Power window problems fixed ( with pictures)

[xFatcatx]

99 Sport, 4wd, 4.0 sohc, 105k. Auto windows have been working intermintantly from drivers side controls. They were working with the door closed, but not with the door open. They finally quit working all together. I got some advice in a previous thread about a possible broken wire in the door jam.

I found the broken wire, its the light blue/black stripe wire but really have no idea how to fix it......It also looks as if some of the wires have burn marks on them. There is not much room in there to work, can I take the door off by the taking the 4 hinge bolts off on the door side and have more room? I cant even get the boot back on right now, I have pretty big hands. Also i the last pic, how do I take the that black metal peice off that is covering the wire loom on the floor board? I dont want to break it, but I want to check the wiring through there also as I saw many threads with water damage there.

And lastly, headlight dimmer on the rearview will not turn off sometimes even when in the off postition. Does anyone know if I can just cut that wire on the back of the rearview mirror, or pull a fuse to disconnect it somehow. I dont need it and dont want my sis to come out to a dead battery one of these mornings.

If I need to replace the wire or add wire to it if there is not enough extra in the door jam, what kind of wire do I buy? Sorry total newb. Also I do not know how to sader, but can go buy a sadering gun if someone could give me a quick how to.

Thanks!!!!!!!

 

[speedracer0626]

I would strip the wire back a little and solder it then heat shrink it. that would be my idea. As for the big hands just make some line up marks for the bolts and remove the door so that you can get to the wiring. My friend here says the best and easiest way is to run a new wire starting where it is easiest to get to and ending the same. As for the adding new wire use 12 ga I think ( chime in guys) and silicon spray to help the wire slide right through.

 

[xFatcatx]

Thanks, I took the door off so I can get to it easier now. There is also a Pink wire with green strip that is broken. I am hoping that is the auto door lock which are working intermintantly also right now. Gonna fix both right now.

I am a bit worried about the burn marks on all the wires in there. Is that just from the broken wires sparking maybe? Is it safe or should anything be done? Dont want this catching on fire for my sis while shes driving down the road.

 

[Spdrcer34]

It's more than likely the wires arcing and trying to make contact intermittently.

Inspect all the other wire while you are in there, and fix them all while you have it apart.

Ryan

 

[Turdle]

HA-
did I call it or what?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254164 post 3

Chocolate chip please-for my cookie that is.

I just added a chunk of wire to take some stress off the harness, and make life easier. Solder and shrink tubing is a must

 

[xFatcatx]

HA-
did I call it or what?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254164 post 3

Chocolate chip please-for my cookie that is.

I just added a chunk of wire to take some stress off the harness, and make life easier. Solder and shrink tubing is a must

Yes Turdle thank you for the info. I obv didnt get to it until today, and was to lazy to dig up my older post. The door locks seem to be working great now, not sluggish at all. Is the pink/green wire for the auto door locks?

I am embarrased to say, but I just stripped it back and re-did them for today and used electrical tape. Im sick.... I am going to buy a sadering gun next weekend and some wire and do the job right.

Again, does anyone know how to take that black cover off that my finger is pointing at?

And also I had a hell of a time getting the boot back on in the door jam tha covers the wiring. Is there a trick to this, I couldnt get the back on all the way, its on enugh and my zip tie is very tight on there but I would like to get it on all the way.

Thank again.

 

[CDW6212R]

The black plastic cover on the wires along the inside is "hinged" and snaps into a groove on the inner edge. gently pry it up at any end at the inner edge where it snaps into a groove. Once you get it to let go slightly, it comes right up. No big deal.

Try to use uninsulated crimp butt connectors when joining larger wires. That will allow you to crimp the ends very well, and then you can solder the whole exposed section of wires. Remember to have heat shrink slipped onto the wires before joining them.

I think the main blue/black wire is failing more often because it's the highest current wire in there, and used often. That makes it become brittle far faster, and that suggests the main ground wire is also suspect. Regards,

 

[tberndtson]

Broken wire in door jam

I would strongly suggest taking the few minute few minutes to pull the boot back and checking for broken wires first thing. I wish I would have read this before I purchased a new motor and new switches. By the way, I have a 2003 and the wire on mine is light brown with a blue stripe and it was broken right were it shows in the pics. Another note, to save a good chunk of change look for the replacement parts online (if parts are needed). The main swith (driver side door) was $116 at O'Reily auto parts versus $35 from Amazon, and yes the one from Amazon was brand new.

 

[BradR]

I just did this about 2 weeks ago, I cut the whole boot off, same broken wires that the OP had...

 

[dragomni]

Thanks!

I just wanted shout out a thank you to everyone on this thread. I just had my windows stop working this morning on my 98 Mountaineer, did my research on the interwebs, found this thread and another similar and guess what, broken blue wire between the door and vehicle. Soldered it up and works like a million bucks! Thanks!!

 

[Jason c]

Just fixed the same wire as well as the one that lights up the switches. I never would have thought about taking the door off, until reading this thread. So much easier. Thanks.

