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Project build - "Elvira"

RustySJohnson

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City, State
Indianapolis, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 Limited
Up and running after three weeks

After running radiator flush through the system, it took about 3 days before a rotted-out freeze plug finally let loose on the back of the passenger's side head. To get to it, I had to remove most of the top end; lower intake manifold, plenum, valve covers, etc...

I wasn't too broke up about it 'cept the tow bill - $85. It needed valve cover gaskets desperately anyway. Gave me the opportunity to port the intake and perform some PM, although much sooner than I had planned. I managed to break the fuel canister purge solenoid - another $40 down the toilet.

I was able to identify a problem with a rough idle when warm. The rubber boot connecting the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line was soft and expanded, not making a good connection except when cold. If it wasn't for the rigidity of the line itself, it would just have fallen off. I took the liberty of replacing all vacuum line connectors. $16 worth of heartache avoided.

All fuel injectors were serviced in an ultrasonic bath of carb cleaner, reversed flowed, ohm checked, and outfitted with new pintles, screens, and painted. $14.00 toward better fuel economy.

The alternator, I rebuilt with new bearings, brushes, plus a paint job. The brushes were worn down to a nub. $35 well spent.

I went ahead and replaced all bearings on the pulley's; Idler and tensioner. I buy 6203 sealed bearings by the sleeve - dozen at a time. These are a good thing to keep around the shop. They are cheap and are easy to replace. It's one thing to take anything apart, replace only what you need; but to paint, polish, and service anything in your path takes time, yall know that? I set the cost to prepaid. Bearings by the sleeve run about $5 each.

I installed a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and I'm getting ready to mount it on the cowl. It looks cool and is a handy little piece of info to know. $45
 

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RustySJohnson

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City, State
Indianapolis, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 Limited
Good luck, bad luck

It's running like a top, but now she's not shifting right after all my engine work. For once, I hope it's something I did wrong. Vacuum line or something simple. Looks like next weekend's booked with substance over style.

Am I the victim Coincidence or conspiracy? Maybe a curse to test my resolve? You be the judge: Three weeks ago when I was on my way to the paint distributor, I blew a freeze plug and didn't make it. Today, on my way to get the tires, I had transmission problems, I made it but was in troubleshooting mode instead of bliss. Both incidents occurred while upgrading, Is Elvira telling me to pay attention to the maintenance instead of upgrades? I think so.

OK, OK, Elvira. I can take a hint - just no more tow bills.

Tires were installed, I went with the 255/55R20 (31.1") Bridgestone Dueller''s. No rubbing, or trimming required. Someone beat me to two of the Pirelli's. Oh well, nothing gained/lost. I could complain, but nobody would listen and I doubt anyone will shed a tear anyway.

Picture's aren't that good, but I had my hands full with two rowdy little boys hopped up on M&M's, Twizzlers, and Soda -thanks to Grandpa.

For ***** n grins, there's a seek and find in the second pic.
 

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Bruces expo

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91 Mazda Navajo
looks great Rusty !! , In the seek and find , Is that a leak I see ?
 


















RustySJohnson

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'94 Limited
Wood1 found the hint.

I don't think I was meant to see those tires, I pretended not to notice. I didn't have the nerve to ask "Where's the spare?"

Wood1, I owe you one for your help today.

Found the problem with the tranny, took about 10 minutes. The rubber hose connecting the vacuum modulator to the long rigid vacuum line from the tree was off completely. Lucky break.
 

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wood1

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'93 XLT, Cayman Green RIP
You don't owe me anything Rusty, glad to help.

If that line was leaking tranny fluid you will have to replace the modulator as that indicates that the diaphragm has failed. When the diaphragm fails it allows the engine to suck transmission fluid into the intake and burn it. I had a new one in my tool box for a couple years waiting for mine to die so when it did I realized it right away.

The modulator is easiest replaced by going through the hole in the floor where the 5 sp. shifter would live if you had a manual. After doing it once I think I could easily do it in under an hour start to finish.
 






RustySJohnson

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City, State
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'94 Limited
Rusty no more

Between the packages of purses, shoes, clothes, and crap my wife orders on Amazon, it was my turn. It's a blessing and a curse to live so close to the main warehouse, most stuff we order arrives the next day UPS or FedEx Ground shipping. Indy has it's merits.

My rust proofing kit from Eastwood came in today. Since the transmission's fixed, guess I can move on to protecting the body from the elements this weekend. Keep her well preserved and looking good like the real Elvira.
 

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RustySJohnson

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'94 Limited
Freeze plug #2 - POW

Guess how many days?

