Problem with shift !!

[jm_vg]

Hi guys !! I have a big problem. In my Exp ( equipped with a 5 speed manual transmission ) , when the motor is cold ( turned on in the morning for example ) the transmission shifts fine without problem. But, once the motor is with normal temperature of operation, the transmission doent' shifts, particularly for First shift. For example, if I stop in front of a stopligh and I wait the green ligh and try to first shift , is impossible !!. I must the motor turned off, placing first shift , and then next motor turned on. !! I don't know what happen !!..Will the temperature affect in the dilatation of the clutch? Your opinions please.!! Best Regard

 

[griffigr]

My truck is doing the exact same thing right now. I'm convinced it's the pilot bearing that isn't letting the clutch fully disengage. I find the easiest way to deal with the problem is to let the gears slip into place by themselves. With the clutch depressed (and with the truck rolling), hold the gear shifter in place of the gear you want to select. Don't give the motor any gas when you do this. Within a few seconds, you'll feel the gear slide past the clutch and into place. That's a simple cure for up shifting. I haven't quite mastered the down shifting technique as of yet.

 

[jm_vg]

I forgot to make a comment than when achievement engage 1 shift, and wish to return neutral position, it is practically impossible, owing also to motor turned off.
Where is the pilot bearing located? Is very difficult change it or fix ?

 

[griffigr]

Your problem may be different than mine. I can pull my truck out of gear without a problem. How does your clutch pedal feel? Is it firm or spongy? If it is firm, it's the pilot bearing. If it's spongy, it's the slave cylinder. Both are located inside the transmission housing and are a pain to replace. If you have to replace one of them, you're better off replacing the entire clutch assembly, as well. If it is your slave cylinder, you can always add more fluid to your clutch master cylinder. This works for awhile, but eventually, the slave cylinder will have to be replaced. If it is your pilot bearing, it will have to be replaced, as there is no real way to avoid its repair.

 

[jm_vg]

Griff...the clutch pedal feel it lightly spongy. But, if is the slave cylinder, why does the temperature affect it ?

 

[Mickelsons]

I had this happen with a motorcycle I had, it had air in the hydraulic clutch, I bled it and the problem when away. For some reason when the hydraulic fluid gets warm the air expands or something. Not sure how to bleed the system, but it might be something to check.

 

[griffigr]

In your case, I would recommend bleeding the hydraulic line, then re-filling the clutch master cylinder with DOT 3 hydraulic (brake) fluid. This usually seems to work.....for awhile, anyway.

 

[jm_vg]

Ok..Mickelson...Thanks for your information...I hope so be that you say !!....
Does somebody know like to bleed the system of clutch?

 

[griffigr]

It's just like bleeding brakes. Disconnect the hose from the clutch master cylinder, located on the driver's side firewall. Then, get a 2-liter bottle and have someone hold the hose inside the bottle as you pump the clutch pedal. This way, you can re-use the hydraulic fluid, as well as keeping your driveway clean. After you have evacuated all the hydraulic fluid, re-fill the master cylinder and pump your clutch to build system pressure.

 

[jm_vg]

Problem and solution with bleed clutch.

The last weekend I have bleed the system of clutch, but I had problems . I followed the instructions of Chilton's book, but was the very soft clutch pedal, like sponge and the shift did not engage. The problem was that always an airlock continued to be the inside of the system, specifically in the master clutch cylinder. The solution was to withdraw the master cylinder of its original position, freeing it from the clutch pedal, and at a later time, to invert it of position, that is, to leave it to the reverse. Therefore, it was pumped from the floor ( under the automobile ) up. That way you could free the airlocks that were trapped in the master cylinder. This operation I accomplished it with my father three continuous times, opening and closing the screw of bleeding. Finally, that was the solution, the shift engage perfectly..!!

 

[jakeamondo]

I have a 1995 exp with 5 speed manual. I had the hard shift problem, unable to shift into gear with clutch pedal pressed. I read three different manuals and they all conflicted with other about bleeding the system. The big problem is the master cylinder, it should be removed from the vehicle and bench bled. You have to support the resevoir above the master cylinder and the feed tube (quick release end) below everthing. keep the resevoir full at al times. position the master cylinder vertical with the push rod end down, push the rod in and hold it in. use a screwdriver to release fluid from the quick connect fitting. repeat 4 or five times. finally with the resevoir full pinch the feed line a few times to remove any trapped air. follow up with the pedal pressing bleed after installing the master cylinder. Press and hold 2 seconds release fast wait 2seconds repeat 10 times wait 5 minutes and do it several more times. keep resevoir full. Never reuse any brake fluid. always use fresh unopened fluid as recommended. After all is said and done, put a plastic tube on the slave bleeder valve and with pedal depressed, slightly crack open and close bleeder to release air trapped in slave. This worked for me, I can finally get into gear without turning engine off. It actually worked better after sitting overnight

 

[jm_vg]

If I use a pump of bleeding for brakes, I think that it will be better than withdrawing the master cylinder and inverting it . Will he be that way?