 

[smamone]

Having a similar problem with the window not working, found a pinch mark with exposed wire in a black wire in that harness. Passenger side front window works occsionally door open and door closed, not a motor or apparent button issue, any idea what the black wire does in that harness?

 

[bobflood]

Having a similar problem with the window not working, found a pinch mark with exposed wire in a black wire in that harness. Passenger side front window works occsionally door open and door closed, not a motor or apparent button issue, any idea what the black wire does in that harness?

Solid black wire virtually always a ground wire.

 

[crypiehef]

Broken Ground Wire (THANKS!)

Just want to give a huge thanks for the posts in this forum! What a great help. The pictures were a great help. I was having similar problems. Buzzing sound from window motor, door ajar light wouldn't come on unless I opened the door all the way and pushed a bit more open. Window on driver side would go up or down when hitting bumps. Master control switch would work one minute and not the next.

Now, With an electronics background I was pretty sure it was a ground. Thanks to this forum I knew where to look. I opened up the rubber boot between the door and body. Guess what? Sliced ground wire. (Black wire of course). Jointed new 12 gauge wire, soldered the joints, shrink tubed it. Good as gold. Tested and working without any electrical problems for 4 days now.

Thanks again!

-Crypiehef

 

[jimborasco]

Thankful for all the information here!

My wife's 2003 Explorer won't lock the driver's door without using the key. I was a little skittish about her out alone, especially at night, without being able to lock the driver's door without the key. I did a cursory inspection of the wires in the boot and yepper, whadyaknow, broken pink/green wire! :notworthy You all are great! I was afraid it was going to be some big, awful thing to deal with, but I don't see it taking but a few minutes to fix when the weekend comes around again. Thanks to everyone that has taken the time to post information and pictures for this.

 

[kimffloyd]

More Electric Lock Problems

When I started all locking functions worked except the key pad would not work to unlock the doors. Right now none of the lock functions work. Last thing that I did was try to take the bolt out of the top of the black plastic boot in the driver's door jam. It does not seem to want to come out It turns but does not come out. This thread suggests that black plastic boot is easy to get into?? Also sounds like it is easy to take the door off completely? What does mark the bolts for easy replacement mean?

I need some help. Thanks

1998 4wd Eddie v6 4.0 SHOC

 

[bobflood]

When I started all locking functions worked except the key pad would not work to unlock the doors. Right now none of the lock functions work. Last thing that I did was try to take the bolt out of the top of the black plastic boot in the driver's door jam. It does not seem to want to come out It turns but does not come out. This thread suggests that black plastic boot is easy to get into?? Also sounds like it is easy to take the door off completely? What does mark the bolts for easy replacement mean?

I need some help. Thanks

1998 4wd Eddie v6 4.0 SHOC

The bolt is a "capture" bolt. It doesn't come up as you turn it - rather, it pushes the bottom part of the connector down until it disengages. Once the connector is separated, you can straighten our the rubber boot, cut loose the wire tie that holds the boot to the plug, and peel back the boot. With the door on the vehicle it is kind of tight , but workable. If you need more space, you can dismount the door by unbolting it from the hinges. However, it's heavy so you gennerally need two people, and something to support it's weight while you are unbolting/bolting it. Marking the bolts means putting marks on the door and hinge so that you can bolt it back exactly as it come off to preserve it's alignment with the body and latch. Good luck.

 

[kimffloyd]

Door Lock Key Pad Problem

Thank you Bobflood. Perfect info. I got into the rubber boot and found no frayed or broken wires. Put the boot back on and closed the plastic container and the windows etc work again. I am happy.

Key pad combo (factory code) still will not lock the doors. all other locking functions work there is power to the key pad to lock the doors.

Also as long as I am asking, I cannot get the electrical system to go into reset mode to shut off the anti-carjack system. There are two options outlined in the owner's manual. One requires the key pad which will not work and the other uses the driver's door lock switch. Multiple attempts using the door lock switch will not get the system to reset. Any ideas on this?

Thanks again Bobflood

1998 4wd Eddie v6 4.0 SHOC

 

[onefordfan]

Thank you Bobflood, I was looking at the wiring harness that is in the door jam and couldn't figure out how to release the boot. The "capture bolt" was the key to getting the harness out. Once I released the wiring harness, I was able to find the broken wire. Fixed the break and now the windows work like a charm.

Thanks again for the info

 

[ffejb]

313,000 on my 2000 XLT with the 4.0 SOHC V6. Top end re-built at 118,000 due to the oil pump drive wore itself out in the middle of rush hour traffic. Different things wearing out from use. Yesterday the power windows, interior lights, and windshield wiper stopped working. Not good as this is my everyday work vehicle. Checked the wiring harness going into the drivers door for breakage and/or suspicious wire damage. Didn't find anything. Thinking it might be the GEM. Can anyone tell me where that might be located and can it tested in anyway?