problem replacing RABS valve

[stevedud]

I haven't had rear brakes for a while and finally determined it was the RABS value located under the drivers seat connected to the frame. Had difficulty getting it off but finally did.

Bought a rebuilt from autozone and installed it.

Problem: the rear brake line connected to valve does not connect well. I'm able to tighten in down but it leaks. I press on the brake and I get fluid coming out around threads. I've removed the line and tried again but still the same. I try tightening it down but still leaks.

Could it be a bad rebuilt RABS? Bad line? Can't tell. What to try next?

Any advise is appreciated.

 

[wolfnutts]

i just did a brk line a month ago about 8 feet of it that runs along frame an i thk the fitting that goes into your valve is metric sized if i remmember right an the flair is button style if you used different fitting an such it will definlly leak . u asked about line so im just thinking ya changed some thing / did you have any fluid at your wheel cly before ya replaced the valve? just wanting to understand why you thought rabs was bad

 

[stevedud]

When I tried bleeding the rear brake cylinders, I wasn't getting fluid. I read and people suggested that the RABS valve rusts closed and that usually causes the problem. I removed the RABS valve and put the new one in, attaching it to the existing lines. So the line and fittings should be OK.

Any further suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks for your help.

 

[DeRocha]

When I tried bleeding the rear brake cylinders, I wasn't getting fluid. I read and people suggested that the RABS valve rusts closed and that usually causes the problem. I removed the RABS valve and put the new one in, attaching it to the existing lines. So the line and fittings should be OK.

Any further suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks for your help.

It could be the flair connection on the line.. The compression fittings (double flair-STD or Bubble flair-Metric) are designed to crush and conform to the internal fitting making a seal (not the threads). Anyway how did the old line flair look when you removed it?

 

[gadgetguy]

It could be the flair connection on the line.. The compression fittings (double flair-STD or Bubble flair-Metric) are designed to crush and conform to the internal fitting making a seal (not the threads). Anyway how did the old line flair look when you removed it?

Hello everyone,

I'm having the EXACT same problem as Stevedud. Same part from Autozone (reman from Cardone). Both connections to the assembly are seeping, but the connection for the rear brakes is much worse.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The factory manual doesn't say a thing about having to re-flare the lines...

Joe (newbie here)