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Power window problems fixed ( with pictures)

I have a 1995 4wd 4Dr XLT 4.0L V6. The driver's power window was working fine this morning and just stopped working around mid-day, in the down position of course! I've read all of the posts in this Thread, and have concluded my first action will be to open the wiring harness boot in the driver's door and see if I have any damaged wires. The posts have been very informative and helpful.

We covered the window with clear plastic and duct tape before the threatening rain arrives. I'll tackle this in the light of day. :)

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power windows and wipers not working sometimes but quit working at the same time

Sometimes my power windows quit working and when this happens the wipers also stop. sometimes removing the key and restarting the truck works sometimes it starts working after a dar or two any ideas?
I have almost 200000 miles on it.

this is a great site took the info to local body shop with pics SAVE ME A LOT OF BUCKS wire were broke or nearly broke. I have pics don't know how to enter.

I'm going to look into the boot, but on my 2000 Mounty 5.0, the master switch will roll down all 4 windows but won't roll up the rears. The rear window switches work fine, and the front window switches work fine. Also the autolamps take up to 5 minutes to shut off even when the switch is turned to off...

Sometimes my power windows quit working and when this happens the wipers also stop. sometimes removing the key and restarting the truck works sometimes it starts working after a dar or two any ideas?
I have almost 200000 miles on it.

I had this problem with my 2001 Mounty, I replaced the GEM with a matching one I got off eBay a few weeks ago. No troubles since.

Could this be the cause of a problem with the passenger windows not working? Driver can still operate all windows. Or is it the window lock control needing to be replaced? Thanks

I have had this problem before, had ford fix it (before I knew of this site) and now have the same problem. My drivers window control switch won't work, the lights for the same switches won't work, the speaker goes in and out and the driver side mirror can only control left and down motion (won't go up or right). I opened the boot and found ford fixed it with crimp connectors which corroded and there was another with 3 crimps for 1 wire with about 2 foot extra wire tucked away. I'm just learning to solder so I solder in slack wire for the blue/black wire (corroded crimp), I also took out the 2 foot extra wire for the blue/white wire and solder that. I put back together and noticed a cut in the orange/green wire (or is it pink/green?). I didn't have time for that and half way put together (bolted harness on with boot lose. Ford must of cut the boot and zip it back but I didn't have zips) but everything worked fine, until the next afternoon. The windows wouldn't work again. I went back in and didn't notice anything else wrong (unless it's my solder joints).
My questions are what (or where I can find) the identity of the blue/black wire, blue/white wire and orange/green wire? I seen a blue/black in 1of 3 harness for the drivers door control switches, is this the wire for window control? If so either my solder is bad or I don't know, there was little play in connection to harness. I was able to wiggle the boot and was able to roll window up to just vent it.


The pics above show the 2 wires before I tried to fix/solder. The next 1 is after putting together, I noticed another wire (I thought the heat shrink tube meant flame shrink. I know better now but could that be my problem, I used a lighter to flame shrink the tube, could I of melted my solder joint and break the connection?)

Thanks for any help or direction

I have a similar problem. My windows and lock/unlock switch won't work. The only window that is able to roll down all of them is the drivers door. I tried looking in the boot, but didn't see any broken wires. Does anyone have an idea what's wrong with it?

Im still having issues with my pass front window and illumination dash lights.

Still not saying the two have something to do with each other. Switches sometimes works only when I first turn ignition to run but not start to engage starter.

After I roll the window down, Master switch (drivers front) will not operate it anymore. Only the switch on the pass front will roll it up but not down. Have any of you had these issues?

Oh and Ive replaced the dash computer circuit panel and other electrical. The dash lights worked again but I realized I had two gauges pegged. Took the dash apart and lights out but gauges work.

Where am I getting a short there because before that I replaced everything and the window still wouldn't work. After replacing instrument cluster... the dang window works.

Hopefully unrelated> my front drivers door lock no longer locks when I use my key fab remote & same with any switch inside. Yep dont think its related but maybe the clip that holds the rod broke or popped loose.

Just creepy this Explorer is taking a mind of its own.

Confused? Me too. Please ask questions. I will try to describe the craziness.

I have a 1996 E.B. 5.0 V-8 Explorer AWD. Driver side will only lock the doors, won't unlock anything. All other functions are perfect. I got the replacement harness & panel for the driver side door but I'm unsure how to get a few of the things undone. Any body out there to help guide me?

Hey guys and gals, having similar problems on my 2000 Mountaineer and google directed me to this thread... looks like it might be the same issue, but figured since it will be a couple of days before I get a chance to fix it, I could ask and see what everyone thinks before I start cutting wires.

About a year ago my windows started malfunctioning. I was able to control all the windows from the driver seat panel, but the panels on each of the passenger seats (front and rear) did nothing (couldn't even here the motor trying to work). Still, the windows worked fine from my driver seat... and friends just had to deal with me wielding absolute power over the windows. It was as if the window lock switch had broken in the "locked" position.

About 2 months ago the driver's side window began rolling up and down slower than normal, occasionally getting stuck and needed a little manual help to roll back up... I chalked this up to the cold weather.

