Project "Back From The Dead" Lots of questions...

[ShortyzKustomz]

I always hate to start as a newbie on forums with novel posts. But I figured I wouldnt clutter up things with a millions questions. I'll try to make a long story short. I recently got a 98 Explorer EB 4.0 SOHC for free (Long story) Truck has 172K. It was parked over 5 years ago when a shop told my wifes 90 year old grandfather "It locked up" Skip ahead 5 years we have a kid on the way and I just decided to ask him what he was going to do with it. (He never sells or gives away anything) Long story short, Its towed to my house now, They found the lost keys and I found its not locked up. A?C compressor was locked solid, Turn the key it clicked. Cut belt off, it cranks fine. Heres where my questions start. First time I turned the key it fired Ran for 3 secs and cut off. And just cranks now. Im sure it doesnt like 5 year old gas and I have a ton of problems in that area. Where should I start. Never dealt with a newer vehicle sitting, Just carb'd stuff that would run on 5 year old gas. Plan on getting all old fuel out, changing fuel filter and If I need to... drop tank and find whats wrong. Next question, A/c compressor is obviously locked up. Figured I'd replace compressor (maybe used?) and throw a new accumulator and orifice tube on it? Any thing else on these you'd recommend? Third Question (For now) Radio works, But no illumination or text at all, Also have dimmer switch probs but gauge lights work. Any thoughts? I want to keep this an ongoing thread as I fight to get this thing back roadworthy.

Just looking for more Explorer specific advice... Ive been working on vehicles for years, Done tons of motor swaps, engine rebuilds etc etc. And Im EPA Certified in A/C Just want the advice of the Ford Pros!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i would make sure the fuel pump is still good also. it may (possibly) have seized up from sitting for so long (you should be able to here it cycle when you turn the key on). also, if it was cranking, and not firing, do a compression test. if you have 0 on more then one cylinder, you have bigger problems. for your radio, do a search on that one. i remember a few threads on that, but cant remember what the fix was for it.

 

[Explodr94]

i would make sure the fuel pump is still good also. it may (possibly) have seized up from sitting for so long (you should be able to here it cycle when you turn the key on). also, if it was cranking, and not firing, do a compression test. if you have 0 on more then one cylinder, you have bigger problems. for your radio, do a search on that one. i remember a few threads on that, but cant remember what the fix was for it.

Ditto and I would also add that I have pulled a few fuel injected cars that have been sitting. On most of them, I have had to replace injectors.

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to find some more details. And start working on this thing. Compression is good, Checked that once I got the motor turning over. Also another thing Ive noticed. Fuel gauge is pegged past full, But the console display keeps beeping and saying Fuel Level Low and 0 miles to empty....

 

[koda2000]

1. Check your fuel pressure to see of pump and filter are working properly.
2. Drop and empty the fuel tank. Clean it out and replace the sock on the fuel pump.
3. I'd change the fuel filter even if the fuel pressure is good.
4. Assuming you don't have a full tank of gas, it sounds like you have a wiring issue between you sender and fuel gauge. Typically, when there is no contact between a sender and a gauge it will peg to FULL (or HIGH if it's a temp gauge).
5. The radio display problem is very common to these vehicles. It's caused by excessive heat on a circut board inside the radio. There are multiple threads on this subject. You can try to re-solder the circut board, but even if you get it to work it will eventually go out again. There's someone listed who can repair this problem permanently for about $75 (I think... search for posts in this formum).
6. Be sure to flush out the A/C lines, condenser and evaporator. Change the accumulator and install an in-line filter when you change the compressor.
7. It's very possible that you'll have to replace some or all of the fuel injectors. For your sake I hope not as this gets expensive even for remans.

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

1. Check your fuel pressure to see of pump and filter are working properly.
2. Drop and empty the fuel tank. Clean it out and replace the sock on the fuel pump.
3. I'd change the fuel filter even if the fuel pressure is good.
4. Assuming you don't have a full tank of gas, it sounds like you have a wiring issue between you sender and fuel gauge. Typically, when there is no contact between a sender and a gauge it will peg to FULL (or HIGH if it's a temp gauge).
5. The radio display problem is very common to these vehicles. It's caused by excessive heat on a circut board inside the radio. There are multiple threads on this subject. You can try to re-solder the circut board, but even if you get it to work it will eventually go out again. There's someone listed who can repair this problem permanently for about $75 (I think... search for posts in this formum).
6. Be sure to flush out the A/C lines, condenser and evaporator. Change the accumulator and install an in-line filter when you change the compressor.
7. It's very possible that you'll have to replace some or all of the fuel injectors. For your sake I hope not as this gets expensive even for remans.

Thanks for you advice... I picked up a filter and sock last night at my 2nd job (Autozone part time) And plan on doing all that next weekend. I need top dig up my fuel pressure gauge and see what I have. What kind of psi should I have, key on engine off? As far as radios go, I was just seeing if there was an easy fix. Dont want to throw alot of money in a stock radio, I'll just pick up the harness to keep factory amplified and throw a nice deck in it. I will be flushing a/c lines. Already priced a new accumulator and orifice tube and have a friend who has access to a vacuum pump. I hope I dont have any injector problems, Even with my discount Its still about $40 each. But then again. If Im under $1000 total in this thing and have a good vehicle, I really cant complain. I only have a $80 tow bill invested right now

 

[koda2000]

RE fuel pressures, while your at work at the "o-zone" check the specs in one of their Haynes repair manuals. As far as the injectors, if you've got the appropriate amount of fuel pressure and it's still not firing, squirt some starter fluid into the throttle body while you crank it. if it fires briefly, then you know you've got an injector issue. There isn't any way to bench-test injectors other than to listen for a click indicating they'e firing. I think you can do this test using a 9V battery, but if they're clogged there isn't much you can do with them.

