The stage 8 will not work, it IS the hub that is too small.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43165&stc=1&d=1193611295
I forgot the code for pics so click on that.
Also on spindles I've noticed the following (and made some mistakes) so this is everythign I know in a nutshell
1) if you tighten the inside too much you will basically weld your bearings to your spindle. You gotta be a dumbass to get it this tight (like I was about 7 years ago)
2) usually the loose outer nut is from the drivers side because the wheel spins in the direction to loosen the wheel
3) when they back off it will typically wear the tab off the middle washer, usually not enough to ruin the threads on the spindle, but this can occur
4) a really bad scenario isn't losing a wheel, but your c-clip on the outer axle is basically mushroomed by the splined washer that goes over the shaft. I've had to cut the washer off because it has been so damaged.
5) I no longer use a torq wrench, I use wisdom and the force. For a small fee I will share this.
I'm used to doing this WITH the caliper on, note there will be much less resistance with the caliper off.
While tightening the inner nut with the socket and wrench I spin the rotor while seating the bearings, get it just about to the point where it won't spin.
Back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and rotor will spin loosly and free.
Tighten just a teeeeeny weeeny bit so that when you spin the rotor like the wheel from "Wheel of Fortune" (or wait, is it the one from "Price is Right"?) there is some resistance, but it will spin about an inch or two on it's own.
Insert washer with tab on spindle and line up hole on stud from inner nut (sometimes you need to flip the washer over to get it to line up. Make an effort to place that tab towards the left of the groove so it will not loosen up at all.
Take the outer nut and tighten down as much as you can. At this point I grab a punch or screwdriver and wedge that in the groove from the inner between the lug studs. In theory I'm almost loosening the inner while tightening the outer. The idea here is to keep an eye on the inner, sometimes you will see it tighten as you tighten the outer. I will smack it back into position if it does shift.
(side note from BKennedy, another Forum regular who has a lot of time on a D35 TTB- he barely tightens the inner, then watches it tighten while he spins the outer. I have not tried this theory)
On my nuts the tab and little prong were both broken off. Upon my install mine have held up pretty good. The main point is to keep an eye on it (like every 500 miles) especially if you are rattling it wheelin or running some wobbly vibrating tires. I've had a lot less issues when I started tightening bearings by feel over what a spec book says. I may be 5 lbs over, I may be 25, but if you go too tight you'll seize up the bearings within about 15 miles. That's pretty close to home to get it fixed LOL.
Also heard Green lock-tite was the most high strenth.
BONUS ROUND- check your races if they spin in the rotor the rotor is deemed "bad"
Replace rotor....OR....backyard fix. Take out race, pound about ten dimples on rotor around where the race sits to "dimple" and raise the surface. Slop some green locktite on the surface. Install new races, pound in and hope that you did it right. Races shouldn't spin, they are pretty easy to pound out with a selection of punches and a nice 3lbs hammer.
