Pugly | Page 13 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly :D

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd

I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.










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Thanks for the info!

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dang....are you putting an ls in there?

Looking for a locker for it. :)

That looks like a LS carrier to me. AFAIK, that limit your lunchbox locker choices. Are you looking at full lockers (with carrier)? Maybe like that Eaton one that is a LS when unlocked and locker when you flip a switch.


would rather have Thick Black Fluid then off White fluid in there :)

It cleaned up well. Took a bit to drain, then wiped it out with rags, and brake cleaner. Nothing wrong inside, everything looks good to go. :D

Spent some time with the grinder & wire wheels cleaning it up. No leaks anywhere on it, all seals are good. :thumbsup:

Rotors are thick and will most likely have them turned. Slap some new pads in it and call it good.

Still have to hit up the local hardware store for the E-brake retrofit with the turnbuckle mod. Cant wait for this thing to get installed. 12 mpg sucks with 33" & 3.27 gears! :(

We had a beautiful January day, so this afternoon was spent outside prepping the new(er) 8.8.

Pass side had a stripped out lug stud, so the axle had to come out and remove/install a new one.



Figured while I was at it, to install a new diff shaft bolt. Couldn't hurt anything :)

Removing the bolt. 8mm on the shaft bolt, 19mm on the ring gear bolt to hold it from turning.


New bolt. Got a spare for the tool box as they are cheap, but when you need one, you really need one!


Now this axle cover had a fill plug installed by the previous owner. I checked it out, and looks good.


Backside showing the weld and grind.


The reason why. Stock fill plug looks like it was froze, and got mangled trying to remove it. It has a tack weld holding it in place.


Had the rotors turned, and installed new pads.


Got it painted, and ready for install tomorrow. :bounce:


I picked up the hardware for the E-brake cable mod as well. Used a Fel-Pro gasket & Ultra Black RTV, let it set up & filled it with 75-140 Synthetic blend.

Another 60* day ahead, so I am taking full advantage of it, and getting this thing installed!

Stay tuned folks! More to come! :D

Got the 2nd gen 4.10 disc axle installed yesterday.


Finished up the little stuff today. Got the E-brake hooked up, but it needs a little tweaking. Getting the cable the correct length when adding a turnbuckle to it takes some patience. Will get it 100% tomorrow. Needs to be shortened and a wedge dealy installed. It is tight, but it is maxed out.


Had to change the speedo VSS gear as it was 10 mph off. Went from a 16 tooth to a 19 tooth. Glad I have a bunch of those gears laying around! The stock frame mount works just fine, I dont know what all the talk about was for this mod, but there was no change in the 94 bracket from the 2nd gens bracket.


Next on the to do list is, new rear shocks, and some rust convertor underneath as it is showing surface rust now. I did the frame rails last spring, and still looks the same. :)

Driving impressions, vs the 3.27s??????

Have only burned a 1/4 tank since the swap, but there is definitely MPG improvement. Will get a final number after a re-fill.

As far as feel/performance, it is as expected. Better response, Better shifting, Better at holding a gear on a hill ascent, and RPM's are closer (still not perfect) to a proper range for cruising speeds.

Slight upgrade for Pugly. :)

Since it got a new dvd/cd player, new speakers in all doors, the sound has never been better but, it was still lacking a little something. So the decision to install this was made since this rig sees the most time on the road. I think the Black Hole will be ok with this, since this was going to be installed in it originally.


Brand spanking new JL Audio 8" subwoofer powered by a brand new Kenwood amp in a 2000 sub enclosure.

Used some self tapping screws to mount the amp. Drilled some holes in the casing lips that protrude from the molding proscess, zip tied the 18 ga wires to the holes to keep it tucked up and safe. Used a wire clip to take up the slack and leave a little slack at the same time on the face side of the enclosure.


Its wired up for the most part, just need to install it, and run the power, remote power, ground it, and RCA's. I made a nice ground cable out of 3 sections of 16 ga with a ring terminal to attach to the chassis.

Now the deal with this subwoofer is that it was about 1/4" too deep from the massive magnet on it. Would not sit flush to bolt it to the enclosure opening because it was hitting the backside. So this sub comes with a plastic ring that goes on the face side around the speaker, and the bolt holes line up with the holes on the speaker cage. Removed it, and ran it under the speaker for a nice tight shim. It seals all the way around the speaker and the screws that hold the speaker on, also go thru the holes on the ring. Nice & tight fit. :)

Here you can see the sub raised by the ring shim.


I didn't have the power wire/100amp fuse, to run to the battery yet, so as soon as I get it, it will be installed.

As always, dig your work! Nice idea with the zip ties drilled in the box.

Thanks a bunch. :)

Just made sense to have this in this rig. The 95 really doesn't get used much and would be wasted sitting in it.

The addition of the 6.5" door speakers was amazing in sound difference, and they even have a nice punch to them, but not the deep deep bass this can provide.

Been searching for a nice deal on a overhead video monitor for this system. Someday that will happen to complete this set up. :)

For the longest time, the front door panel lights and the front overhead courtesy light doesn't work. I thought it might be a simple thing like a fuse had blown, and never really checked into it.

I decided to have a look see to get them working again.

What does work...Front overhead map lights with switches. Rear cargo light when doors are opened.

Checked all fuses in dash, and in PWD. All good, none blown.

Replaced both door bulbs and the center courtesy bulb. Side map bulbs work with the switches.

Nothing still. :dunno:

I checked both front door switches. They both work. The rear cargo light works with the opening & closing of the front doors.

Checked to see if the headlight switch still turns & clicks for the courtesy lights. It does.

So...WTF could it possibly be? Would the headlight switch be the problem? I can't remember if it controls the door panel lights as well as the dome light. :scratch:


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