Prepping for clearcoat...........

Hey guys, I have some questions on paint prep before the clearcoat.
I am painting my bumpers black (currently gray). I sanded the gray, to rough it up, and wiped it down to remove all the dust and have got the black coats laid down. I am just using rattlecan gloss black. I know I will not get the depth or shine of a professional paint job.

1) Do I need to do to anything to the black before I coat it with clearcoat??

2) Is there any way to make the black have more depth or shine, before I clearcoat??

3) How many coats of clear should I put on??

4) Is there anything I should do between, or after, clearcoats (wetsand) to make it shinier??

Thanx guys.

 

['96explorereddiebauer]

I'm not the best painter in the world. Monmix, you work in a body shop, you should reply. But anyways...this is how I'm gonna go at it.

1. Yes, you do have to do something before clearcoating. You should rough it up with a 1000 or 1500 grit sandpaper first before spraying clear on.

2. There's no need to do that because you're gonna put a few coats of clears on.

3. You can put as many coats as you please. But my reccomendation is somewhere around 3 or 4 coats. I'm reccommendaing that many is because you'll be sanding a thin top part of the paint off so you can polish and wax it to a brilliant shine.

4. You don't have to do anything in between coats. But remember, keep the painting surface very clean and clear of dust because once it's painted, they will stay on there forever. Use a tack cloth to pick up all the dust off the surface.

Afterwards, let the paint dry. Then wetsand starting with 1000 grit sandpaper. Then move to 1500 and finish with a 2000 or 2500 grit. The paint now should be mirror smooth but dull looking.

Now...get a buffer or an orbital polisher such as Porter Cable's 7332 or 7424 and some swirl mark remover. Either Maguiar's 9.0 or 3M's SMR will work. Put them on the pad and let the buffer do it's job. Work in a small area so you can see your progress. Then after that, you should see a mirror smooth shine and feel.

I know this is quite long. I'm sorry. I wish you luck and remember snap some pics of before and after!!! Please don't hesitate sending me a PM if you have questions.

 

[MONMIX]

it all sounds good to me other than the ingrediants.
Where are you getting your clear from ?
Rattle can also ? Just follow the instructions on the can if so. Also, don't rough up the black before you clear.
You'll see all the scraches.

Sad thing is 96eb is I just do the body work. I don't know much on paint.

 

[Skyhiranger1]

Yea, I know it's not going to be high quality.

Yes, rattlecan clear.
I noticed some clearcoat cans say "crystal clear" is there a difference?? If so, can the non-crystal clear be polished to make it "crystal clear"??? Don't they make different "types" of clearcoat? I thought I saw some that had different "bases" (if that's the right word) like acrylic, lacquer, etc. What type should I use to cover the black enamel with???

That's what I thought, on roughing up the black coat.

thanx.

 

[Perry]

Most of the time the rattle cans will tell you to use there brand of clears which is a good deal since sometimes the will react.
I feel the only way of getting a good paint job is using supplies such as Dupont, PPG, etc.
Just do the best you can with the rattle can.

 

[Glacier991]

I cannot comment on using rattle can clears over rattle can paint, other than to say I'd not rough up the base coat.

I shoot PPG products exclusively, and the base coat is not shiny, is what they call a 2K product (eg it's catalyzed) and you allow the base to dry for a minimum time (and there's a max time between recoats too). It dries more or less flat. Then, without anything done to the base, you add the clear topcoat in one or two coats. It chemically bonds with the basecoat and forms a unitary layer of paint. That is the "truest" nature of a BC/CC system, regardless of who makes it.

I'm guessing with the rattle can you are not using a catalyzed system (almost by definition that's impossible with rattle can). I'd try and at least follow up with the clear during a recoat time as expressed on the can of base (eg. 30 mins or whatever) to TRY and get them to bond.

Hope this helps.

Happy Exploring

Chris

 

[Skyhiranger1]

I finally got some pics up of my painting job (and a few other pics).
Thanx guys for the advice.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/499475

 

[MattStarr]

Originally posted by Skyhiranger1
I finally got some pics up of my painting job (and a few other pics).
Thanx guys for the advice.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/499475

Very nice job, awesome truck too... I just have a suggestion... do you really like that pinstripe?? Would you ever think about taking it off?

 

[Skyhiranger1]

Originally posted by MattStarr
Very nice job, awesome truck too... I just have a suggestion... do you really like that pinstripe?? Would you ever think about taking it off?

Actually I have thought about removing it. I already removed half of it (the other half was PINK!!!!!). But I kinda like the purple on black. It is starting to loosen around the edges a little. So when it starts to peel...off it comes.

 

[MattStarr]

Originally posted by Skyhiranger1
Actually I have thought about removing it. I already removed half of it (the other half was PINK!!!!!). But I kinda like the purple on black. It is starting to loosen around the edges a little. So when it starts to peel...off it comes.

Thats cool, Im not saying it looks bad, Ive got the pinstripe still on mine, I just think yours would look better without the purple

 

[hydroxy]

did anyone pick up on the fact that primer wasn't used?......