If you guessed 3, you'd be right. That's how many days it takes for a fresh batch of super radiator flush to eat through the rust on the plugs inside this motor.

2 bottles of Bar's radiator stop leak didn't work, maybe just too big, but 8 gals of water from the local pharmacy did get me home.


Anyone have any input as if I should just pull the motor and replace them all, or leave it in place and try it that way?
 






Bruces expo

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Sorry to hear about the damage rusty
 






wood1

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Yikes, I wouldn't trust that it isn't going to keep blowing plugs until they are all replaced. I'd just fix them all if it were me Rusty.
 






rickybobby

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I would just pull the engine and replace them all. There is one inside the bellhousing if memory serves me correctly, and given the added work of replacing them with the engine installed i would just pull it.
 






Bruces expo

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I would just pull the engine and replace them all. There is one inside the bellhousing if memory serves me correctly, and given the added work of replacing them with the engine installed i would just pull it.


I think your Right Rickybobby !
DSCF6698.jpg
 






RustySJohnson

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Agreed, pulling it would be best

It'll give me a chance to change the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and the transmission seal. It's springing more oil leaks as we speak, I added 1/3 can of Seafoam to the oil to clean it out. It's basically doing the same thing the coolant system's doing after freeing up all that garbage that's holding it together and sealing.

That Super Radiator Flush does work well. The cooling system's definitely cleaner. The inside of the freeze plugs, the rust and scale scrapes off with my fingernail. It's gone from a rust colored hue with slimy boogers, to a light rust tint. It's been flushed out with water several times now as It's puked out the plugs, plus I've ran the water hose through it a couple times. The drive home yesterday morning to swap vehicles, I did the old routine, drive a mile and stop, refill. I went through 8 gals of water. It was the 2nd treatment with that stuff too, I'm on borrowed time at this point. Even still, I'm going to chance it and run the radiator flush a 3rd time. I may as well, what's there to loose?

The Bar's stop-leak does not work on holes this big and my theory is that it does not work mixed with the radiator flush. I bought one of those rubber plugs to keep in the truck just in case. Figured I'd carry a JB weld stick too, figured that would work although I've never tried that before. I fixed it again last night and drove it this morning, I'm carrying 10 gals of water in jugs, I even thought about running a real long tube from the radiator overflow to a 5 gallon bucket in the cab.

I forgot about that big one in the bell housing. If it lets loose, watch out.

Any other suggestions as to what I might service while it's out? I was thinking the oil pump? Is that necessary?
 






wood1

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Isn't the large plug under the bell for the camshaft er... tunnel (for lack of a better term)?

Might as well pull the thing, good chance to clean up under the hood, paint the motor, new seals, oil pan gasket, oil pump... hell, might as well rering, replace the cam chain and inserts if you are pulling it Rusty. It would only add a day or two to the job if the crank is in good shape. Very likely it is. Maybe it's a good time to upgrade the cam to take advantage of your port job?
 






tweakedlogic

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That's how things get started you didn't intend. Just as my Toyota. After you have it out it's so easy to say, "might as well take this off and do that." Before you know it your in over $3000 in parts and machine labor.
 






wood1

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I dunno Tweak, I did a full rebuild on a 302 for well under 1000. I honed the cylinders, nothing needed machining... if your motor isn't worn out already it should be an easy job.
 






tweakedlogic

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Well, I did go a little over board with the 22r. Ported/polish head and intake, machine crank, block, and head, high comp pistons, cam, over sized valves, everything. But it started with a head and oil pan gasket. I just kept finding things I wanted to improve or replace.
 






wood1

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Ha ha, that's what you call a obsession, not a simple project!

Mod monkey alert!
 



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RustySJohnson

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'94 Limited
Ocd

Ha ha, that's what you call a obsession, not a simple project!

Mod monkey alert!

Tell me about it.

That's how things get started you didn't intend. Just as my Toyota. After you have it out it's so easy to say, "might as well take this off and do that." Before you know it your in over $3000 in parts and machine labor.

I have a spare running engine and tranny out of the EB as backup. I'll refresh that motor in the meantime, It'll take me a while to get that done. Way in the future, I plan the V8 conversion, but that's a long way off, I'm speaking in terms of years. Right now, I'm focused on maintenance and reliability. It's got to get me through the winter. I'm obsessive compulsive when it comes to fluid leaks and cleaning.

Likely, it may be spring before I get to the lifting. I still need to disassemble the EB for the parts I want to keep and sell the carcass.

As far as mods, I'm doing things that can be accomplished and still drive it. Interior is next, electronics and upholstery. The remote start, seats, monitors, stereo, and my favorite; the double din conversion:http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345061&highlight=double+din
 






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