Power Window Puzzler

[KlimFord]

1991 Eddie Bauer 4x4. Front passenger power window switch quit working. That window operates fine from driver side master switch, which rules out passenger side motor malfunction and, I would think, bad fuse. Installed new switch - didn't work. Unplugged wires from plastic box by front passenger armrest and all tested 12V with multi-meter. Plugged wires directly to new switch - didn't work.

I'm thinking the only thing left to check is where the passenger switch wires connect to the passenger window motor. Before I take off the door panel to do that I wondered if anyone had any other thoughts or suggestions.

 

[allmyEXes]

Do the two back windows work from their own switches?

 

[KlimFord]

Yes, they do. The front passenger is the only window that doesn't work from it's own switch.

 

[allmyEXes]

Ok. That rules out a bad drivers master window control switch...

 

[Roadrunner777]

If you know your way around schematics, this should do the trick, though it's from a '94, so the wire colors might be different, hopefully not!

I think... ok, look at the wires at the passenger window switch.
With the drivers/master switch untouched, you should see ground on White/Yellow stripe, and again on Tan/Light Blue stripe.
In addition, you should see +12V on the Tan/Red stripe wire.

If you do not see ground on both wires, that would suggest a bad drivers/master switch. If you do not see +12V on Tan/Red stripe, that's another page... let me know.

 

[KlimFord]

Hmmm. I want to make sure I am testing these wires properly, There are four wires going into the plastic box: black in the center, yellow/white, yellow and tan (or pink or orange).

Pretend I know very little about testing wiring and tell me on which wires to put the black and red multi-meter probes to find ground and 12V.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Well, Houston... LOL
The colors don't line up. And, what I see is a connector with 10 positions.... Is there another connector going to the plastic box? Do you have keyless entry?

It's looking like the pinouts and colors changed from '91 to '94, which happens, particularly with your special edition.

I'm going to have to come up with a test sequence that will ID the wires. I'll do that tomorrow unless I get called into work. We can do this, it's just going to take some thought.

If you can post some pictures of the plastic box and connector, it would help, maybe!

 

[KlimFord]

Keyless entry . . . I was happy in '91 to get an electric starter!

The diagram I posted is just of the window switch part of the box, there are more wires for the door lock. I'll get some photos today after it warms up a bit.

 

[CDW6212R]

The window motor wires are all grounded at all times except when a switch is pressed in any position. Those eight wires provide the ground path for any choice. The switches do two things at the same time, they cut the path to ground for a motor wire, and direct the power to that one wire. The power for the LF is the blue/black wire, and the power for the rest comes from the master switch, the red/blue wire.

The red/blue wire is controlled by the master switch, the long switch at the back, be sure that is allowing power through it. In one position, the other switches aren't allowed to work, thus the driver controls them all.

That is the basic description of all wire functions for Ford Explorer window motors in 1st/2nd generations.

If the master switch works the window of another door, then that power wire(red/blue) should show power on it at all times when the ignition is on etc. Check that first, at the RF door switch. If power is there, then check the other wires to be sure they are all grounds. Only when the switch is pressed should any of the other wires not show ground. Then one will be power instead of ground, that's the one feeding the motor then.

It sounds like a RF switch issue. Is the function and issue consistent?

 

[KlimFord]

The window motor wires are all grounded at all times except when a switch is pressed in any position.

So, I'm thinking one of the wires going into the box is providing the ground, correct? Which color wire or terminal position is that ground wire?

And, yes, the issue is consistent, RF window does not work from its own switch. Replaced with new switch and still does not work.

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you push the master switch ON/OFF passenger disable switch, is it the same in both positions? That will disable all of the other switches, that's its purpose.

There is no one ground wire going to any of the motors or the doors besides the LF master switch. All motor wires are ground wires running all the way back to the master switch, which is grounded by the one large black wire.

 

[KlimFord]

Did you push the master switch ON/OFF passenger disable switch, is it the same in both positions? That will disable all of the other switches, that's its purpose.

Both rear windows work from their own switches so it appears the Master is not in disable mode.

 

[CDW6212R]

Both rear windows work from their own switches so it appears the Master is not in disable mode.

Very good. Then the red/blue wire in the RF door should test as power at all times with the key on etc. The individual switches should be the same, you can swap them or test with each as needed. I'd try another switch.

How do the terminals look inside the switch panel? Those can work themselves out on rare occasions. If everything seems right, it should be the switch.

 

[KlimFord]

If you can post some pictures of the plastic box and connector, it would help, maybe!

Here's a photo of the RF switch box, lifted up off the armrest and taken from the bottom - door lock wires on left, window on right.

 

[CDW6212R]

I forgot Ford changed wire colors from the earliest Explorers, my 93 had the exact same colors as my 99 when I rebuilt that.

Test the window wires to find the power wire, I'll look at my 99 pictures and see if I can tell which it is.

 

[CDW6212R]

My pictures don't show any of the switch wires close enough to tell color, just the master switch wires that I modified.

But here's the generic picture which is a great tool because it labels each wire on the master switch, colors will be right for the 92ish to 2001 models. The colors listed below may or may not match your RF wire colors.

 

[KlimFord]

OK, hold everything . . . I put the new switch in again, the one that didn't work yesterday, and at first I thought it didn't work, but then the window acted like it wanted to lower so I pushed down on it and it went about 2 inches and got hung up. i pushed down again and the window lowered all the way - and went back up. It now lowers sluggishly every time and gets hung up at 2 inches but continues down with a nudge.

So, switch problem is resolved. Don't know exactly why, I think it's because my Explorer just knew you guys cared. We thank you all for your time and interest.

Now, to conquer the sticking window (maybe the mechanism just needs cleaning and lubricating).

 

[CDW6212R]

If the mileage is typical, it's probably the right time to replace the plastic motor gear pucks. Those get out of shape eventually, and they deform and eventually break up, stopping the motor/window. They run about $7 at the store, and it takes a little while to R&R the motor and clean out the gear section. It takes just a little grease, about half filling it, leave plenty of air space around things in there. The LF usually goes bad first, but they need it eventually.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Awesome!!!

 

[KlimFord]

If the mileage is typical, it's probably the right time to replace the plastic motor gear pucks. Those get out of shape eventually, and they deform and eventually break up, stopping the motor/window.

At more than 210K miles it might be time. Maybe that will fix the hangup. Thanks for the tip.