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Problem and solution with bleed clutch.

jm_vg

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The last weekend I have bleed the system of clutch, but I had problems . I followed the instructions of Chilton's book, but was the very soft clutch pedal, like sponge and the shift did not engage. The problem was that always an airlock continued to be the inside of the system, specifically in the master clutch cylinder. The solution was to withdraw the master cylinder of its original position, freeing it from the clutch pedal, and at a later time, to invert it of position, that is, to leave it to the reverse. Therefore, it was pumped from the floor ( under the automobile ) up. That way you could free the airlocks that were trapped in the master cylinder. This operation I accomplished it with my father three continuous times, opening and closing the screw of bleeding. Finally, that was the solution, the shift engage perfectly..!....Now, I'm thinking buy a Break Bleeder & Vacuum Pump kit...Somebody bought it or used?....Your opinions please !! :cool:
 


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blacksun_redux

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This guy is right.

This guy is right. I signed up just so I could confirm this and others can read it.

This describes a way to get more air out of the clutch hydraulic line when bleeding the clutch. We were working on a 1995 Ford Explorer and I can't speak for other models.

Basically, you don't want to have air stuck in your master cylinder. And if you follow the Chitlens manual, or whatever it's called, you will end up with just that. (Nice of them isn't it?)

So, the best thing is to Bench Bleed the master cylinder BEFORE you install it.

But if you had done that, you would not be reading this. So, remove the electronic housing next to the master cylinder reservoir so you can reach down to the master cylinder. Remove and peel back the rubber shield behind the left front tire. The fasteners come out if you just carefully pull on them. You don't have to remove the plastic housing, just about half of the rubber one in order to reach up towards the master cylinder.

Now, just follow the manual to remove the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and firewall. If you don't have the book basically, pry down the tabs on the little black snap in fastener at the end of the MC push rod in order to release it from the clutch pedal. Remove the plastic housing for the electronic clutch engagement sensor or whatever it is. Now the MC puch rod is free inside the cab. From next to the MC fluid resivroir, reach down and turn the MC 45 degrees clockwise to release it from the fastener inside. Now pull it out and position it upside down so that the rod faces down and the hoses are on top.

Now this is the key. Bubbles were trapped inside because some genius designed the mount that way. Have one person on top firmly hold the top of the unit, while another person comes in from the hole behind the wheel and pushes up on the MC push rod. Push slowly and let it out slowly. You should start to see bubble in the MC reservoir. Do this 5-8 times or until you don't see any more bubbles. Now Wait 15 minutes or more. Go do something else. Have some beer. If you come back and try again, you should get more bubbles out. Do this until it's really hard to push the rod in at all.

Now reverse the steps. Make sure the MC is seated correctly on the fastener inside before trying to rotate 45 degrees counter-clockwise to lock it in place. Attach everything back up.

Bleed the system again per the manual.

That's it.

If you are lucky it works. If you have good clutch pressure (somewhat hard to push down the pedal) but still cannot shift right, but have just replaced the master cylinder, then the slave cylinder is probably shot. Which is what just happened to us.

keywords- ford explorer 1995 '95 clutch master slave bleed bleeding cylinder air line sonnova-b
 




HahnsB2

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Easiest way to bleed the clutch I've found is to get a 2oz Syringe, remove the hose from the reservoir and attach it to the syringe, fill with fluid, open bleeder and force the fluid down, works first time, every time, even with a brand new dry master cylinder.
 




Ford-man1

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Hey guys I have a 1993 explorer sport and i replaced the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, but i cant get it to bleed no matter what. I tried to bench bleed it but not really sure on how I sould position the it when I bench bleed it. I have no pedle at all.
 




toetagandrew

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Same damn problem my self
 




troy11556

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if your having problems bleeding the clutch system buy the bleeder pump to attach to it to bleed it.
 




Arkman

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Bleed with syringe? Hope it works!

Easiest way to bleed the clutch I've found is to get a 2oz Syringe, remove the hose from the reservoir and attach it to the syringe, fill with fluid, open bleeder and force the fluid down, works first time, every time, even with a brand new dry master cylinder.
 




jm_vg

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Hey guys...My brother and dad solved the problem of the clutch for me!!...They did the typical procedure described in the previous threads, but however, when all layout was and ready, the clutch continued hard and the shift did not engage. What was happening ?...My brother became aware of a small looseness that was having the clutch's pedal, when this was pressed. He extracted the pedal, dismounting it, and the he saw that the axle had a great looseness within the framework where it go inserted.
My brother mended that looseness adding abundant epoxy putty and placing a pipe PVC (1 " diam ) at the sector where the clutch pedal goes placed. He assembled everything again and the system of clutch and gear shift have worked correctly. No more problems !!!....I have attached photos...
 

