Project X = Wheel Bearing Issues

[Burns]

Dang thats good.

 

[Tbars4]

...just a quick update...
...at truckhaven i kept an eye on them....when i first got there after 125mi. trip, i tightened up the right side....did some decent rock trails and the notches friday and everything came loose...tightened it up and on saturday grenaded my driverside hub...replaced the hub and checked the pass side just in case...
...i found when i grenaded the drivers side hub the passenger side must have moved and i damaged the new splined washer...thanks to 90ranajo i have a spare set on with the indexing pin but now i need new bearings...

 

[Tbars4]

..i just got off the phone with glenn at stage8...seems there are a couple variables in which he is not sure on the dana 35 hubs...

...he says guys have used the stage8 on dana35's but he heard stage 8 does not fit with the ford hub...he knows they fit with the warn hub but our thinking, glenn's and mine, is that it only fits with the jeep warn hub on the dana35...this is left up to us to figure out...anyone know the diff on the ford warn hub and the jeep warn hub??? :scratch:

 

[RockRanger]

The best person I can think of to know the difference is 4x4junkie on this board. He is also on Pirates and the ranger station. He knows a ton about the dana 35.

 

[sn0border88]

the jeep warn hub is for a full floater d35 application, it uses a premium style lockout (I believe) in which case it should be bigger.

 

[Kirby N.]

Take a look at this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197487
Unfortunately the nuts will not work with the stock hubs. I really don't think they will fit with the Jeep hubs either.

The Jeep hubs are visually the same. My brother rand the kit on the rear of his cherokee. I looked them side by side and visually there is no difference. I doubt the inside is bigger, I didn't whip out a caliper and check though...

My 44 doesn't give me any problems. The problem with the 35 is that the bearings are too close. The 44's bearings are further apart.

When my 35 did this I fixed it. After some thought, I decided I liked the Auto Hub nuts way better than the manual. The key is a pain to get out sometimes, but I got pretty good at it. The best part is the key prevents the nut from going anywhere. However, there is a problem. Like the Stage 8 nuts, the auto nuts will not fit in the manual hubs housing. I took the Auto nuts and clamped the manual nut to them. Then I took my angle grinder and gound the ridge of the auto not down to the size of the manual nut. Then I cut out the notches so I could use a manual hub tool. I put the thing together with the key, then used the lock nut on the outside of it to keep the key in. The nice thing is that even if the nut comes loose, it cannot come off due to the hub being on there, and the key will not come out even if nut is loose. There is not enough play. It worked great for me for a couple of years. I can't get pics because it is long gone...

 

[fulfilledstraw]

Torque clarification?

It was my understanding that one should torque the wheel bearing locknut to 100-150 ft/lbs, and then back it off to around 25 in/lbs.

My question is, are you tightening the locknut to 200-250 ft/lbs and leaving it at that, or are you tightening the locknut and then backing it off again? I don't even know if I can get the retaining key inside the locknut if I tighten it to those extremes, but the little key won't go in unless I back off the locknut to what seems to be more loose than it should be.

 

[Tbars4]

...tighten your first nut hand tightened plus, install the washer with retaining key to lock into that first nut, then install the outside nut and tighten as much as you can...if you read page one and 2 of this thread it seams to echo this...
...the big key for me so far is to double check this a couple times after driving...my thinking is the outer bearing and race have to seat just perfect...i hope this helps...

 

[Tbars4]

...UPDATE :

...i recently had to raplace the pass side rotor as it walked in to the caliper casting...which in turn i believe meant that the inner race and bushing actually were moving out to the point that the spindle nuts tightened to the end of the threading on the spindle and the rotor still had play...this showed up in 100 mi.s on the way to, and after i checked for pre trip to truckhaven...

...i did a couple days at truckhaven and a day up in big bear for about 600mi. offroading and over the road trips in a week and knock on wood.......the spindle nut is still tight...

 

[Tbars4]

...i thought i would add this link for the spindle nut set and hub prices for those who read this later...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1867081&postcount=457

 

[gunzmith]

Yes it is still crucial. I will go and say that you have more wrong.

My D44 is doing the same thing on the left side. I have to tighten mine every 2-3 months. I believe that i have a spindle prob.

my 1991 explorer 4x4 hubs work loose on the spindles ever 2-3 months and i have to tighten em up too,the lockin nut dont lock em like it should but it dont seem to hurt the bearings,..both side work loose too

 

[rickcdewitt]

thought i'de post this here-

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Bearing Inner Locknut - Manual Locking Hub*
Torque Limits - 47 Nm (35 ft lb)-then back off 90* and snug by hand


Bearing Outer Locknut - Manual Locking Hub
Torque Limits - 203 Nm (150 ft lb)-you are better off aiming for 200lb/ft by using a couple feet of cheater and a buddy to hold on the socket.

if the lock washer comes out of the groove put it in a vise to egg it where the prong goes in the keyway deeper.

i used to have a lot of bearing issues with my wide rims before using this method,now no probs at all.





Bearing Nut - Automatic Locknut Hub*
Torque Limits - 47 Nm (35 ft lb)-then back off 90*and snug by hand



Wheel Lug Nuts**


Torque Limits - 135 Nm (100 ft lb)-don't exceed or you can warp the front rotors very easily

NOTES:



*After tightening to specified torque, back off the nut 1/4 turn (90°). After backing off the nut, retighten to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb)

*Torque specifications are for clean, dry bolt and nut threads. Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts

 

[LBarr2002]

I think your torque specs are a little incomplete there...

I could probably find it again, might be in the Bronco II Haynes manual or the instructions that come with Mile Marker spindle kits. The instructions I'm remembering for the inner lock nut say:

-Torque to (50 ft lbs) I think, but it may have been 35.
-Back off 90 degrees
-tighten to 16 INCH LBS.

Outer nut 150 lb ft.

Oh, and I don't have a torque wrench that'll measure 16 inch pounds, so I usually just let the weight of the wrench tighten it and say 'Eh...that's close enough'

 

[rickcdewitt]

I think your torque specs are a little incomplete there...

I usually just let the weight of the wrench tighten it and say 'Eh...that's close enough'

thought i'de post this here-


NOTES:



*After tightening to specified torque, back off the nut 1/4 turn (90°). After backing off the nut, retighten to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb)

*Torque specifications are for clean, dry bolt and nut threads. Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts

its at the bottom ,you didn't notice.but yeah i just take the extra clearance out by hand like you.

i stand by what i said about 200lb/ft on the outer lock nut.

 

[Tbars4]

...I second that...200ft pounds and the reasons why is ehoed thru out this thread..

....Where have you been hiding Rick???.Hopefully not on another forum..:shifty_ey

 

[HahnsB2]

I crank that outer as tight as I can (around 200 Ft/lbs). The inner I do just hand tight with the socket, never once had a bearing issue with my D28 or my D35.

 

[Tbars4]

...Just an update for those who see this page:

...My issue that was related to this thread, turned out to be a wore out rotor..Burns had the same problem on his Dana 44 and I believe his fix was the rotor also..

...Carry on..

 

[Burns]

I seen this bumped back to the top and was thinking that this cant be happening again..... Thank goodness its not happening again.


Yes mine was a rotor also. Both sides actually needed replacing. I was relieved to see you with your fix. I was getting ready to order new spindles, bearings, locking nuts, ect to fix it.

 

[Tbars4]

...Mine is A ok..

...I do need to rework the dual shocks now that I have been aligned for about 4 months and the bearings are perfect...or....................I could just wait for xmas and maybe Santa will bring me my Dana 44 with high steer..

 

[Burns]

Im hoping to find a set of 60's before the end of the year.....


Hoping