Problem installing Torsion bar key isolator pads

[Napu(StrongWave)]

Hello so I started out swapping the lower control arms out,which led to removing torsion bar key in which I find out the isolator pads are deteriorated to nothing. I get some new pads now I'm ready to install but I'm having problems with the 5ton 2-jaw puller staying straight,I can almost get the key up enough to slide in the pin when I look over at the puller and it's pulling sideways almost parallel to the key and looks like it's about to come off. I line the puller up straight every time but it keeps doing this. I have had a front end alignment somewhat recently. I wonder if the mechanic indexed the key to compensate for the pads, gone like they were.

Question here is would I have ave to re-index the torsion key to compensate for the new pads?

Or do I compensate for it at the control arm?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Hello so I started out swapping the lower control arms out,which led to removing torsion bar key in which I find out the isolator pads are deteriorated to nothing. I get some new pads now I'm ready to install but I'm having problems with the 5ton 2-jaw puller staying straight,I can almost get the key up enough to slide in the pin when I look over at the puller and it's pulling sideways almost parallel to the key and looks like it's about to come off. I line the puller up straight every time but it keeps doing this. I have had a front end alignment somewhat recently. I wonder if the mechanic indexed the key to compensate for the pads, gone like they were.

Question here is would I have ave to re-index the torsion key to compensate for the new pads?

Or do I compensate for it at the control arm?

try to use a speed clamp but used as a spreader for that kind of use, ig et what you mean though, sometimes it does it abruptly and BAM! lol

you shouldnt have to reindex if its in stock position, if the mech moved it, then even then its the same thing as doing a reserve twist or twist imo as long as its not far off. usually alignments they wont index the bars

 

[donalds]

Be careful this is very dangerous!!!!

 

[Fordtruckfan89]

Get the proper tool, dont use a puller

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Get the proper tool, dont use a puller

theres another tool?

Be careful this is very dangerous!!!!

indeed so, that thing can be a weapon LOL

 

[donalds]

theres another tool?

indeed so, that thing can be a weapon LOL

Amazon product ASIN B000YOP0OS

 

[Mbrooks420]

Hopefully that’s a rentable tool. I’d figure out a more dangerous way to pull it cheaper.

 

[Turdle]

I use a bottle jack with deep grooves on the jack pad. It's not safe but if you jack up just the end of the key, you can pop the adjuster nut in. At no time let your fingers get up into the slot. The pin can be slid in from the side. The adjuster bolt should be removed from the nut- pin for this to work.


Beware the truck weight on jackstands will change, and, the truck may come up off the stand a bit before the key fully raises.
I've even had to have another person push down on bumper to counteract this. Sketchy yes.
Bottle jack may slip so I take no responsibility for your actions.

 

[Fordtruckfan89]

The OTC ford one looks like a big u bolt. I got one used cheap

 

[donalds]

I use a bottle jack with deep grooves on the jack pad. It's not safe but if you jack up just the end of the key, you can pop the adjuster nut in. At no time let your fingers get up into the slot. The pin can be slid in from the side. The adjuster bolt should be removed from the nut- pin for this to work.


Beware the truck weight on jackstands will change, and, the truck may come up off the stand a bit before the key fully raises.
I've even had to have another person push down on bumper to counteract this. Sketchy yes.
Bottle jack may slip so I take no responsibility for your actions.

Here's how I did it

I literally just did this job


No ride height adjustment no alignment required with this method

torsion bar removal

I have a few questions on my suspension. I've been having a fast knocking on the passenger side for a few months now. Well today I decided to replace the upper control arm to only find out it still knocks. I crawled underneath and when I let the jack down, the ball joint MOVED in the socket...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Napu(StrongWave)]

Work has got me tired as all get out. That's why I've been so unresponsive, sorry. I got them in though,but not out the woods yet. Problem was I bought an upgrade, a new set of Rancho shocks. I was so excited of having my own first set that I started putting the shocks in everything back on and started to set the torque bolt,,that's when i first had this problem with the pads and the puller. Well I realized what I did and had to take everything off of the control arm to get them to go in. Now my question is do I set the torque bolt now before I put the parts back on the CA or can I go ahead and start putting the back parts on the CA and then set the torque bolt?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

torque bolt? you mean the bar adjuster? thats th last part... maybe im misunderstanding

 

[Napu(StrongWave)]

torque bolt? you mean the bar adjuster? thats th last part... maybe im misunderstanding

Sorry,yes the adjuster bolt

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Sorry,yes the adjuster bolt

the adjuster gets tightened or loosened last, thats the first part to loosen to remove the bars, and the last part to finish up. if im understanding correct you can install the bar in the LCA and then tighten. though do make sure the key is set in enough where th puller isnt needed, once you get to the tightening stage, you dont need th puller. hope that made sense

 

[AntonyU21]

It feels dangerous, please be careful

 

[donalds]

It is Really Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing
Please be careful

 

[Napu(StrongWave)]

It's done. This is actually the second set of lower control arms that I put on this truck it's just been probably 11 years since I did the last one. Thanks to everyone's help from this forum the first go around and now the second go around.Hope I can be here to help y'all in the future. Thanks

 

[Fix4Dirt]

It is Really Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing
Please be careful

the thin puller the second it gets off its balance can newely fly! certainly was a bit scary and certainly very dangerous. it wasnt bad doibg factory keys but with the lift keys that took more height.... no bueno

 

[CDW6212R]

I didn't know people still use a puller to change the torsion bar keys, or the isolator pad etc. I rebuilt my first 98's front suspension in 2005, without any puller. With the LCA hanging down, there is no force on the torsion bar or key etc.

When you relieve the pressure by supporting the truck with jack stands and lowering the LCA with a jack, the force is gone and it's safe to handle the torsion bar keys, adjuster etc. You put it all back in place loosely where it needs to go, lifting by hand the LCA to get a floor jack under the spindle. I was changing everything that first time, the torsion bars, and the keys(lowering).

I had my 99 all apart when I reconstructed it, the whole front diff, CA's and all, to clean and rebuild. The isolator pads fell out of that one, though they were like new then in 2006. I installed just new CA's and keys in my black 98 in about 2016, which didn't help to get it lowered. So I have only messed with the keys three times, my last 98 I only changed the CA's. So no puller is needed; I grew up with old Fords and dealt with the tough coil spring compressors to R&R the suspension parts. That was dangerous, so years later with these 2nd gen Explorers, I found a safer way to do it. just take the LCA loose from the spindle, lower it with a floor jack until the pressure is off and the torsion key can be removed etc.