great, and im sure they wont crumble like the plastic ones from the factory
 
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damasodeljr

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94 XLT 4dr
Great thread!!!! both of my rear windows haven't worked in almost 2 years and my front passenger just started acting up, i removed the whole regulator and motor assembly from the passenger's rear and locked it in position, the other one stays half way open all the time for my pup, two year old GSD. Luckly i kept my rear passenger regulator assembly, i opened it up today and same issue, those bushing where completely gone, called my local parts store (O'reilly) and found the "gear rebuilt kit" which has the large plastic gear and the 3 bushings for $18, discount thru my shop, normally retails for $33, now i dont think i need the new gears so i will call around and find just the bushings to fix all of them this weekend
 
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