Yesterday, it stopped working completely. Now when I hit the Up/Down buttons, no window will roll up or down and you can hear a "tic-toc" noise. all of the other functions work fine- dimmer switch, door lock, etc.... it is only the power window that is malfunctioning.

Does this sound like the same blue wire issue described above? I'm generally ok with working on cars, but not so much the electrical side of it so I wanted to double check with some folks likely more experienced before I started cutting into wires trying to fix the issue.


When the windows move slower, that is usually the internal plastic gear parts going out. Expect to have to replace at least the three main round pucks, about $7 from any parts store help section. I'd say buy those first before pulling the door panel. It will take a while to R&R it the first time, clean out the parts and grease, assemble and add some grease.

The wiring sounds kind of like the master switch, because you still had power reaching it, to work any at all. So for your truck it's a good idea to replace that switch now at the age and with past issues. Those used to be about $55 new, and now I think about $10-$15 in the salvage yards. Try eBay, and note that 99-01 are all green lights, and 95-97 should be blue.

power window dont work

the pass side dont work, i have 12 v at switch red/blue pos and i get 12v on the other 3 wires some times with door open it works sometimes not, this is only the pass door will not work on drivers side either, moter sounds good when working, could switch be bad, thans for any hwlp

When I bought my '99 Mounty none of the windows worked. Thanks to some research on this fine forum I knew it would be a fairly easy to fix broken wire, most likely a ground wire.

When I finally got a chance to track it down (probing and testing with my volt meter), it wasn't a broken wire. Some of the connectors in that huge round plug with 153 wires (only a rough estimate . . .) going through it between the driver's door hinges are corroded away.

I know where to get a tool to remove the corroded pieces of metal but where can I find the correct size needed to replace the inserts? There are two, maybe three different sized connectors in the plug.

I could just splice in a length of wire and bypass the mega-plug but I'm "too much of a pain in the a$$ perfectionist" (my wife's description) to let myself do that.


Hi Dan, I suggest replacing those corroded ends with others from another used truck. I'd find a 95-01 that's in good shape, and open up that connector at the LF door. If those terminal ends look good, cut the needed length of those, and take them to replace yours. The big ones need to be soldered of course, but I'd solder any that it isn't obvious that they are low powered circuits.

Hello, I thought I'd add my experience to the group. My drivers door lock/unlock button and drivers side mirror controls have been inoperative for many a moon now. I decided to finally take a look at the wire bundle this weekend.

Started by taking the drivers door off. Not a bad job at all.

And busted wires are found!

As you can see I had three completely severed wires. I went ahead and spliced in new wire and voila, buttons are back to operational. Thanks EF for the help!

This happened to me today. I don't have any control of my locks, windows and wipers. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet due to the massive amount of rain today. Hopefully it's something not so difficult to fix.

Im having the same problem - I see 92eddie took the door completely off for better access to the wires. Besides removing the bolts what else would I have to do to take the door off?

I had the problem on my "early build" 2002 Explorer that all four power windows stopped working. Turned out it was the black ground wire where the bundle goes from the body into the door. Repairing also fixed the passenger door mirror that had stopped working. You can find an excellent video on how to diagnose and repair broken wires in that area without cutting the boot or removing the door. It is not easy to move the boot out of the way, but it can be done. Hardest part was getting the drivers side "master switch panel" out to get to that last screw to remove the door card. Found you have to pop out the panel below the armrest around the door handle, and then the switch assembly can be pulled forward and up and out. Not quite as easy as shown in the video. Also not a bad idea to search eBay for a used wiring diagram book so you can determine which wires are related to the problem that you are attempting to diagnose and where they are located.

Check out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgpOV1ItBX0

Other good videos on this site. Search for "Realfixesrealfast.com".

Broken wires in the drivers door bundle seem to be one of the many common problems with the 3rd gen Explorer.

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sunroof and windows dome light doesnt work

99 Sport, 4wd, 4.0 sohc, 105k. Auto windows have been working intermintantly from drivers side controls. They were working with the door closed, but not with the door open. They finally quit working all together. I got some advice in a previous thread about a possible broken wire in the door jam.

I found the broken wire, its the light blue/black stripe wire but really have no idea how to fix it......It also looks as if some of the wires have burn marks on them. There is not much room in there to work, can I take the door off by the taking the 4 hinge bolts off on the door side and have more room? I cant even get the boot back on right now, I have pretty big hands. Also i the last pic, how do I take the that black metal peice off that is covering the wire loom on the floor board? I dont want to break it, but I want to check the wiring through there also as I saw many threads with water damage there.

And lastly, headlight dimmer on the rearview will not turn off sometimes even when in the off postition. Does anyone know if I can just cut that wire on the back of the rearview mirror, or pull a fuse to disconnect it somehow. I dont need it and dont want my sis to come out to a dead battery one of these mornings.

If I need to replace the wire or add wire to it if there is not enough extra in the door jam, what kind of wire do I buy? Sorry total newb. Also I do not know how to sader, but can go buy a sadering gun if someone could give me a quick how to.