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

RE fuel pressures, while your at work at the "o-zone" check the specs in one of their Haynes repair manuals. As far as the injectors, if you've got the appropriate amount of fuel pressure and it's still not firing, squirt some starter fluid into the throttle body while you crank it. if it fires briefly, then you know you've got an injector issue. There isn't any way to bench-test injectors other than to listen for a click indicating they'e firing. I think you can do this test using a 9V battery, but if they're clogged there isn't much you can do with them.

Ended up working till after 11 again tonight so no readings back yet. Did finally get my wife outside (Broken Foot) And got her to turn the key while I listened for pump noise. I hear nothing... That explains why I havent had anything for fire, The few secs it ran was probably old fuel in the rail. I suppose that means I might have not pumped too much gunk through the system. Tried switching 2 relays, Same story. Im soo broke right now with the wife out of work I dont know what Im going to do. There is a guy locally parting out a 97 EB. He wants $100 for the whole fuel tank and everything included and wants $10 per injector. Might try to haggle and see what I can do. Everything should be the same as my 98 right?

 

[drdoom]

I think it might be different type of injection, i.e. return vs. returnless...you had better check that.
Also, I recommend a quart of mystery oil in the crankcase once you get it running. Run that for a bit to clean it up, then go back to your regular oil. Also as discussed above some cleaning of the fuel system is advisable. Consider StarTron, and if you use that you will soon need to replace the fuel filter, because the enzyme cleaner is quite thorough.

And a big +1 on getting a test gauge on that fuel rail...guesswork til that happens.

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

I think it might be different type of injection, i.e. return vs. returnless...you had better check that.
Also, I recommend a quart of mystery oil in the crankcase once you get it running. Run that for a bit to clean it up, then go back to your regular oil. Also as discussed above some cleaning of the fuel system is advisable. Consider StarTron, and if you use that you will soon need to replace the fuel filter, because the enzyme cleaner is quite thorough.

And a big +1 on getting a test gauge on that fuel rail...guesswork til that happens.

I have a ton of free samples of motor treatments and things comparable to Marvel around here, Full fluid flushes are in order. Just trying to get it to run long enough to listen to timing chain noises etc. before I start dumping money. Local guy parting stuff gave me some good prices, Just need to sell some other goodies to get the cash for that. Tried pushing it uphill tonight to get it closer to the garage. That failed. On a good side not the horrible smell insideis almost gone after lots of cleaning

Also no pressure on the rail, As I said last night, Pump is making no noise

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

Havent had time to work on it any between both jobs. I wanted to have it running by the time her grandfather came out here in 2 weeks. But I think lack of funds might kill that. Hope to have the tank dropped out this coming weekend.

Heres what I have going on with the gauges now...

Fuel Gauge

But then I have both of these too...

All that and a pump that wont turn on... Any suggestions? Any places I should check wiring? I think there was a mouse in this thing one time during its 5 year park. Just looking at all possibly options. Was running fine, Till compressor locked up, Shop told him motor was locked up and was towed to him back yard and has sat there ever since...

 

[Joe Dirt]

I would assume the sending unit is torqued up, I would just replace the pump, sender, filter, probably injectors as well, etc- and just start over on the fuel system. Worth a few $$ to invest...

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

Well heres an update. Dropped tank yesterday (Had a helluva time with one fuel line and cut my hand open) Pulled the pump and def found the problems. Sock was pack full of rust and trash and was split open. Sending unit was rusted all the way up. I pulled about 20 handfuls of trash out of the tank. Spent about an hour cleaning the tank last night, getting as much rust and scale as possible. Let it air dry last night and now have about 2 gallons of Kerosene in there sloshing around to get other stuff free. I'll dump that out, Use some rubbing alcohol to get the rest of the moisture out and put the low mileage used pump assembly I got in there. More updates to come

 

[drdoom]

Shorty, do you know what size terminals are on the pumps you have? I need a pump for a 97 and have no idea what size terminals are needed.

 

[ShortyzKustomz]

Shorty, do you know what size terminals are on the pumps you have? I need a pump for a 97 and have no idea what size terminals are needed.

No clue, I got a complete hanger assembly from the junk yard with a warranty, So mine was just bolt in, plug in and go.

I do have my old pump sitting here if you need me to measure something


On a side note. This think is running GREAT for sitting for 5 years. Didnt wanna run worth a crap. Replaced the fuel filter, Bled air out the system and this thing fired right up! Revs are clean, No timing chain noise.

So now starts the fluid flushes and reg tune up fun. Then its on the the A/C system. Replacing the locked up compressor and getting a serp belt back on this thing. And then its onto more working the bugs out.

Another questions.... Anyone ever had tach problems, On Start up tach shoots to 4-5k And stays there. No matter actual RPMs and Revs

 

[drdoom]

Thanks for the reply, Shorty...glad you have her purring, man. Good job.

Where you plug it in, the terminals narrow 3/32", or wide 1/4".
Thanks in advance.