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BonesDT

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Of course!!! I have never had a problem bleeding the clutch, and then I read all these issues with Ex/Rangers and NOW I'm having a problem.

I removed the Master and turned it upside down, but it seems impossibly hard to push the piston in. Pushing any harder feels like I'm going to break something.

I need it fixed by Friday morning and I can't risk breaking anything. I see people have vacuum bled with no luck too, but I can see how that doesn't still doesn't solve the problem if the Master is still in it's normal position.

I read this article:
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/PDF/v12-205-manual-excerpts.pdf
(BTW, I love how it says "Difficult Systems i.e. [that is] Ford Ranger/Explorer" and not "Difficult Systems e.g. for example Ford Ranger/Explorer", implying only Rangers/Exs have difficult systems.)

...but it's not clear what the procedure is when you remove the Master.

Here's my idea:
Remove the Master from the firewall (this really isn't that hard). Turn it upside down. Vacuum Bleed from the slave. Reinstall Master. Pump Bleed a few times for S***s & giggles.

Shouldn't this work perfectly?
 




clackkent

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This guy is right. I signed up just so I could confirm this and others can read it.

This describes a way to get more air out of the clutch hydraulic line when bleeding the clutch. We were working on a 1995 Ford Explorer and I can't speak for other models.

Basically, you don't want to have air stuck in your master cylinder. And if you follow the Chitlens manual, or whatever it's called, you will end up with just that. (Nice of them isn't it?)

So, the best thing is to Bench Bleed the master cylinder BEFORE you install it.

But if you had done that, you would not be reading this. So, remove the electronic housing next to the master cylinder reservoir so you can reach down to the master cylinder. Remove and peel back the rubber shield behind the left front tire. The fasteners come out if you just carefully pull on them. You don't have to remove the plastic housing, just about half of the rubber one in order to reach up towards the master cylinder.

Now, just follow the manual to remove the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and firewall. If you don't have the book basically, pry down the tabs on the little black snap in fastener at the end of the MC push rod in order to release it from the clutch pedal. Remove the plastic housing for the electronic clutch engagement sensor or whatever it is. Now the MC puch rod is free inside the cab. From next to the MC fluid resivroir, reach down and turn the MC 45 degrees clockwise to release it from the fastener inside. Now pull it out and position it upside down so that the rod faces down and the hoses are on top.

Now this is the key. Bubbles were trapped inside because some genius designed the mount that way. Have one person on top firmly hold the top of the unit, while another person comes in from the hole behind the wheel and pushes up on the MC push rod. Push slowly and let it out slowly. You should start to see bubble in the MC reservoir. Do this 5-8 times or until you don't see any more bubbles. Now Wait 15 minutes or more. Go do something else. Have some beer. If you come back and try again, you should get more bubbles out. Do this until it's really hard to push the rod in at all.

Now reverse the steps. Make sure the MC is seated correctly on the fastener inside before trying to rotate 45 degrees counter-clockwise to lock it in place. Attach everything back up.

Bleed the system again per the manual.

That's it.

If you are lucky it works. If you have good clutch pressure (somewhat hard to push down the pedal) but still cannot shift right, but have just replaced the master cylinder, then the slave cylinder is probably shot. Which is what just happened to us.

keywords- ford explorer 1995 '95 clutch master slave bleed bleeding cylinder air line sonnova-b
I tried this today on my 1995 Exp Sport and it worked, so many thanks for the tip. I had planned to follow the Haynes manual procedure, but could not separate the slave cylinder from the line (I did not have the special Ford tool) but following your tip we still managed to get the line as vertical as possible, turn the MC upside down and make bubbles appear. Clutch now transformed!
 




