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Problem and solution with bleed clutch.

masospaghetti

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Easiest way to bleed the clutch I've found is to get a 2oz Syringe, remove the hose from the reservoir and attach it to the syringe, fill with fluid, open bleeder and force the fluid down, works first time, every time, even with a brand new dry master cylinder.

This seems by far the easiest way to go! Does it not always work? There are a lot of people here that are trying all kinds of (very labor intensive) things to bleed the master cylinder.

My tranny is getting grinding occasionally going into 1st...my pedal feels low, fingers crossed that there's an air bubble hiding somewhere in my system.
 
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Gino1965

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Thank you HahnsB2!

Easiest way to bleed the clutch I've found is to get a 2oz Syringe, remove the hose from the reservoir and attach it to the syringe, fill with fluid, open bleeder and force the fluid down, works first time, every time, even with a brand new dry master cylinder.

That worked perfect for my Explorer Sport 2000. Old brake fluid looked as petroleum when going out of the system. I repeated the proccess 2 more times with same amount of fluid until it came out clean. Now clutch works as new, feels great and gears shift smooth. No need to remove master cylinder or lines, just reservior as HahnsB2 stated.

Thank you again, you have saved me a lot of time and frustation trying to remove the components, especially master cylinder which is located below the hydrovac and need to remove big fuse box just to get access to it.

God bless you!. :thumbsup:
 
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BonesDT

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Easiest way to bleed the clutch I've found is to get a 2oz Syringe, remove the hose from the reservoir and attach it to the syringe, fill with fluid, open bleeder and force the fluid down, works first time, every time, even with a brand new dry master cylinder.

This method sounds the same as using a Motive pressure bleeder, which screws on in place of the reservoir cap and pushes fluid through from the reservoir. Exactly the same as this, but eliminates removing the hose part.

I remember using the Motive on the clutch, but, unfortunately, can't remember if it did the trick or not.
 
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aldiego

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Use syringe to suck out the air

Easiest way to bleed the clutch I've found is to get a 2oz Syringe, remove the hose from the reservoir and attach it to the syringe, fill with fluid, open bleeder and force the fluid down, works first time, every time, even with a brand new dry master cylinder.

I used a syringe and did not open the bleeder. Instead of forcing fluid into the system I sucked fluid out into the syringe until a air pocket was formed in the syringe and held it there until I saw air bubbles coming out of the fluid. I think this caused a vacuum in the system and air being lighter then fluid was drawn out. After I saw the air bubbles I pushed back the syringe to force the fluid back in and put back the reservoir. Give this a try, it's fast and easy and it worked on my 97 Ranger.
 
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jd4242

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How would I go about just flushing my system? Can I just flush it like breaks? Basically just open the bleeder and pump the clutch till clean fluid comes out? What fluid should I use, any synthetics out there that y'all recommend? Nothing is new or been replaced just wanting new fluid in there.
 
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jd4242

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??? Nobody??
 
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jd4242

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Bump. ........
 
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jd4242

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mike ratigan

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1994 ford explorer 4x4 std trans, just rebuilt(not by me) reinstalled by me . can not shift to first or reverse, other gears ok any ideas
 
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xplorernewb

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flush by using a turkey baster. empty the slave cylinder out with the turkey baster. do not completely empty it. bleed your clutch at the slave cylinder until the fluid comes out clear. just remember to not let your res go completely dry.

as for bleeding, ive noticed it helps if you attach the bleed nipple to a hose into a bucket or can of brake fluid while bleeding, or use a mity vac tool that pushes the air out through the res.

you can also purge the hydraulic clutch system by going underneath your clutch pedal, removing the clip and pumping the push rod. messy, but works sometimes.
 
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Darth5oh

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How would I go about just flushing my system? Can I just flush it like breaks? Basically just open the bleeder and pump the clutch till clean fluid comes out? What fluid should I use, any synthetics out there that y'all recommend? Nothing is new or been replaced just wanting new fluid in there.

I wouldn't even pump the clutch pedal - just let it gravity bleed - making sure to keep the top reservoir full of fluid.
 
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jd4242

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I wouldn't even pump the clutch pedal - just let it gravity bleed - making sure to keep the top reservoir full of fluid.

This is a year old..i use the syringe method..i do it different tho and it has work every time..ive gone thro 3 transmission,2 clutches,2 slaves and one line sense this post..i run a T5 with custom SS line now..

But how i do it is hang a jar with fluid in it from the steering wheel,run a line down through the floor shifter to bleeder..then drain reservoir, pull the hose off and attached to a syringe with fluid in it..open bleeder and force fluid with the syringe till all bubbles are out..have the jar on steering wheel lets the air all flow up and line will show clear new fluid..i then close the bleeder and suck back on syringe causing a vacuum.i then tap all the lines with a screwdriver wile under vacuum pressure. .if any bubbles come out into syringe,i start the whole process over..

I got my syringe at walmart in the toy section

FB_IMG_1409345391798_zpseotcqsiw.jpg
 
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Darth5oh

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This is a year old..

Lol – sorry about that. I was just answering on the “replace fluid” only method.

Several months ago when I replaced my master cylinder – I tried all sorts of methods to bleed a new unit and nothing worked until I came-upon a u-tube vid. I hung the master-cylinder unit on a board by the reservoir with the lines and cylinder hanging. After running fluid thought the line with the bleeder open, I then pushed the M/C rod multiple times keeping the bleeder closed at all times. Bubbles worked their way up into the reservoir. I would tap the line and all parts, also turning/twisting the lower lines to get the air to move up. About 10-min. of that cleared the entire unit and the rod finally got hard with less than 1/8” movement.
Again – sorry to revive the dead – but maybe this method will work for someone who’s replacing a M/C.
 
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jd4242

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Yea you always will need to ""bench bleed"" the MC first if its new or of all fluid has been drained
 
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Anthony Cook

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Hey guys I have a 1993 explorer sport and i replaced the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, but i cant get it to bleed no matter what. I tried to bench bleed it but not really sure on how I sould position the it when I bench bleed it. I have no pedle at all.
open the resevoir, pump the pedal quickly at the point where you feel some resistance and watch the bubbles come out the top, It will firm up relatively quickly.
 
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Centaurious

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There are videos about bleeding the clutch master and line assembly. I could not get the slave cylinder to gravity bleed after the master was re-installed, I had to pressurize the system with the pedal then bleed.

The aftermarket slaves have a bleed line that exits the top of the slave then up, over and down to the bleed screw. This causes a BIG air bubble in the slave bleed line that MUST be forced out. In comparison the factory bleed line exits at an angle then horizontally to the bleed screw, no trapped air.
 
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jimmy_shr14

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Use syringe to suck out the air



I used a syringe and did not open the bleeder. Instead of forcing fluid into the system I sucked fluid out into the syringe until a air pocket was formed in the syringe and held it there until I saw air bubbles coming out of the fluid. I think this caused a vacuum in the system and air being lighter then fluid was drawn out. After I saw the air bubbles I pushed back the syringe to force the fluid back in and put back the reservoir. Give this a try, it's fast and easy and it worked on my 97 Ranger.
where can i get a 2oz syringe? ill try this before i get labor intensive
 
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