Preparation for SAS in 1999 Sport | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Preparation for SAS in 1999 Sport

Take it from me--
you are in the axle buying phase now. Do not settle for a low pinion axle from an early bronco. You will want the high pinion later. I am there now.
 



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Take it from me--
you are in the axle buying phase now. Do not settle for a low pinion axle from an early bronco. You will want the high pinion later. I am there now.

What are your reasons for this....other then the obvious? I am not looking to make this an extreme rock crawler, I just want to have a trail ready vehicle that I wont mind running through the trees because I won't be doing this with my truck anymore :D:D:D

2005DodgeCummins3.jpg
 






So I'm assuming that it is out of an early Bronco. $200 is a damn good price for everything....

unless it's a high pinion, then it is not out of an EB, and has been cut down.

in which case, it might have custom inner axle shafts; unless it was cut down just right for Wagoneer or EB axle shafts.

bigger question; is it disc or drum brakes?
8 or 5 lug?
 






Let's just wait and see until he physically gets the axle - most of the questions wil be answered then ;)
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Let's just wait and see until he physically gets the axle - most of the questions wil be answered then ;)
Posted via Mobile Device

Agreed. Either way, $200 will not be that big of a mistake if it's not the axle I want. The pictures do show discs.

axles.jpg


axles2.jpg
 












So if this axle is truely a HP, it means that it has been chopped right?

yes.
Wagoneers had a HP D44 also, with disc brakes I believe and roughly 60 WMS to WMS, but I think those were passenger side drop. Also would have a different lug pattern, iirc.

although I could be wrong...

chances are it's a shortened HP axle. And from the picture, it looks like it's HP; although the pic is pretty small, so hard to tell for sure.
 












So I have "learned" that if this axle is a LP, that I will hate it and not get what I am looking for. So after some further research, this is what I have found and will be looking at this axle also tomorrow:

"I have a Dana 44 drivers side drop, high pinion complete axle. Has a rebuild kit, high steer arms, 4.10's and a Detroit locker. I was going to put it in my TJ but I have a CJ that I'm building instead. Every thing has been sand blasted, cleaned and painted. I turned the rotors and got all new bearings for it. I'm telling you its ready to go. The only thing I didnt do yet was new brake pads, ball joints, or axle joints but the old ones seem fine (I was gonna run them). I also have the radius arms for it with decent bushings in them. The radius arms basically give you a long arm set up on a Jeep, will have to build a bracket for them to go on, but I've seen the build on other Jeeps and it works really well. It is out of a early Ford F-100 or Bronco or something like that."

He wants $700.00 for it. Thoughts or suggestions? No pictures were available.
 






Those radius arms are not "long arm" for these trucks. They do make extended RAs, but they're pricey. The high steer knuckle will be beneficial for your steering design. Sounds like a great deal though, if he really is including all those parts.
 






OEM radius arms from a full size, are darn near the same length as extended radius arms for an RBV.

That is most likely what the seller meant, since he said "basically give you a long arm setup on a Jeep."

But, if it's out of an F100 or Bronco, it's going to be full-width (since he stated one of those 2), which is, iirc, around 68" WMS to WMS?

Unless he has already shortened it; which does not seem to be stated.
 






OEM radius arms from a full size, are darn near the same length as extended radius arms for an RBV.

That is most likely what the seller meant, since he said "basically give you a long arm setup on a Jeep."

But, if it's out of an F100 or Bronco, it's going to be full-width (since he stated one of those 2), which is, iirc, around 68" WMS to WMS?

Unless he has already shortened it; which does not seem to be stated.

I spoke with him on the phone and he said that he recalls measuring the center to centor of the ball joints, could remember for sure, but recalls 53" for some reason. He said when he gets home that he will give me that measurement. Sounds like the shorty.
 






I spoke with him on the phone and he said that he recalls measuring the center to centor of the ball joints, could remember for sure, but recalls 53" for some reason. He said when he gets home that he will give me that measurement. Sounds like the shorty.

sounds about right for EB-size. Must have been cut down to size already then if that measurement is correct (or close).
 






I will be getting the axle this weekend. I spoke with the owner a few times and he is putting it all together for me. Has an extra set of Warn hubs he is giving me. Anyone interested in the Detroit locker? It will be for sale soon. The gears will be going too. Getting anxious. Who provides the best quality heim joints? I will need to do a new steering box....which one? I am hoping this project will only take 2 months with all of the parts present.
 






I just got home with it! Going to have to shorten it though, it is almost 68" wheel face to wheel face. Here are some pictures for you guys. Got everything for $650 with the Detroit locker and 4.10's. Tell me what you think.....:D:D:D

DSC00067.jpg


DSC00068.jpg


DSC00069.jpg


DSC00070.jpg
 






Now I have been rolling this thing around in the garage and kind of visualizing how I am going to do this. I need to shorten this axle to the length of on EB length so that I don't have to get custom shafts built. Can I shorten the axle from the pumpkin side by removing the axle tubes and then re-welding, or do I HAVE to do it as stated in the link below:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm

I just thought that it would be easier to do it from the pumpkin side by drilling out the plug welds, cutting the axled tube to the desired lenght and then re-welding the tube back to the pumpkin and fill the factory plug welds. Any input would be great.
 






congrats on the official start. the link you posted is the correct way. your way will work, but you will loose strength. Reason being that you're heating already welded areas, which fatigues the metal. Thats not something you want in the already thin hp dana 44. Why don't you want to go full width? I crunched the numbers, and i actually saved money getting a used f150 axle, rather than getting my 44 narrowed.
 






I have thrown the full length option around quite a bit, but dont want to have to do a 9" and all new gears, lockers, bearing, etc. In order to get the stock 8.8 to work, i would have to add extremely large wheel spacers....right? Also, by going full width how much harder is it to get the coils in line with where they need to be on the frame? They will be located much wider...correct?
 






those c-wedges are cast, so you will have to space the coil buckets out ~3" per side.
as for getting the rear to match; yeah, you won't wanna use spacers.

and don't forget that you'll also have two different bolt patterns for wheels.

would probably be easier (probably cheaper too) to get a full-width 8.8
 



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Because the C wedges are cast, they are still removable right? I am looking at it and weighing out the full length option or choppin it.
 






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