Handyman03

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I have a 94 ford ranger. I had a problem shifting the gears, the clutch is not disengaging. I took it to a Ford dealer they said my clutch master cyclinder was bad so they replaced it. I told Ford that i replaced the slave cyclinder 3 years ago, it only had maybe 40,000 to 45,000 miles on it. So they replaced the clutch master cyclinder. I got my truck back and the peddle only lasted a weak before I lost it and had trouble shifting gears. So I bleed the system by putting a vacume pump on the bleeder myself and sucked a half bottle of break fluid through the resevoir. The break fluid came out black by doing this the clutch lasted for a month before I lost the peddle again. So I bleed the system again and the fluild looks black again. What I understand is when break fluid turns black it is because of moisture but I don't have any leaks. I'm not losing any fluid out of the resevoir it is staying full. it seems that every time I bleed the line it work for a while then I lose the peddle again. Anyone have any suggestions on what might be wrong. i would appreciate any help.
 




BonesDT

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Is the fluid in the reservoir black before you start vacuuming?

Short of pouring water directly into the system, I don't think brake fluid can turn black from moisture within a month.

Our slave cylinders are very sensitive and require regular replacing. They should most certaintly be replaced everytime the clutch is replaced, and may not even last that long.

The only thing I can think of is the slave cylinder is bad somehow and is cooking the brake fluid. I know replacing the slave is no simple task. Why don't you try flushing the system with some DOT 5.1 fluid (NOT DOT 5). Wagner makes some. DOT 5.1 has some over-kill heat ranges, maybe you'll get longer/better results as a temprary fix. Maybe just try the old fasion pedal bleeding with a friend too.
 




BonesDT

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BTW, make sure you have the black condom in your reservoir. The OEM master cylinder comes with a new reservoir attached, so the dealership may have f'ed up and didn't install it.
 




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ok i cant even figure out how to get the damn black clip off that is on the top of the clutch pedal assembly. please help!
 




BonesDT

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Good question. I spent a long time trying to fab up a tool that could spread all 4 of those prongs at the same time in that tight little space. I ended up just getting frustrated and prying it off and praying I didn't break it. Good luck.
 




Tony H

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I had a similar issue with a clutch on my Chevy Pickup. Not sure if teh Slave is setup teh same.. Take the slave off the side of Bellhousing. Open bleeder on Slave and let hose and Slave dangle with bleeder facing up. When it gravity bleeds enough to get fluid out of the Slave, tighten bleeder. Then push the plunger of the slave in, that will push all the fluid backwards up to the Master and the bubbles will come out into the reservoir.
 




BonesDT

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Take the slave off the side of Bellhousing.... let hose and Slave dangle.... Then push the plunger of the slave in....

Psst, Chevy guys.

Our slaves are inside the bellhousing. Just saying the word slave cylinder requires a full transmission rebuild.

That's a nice trick though, pushing the plunger in. I wonder if I could reverse bleed it by hooking my Motive pressure bleeder to the slave's bleed screw. Oh well, my clutch is working now. Damn if I open up that hydraulic system again in the near future.
 




Tony H

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Psst, Chevy guys.

Our slaves are inside the bellhousing. Just saying the word slave cylinder requires a full transmission rebuild.

That's a nice trick though, pushing the plunger in. I wonder if I could reverse bleed it by hooking my Motive pressure bleeder to the slave's bleed screw. Oh well, my clutch is working now. Damn if I open up that hydraulic system again in the near future.

Sorry, yeah a lot of "newer" Clutch setups have the Slave as part of the Throwout bearing. Lemme see, Swap out an Old slave for $18 OR Drop the trani and pay $50+ for the new type just because you have a leaky Slave.... Stupid design.
 




catfisher81

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In my Own Experience

I just replaced a Slave Cylinder in my 1991 xlt...
what i did was exactly this....
filled the resevoir with fluid
pumped for about five minutes
held the clutch pedal half way down
person on bottom loosend bleeder valve
i then slowly pressed the clutch pedal all the way down
he then tightend the bleeder valve.
I released the clutch pedal slowly
toped off the fluid once again.
pumped for about 2 minutes and repeated the above process twice...
i then pumped clutch pedal and held it down to the floor and person on botton loosend bleeder valve and we repeated this process twice.
problem solved and one hellava 5 speed once again.,
thanks
________________________________________
1991 xlt 4.0 5speed 4x4
 


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busch393

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Clutch master cylinder bleeding

How do you get the plastic housing off the master cylinder. I guess its the safety switch or something. I need to remove this so I can do the bleeding procedure mentioned above..right?
 




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