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Pugly

The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly :D

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd


I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Shocks:
Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.


Pugsnewshoes_zpsf609e609.jpg

puglynewbrushguard1.jpg

94frontpassprofile.jpg

puglyrti2.jpg

puglyrearrti1.jpg

puglyrti1.jpg

aftermathmudbath2.jpg

puglysnewseats.jpg

cbantbracket.jpg
 



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Thanks!

The Continuous hinge would work, but I wouldn't do the mortise hinges.

I added a hasp hinge with a hitch pin clip to the swing out door, attached to the dash to keep it closed from the bumping around when off road. So that piano style hinge would work great now that I don't need the self closing hinges anymore. Good idea, and thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

Now, about those 1210 U-joints.......:scratch:

I have the Spicer 760-x for the drive shafts to install already, but since the front is getting torn down, I wanted to rebuild the axle shafts too.

Edit: O'Reilly shows both the 1210 & 1310 for the EX. The 2 sets I looked at were 1210's, the other 2 sets I just looked at were 1310's. Must be the dif between the Smaller Ranger axles like Maniak mentioned. I will just get the Non-greasable super strength precision brand 371-1310 series.
 



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Thanks!

<snip>

Now, about those 1210 U-joints.......:scratch:

I have the Spicer 760-x for the drive shafts to install already, but since the front is getting torn down, I wanted to rebuild the axle shafts too.

We crossed posts above.. But AFAIK, and my notes show, 5-760x is correct for the cold forged front shaft u-joints (3).

The 5-785X is what I have written down for the drive shaft u-joints.

~Mark
 






Holy jeebus! I got those front 760-x joints months ago, and thought I had them for the front drive shaft. I hate getting old and forgetting things. I guess I got them for the axles already. Only problem is I only got 2 sets...ack! Welp, back to the Dana shop for another set. :rolleyes:
 






Front axles should be 1310s, the others listed are likley what a Dana 28 has, for some reason autoparts store show both as option even when looking up explorers, which never had Dana 28 front. Thank god!! LOL while you're in there you might as well do c clip elimnator and thank yourself later, very simple. use Echo spring part # 69621655730, full details on ranger station tech library. Spring is only a couple dollars.
 






Front axles should be 1310s, the others listed are likley what a Dana 28 has, for some reason autoparts store show both as option even when looking up explorers, which never had Dana 28 front. Thank god!! LOL while you're in there you might as well do c clip elimnator and thank yourself later, very simple. use Echo spring part # 69621655730, full details on ranger station tech library. Spring is only a couple dollars.

Thank you sir.

I picked up the spring and collar a while back for the eliminator mod, & plan on using them when all this other stuff happens. :)

Very weird they would list the 1210 series to begin with like you say. Way to confuse a person and set up returns. :thumbdwn:
 






Found these little gems at the store today, and couldn't pass them up :)

Whats this you ask?

ledremoteswitch.jpg


Thats the wireless remote switch for these bad mama jamma's!

ledpodson.jpg


Thats the night shot (sorry it's blurry), here is a daytime shot, these LED pods are super bright!

wirelessledpod.jpg


There removable as they are held on with strong velcro, just as the remote wireless switch is. I can take them off and place where I want them if I feel like it. Can come in handy when camping or something to that effect.
 






What store? Ingenious stuff coming out these days. I like!
 












Sweet! Will be checking them out and the Stanley tool set supposedly made by Mac. Thanks! Lookin Good gman!!
 






So the TTB work started today.

Managed to remove the 3rd member, but had to stop there.

The used 4:10 3rd member I have needs work still. Upon cleaning it, I found the Dr side seal was busted (spring was off & in half), the spider gears and the cross shaft are missing, so I need to steal those from the stock 3:27 diff.

This means removing the carrier on both diffs, to build one complete. Then get a new seal pressed in. This might take a while. :rolleyes:

The U-joints all look perfect on the axles, so I think I am just going to let them stay put.

The C-clip eliminator mod will be installed, as will new red urethane R/A bushings.

Cleaning the backside of the diff arm is going to be a PITA!

Note to self: Don't place your hand in a pinch joint when somebody is using their entire body to loosen a stuck bolt! That frigging smarts!
 






Dodged a bullet here, :eek:

After removing the stock D35 3rd member and taking out the carrier, I found a nice surprise.

d35cracks2.jpg

d35cracks1.jpg

d35cracks3.jpg


I think one more wheeling trip, and it might have let loose.

Everything inside the carrier looked brand new, with no heat blemishes or blue spots of any kind. Removed the roll pin on the shaft, and it looked like it hasn't been touched since it was made.

Been working hard on this rig for a few days now. More pics and updates to come soon. :D
 






Wow. Is that a different style carrier then in the 2nd gens? To me that looks like it is a 2nd gen pumpkin... What causes the cracking?
 






Wow. Is that a different style carrier then in the 2nd gens? To me that looks like it is a 2nd gen pumpkin... What causes the cracking?

Completely different. All though the 1st & 2nd gens both have a D35, there different housings.

I suspect heat over time, and the occasional smacking on top of objects caused the cracks. Since they are just made of aluminum, they really cant take too much abuse. I need to get a guard for it in the future if this rig sees much more off road use.

In other news...the 4:10 gears are in, the c-clip eliminator is installed, and the front end is completely put back together. :thumbsup:

I still have to add fluids, and I think I might get a new rotor, the bearings seem messed up to me on one of them.
 






Well sweet!!! Sounds like you're almost ready!!

sux about the housing, hmm....
 












Ended up getting a new rotor, new bearings, and new seal for the drivers side. The old one was a mess, the races were chewed up and put a slight groove on the spindle. Took the grinder to it with 120 grit paper to smooth it out, new set up fit nicely.

puglysnewrotorsetup.jpg


Here is the C-clip eliminator before install

puglyscclipeliminatorkit.jpg


After install

puglyseliminatorinstalled.jpg
 






How to remove the TTB 3rd member

Intro:

Since the rear axle was swapped for 4:10 gears and disc brake upgrade, the front had to be swapped as well, I figured this little mini write up here couldn't hurt to have.

To get the 3rd member off takes some time, patience, and a lot of back breaking work. The 1st time is always hard, as you have to deal with aged parts, frozen bolts, grime, etc..

I suggest to soak as many parts as you can in advance with PB Blaster before actually doing this. ;)

1) Place rig on stands on frame behind the Radius Arms

2) Place floor jack under the pumpkin to hold in place. Remove-Wheels, hubs, calipers, rotors, sway bar links, anti lock sensors (if equipped), Spindles, Dr side shock & coil spring, and pull Dr side axle shaft out thru the knuckle opening. Good time to place a catch pan for the fluids leaking out of the Diff axle openings. Fluid will leak under the dif, and out the end of the beam. Might need a couple pans.

3) Loosen both R/A mounts on drivers side beam, then remove R/A nut, washer, plastic cap, & bushing. While under there, go ahead and remove the front drive shaft.

4) There are other methods to removing the R/A, but this is the easy path I chose. :)

Using a come along winch connected to the drivers side beam, and an anchor point, slowly pull the R/A out of it's mount until it is free. The floor jack should be able to roll freely as the beam is pulled forward.

ra2.jpg


My anchor point :D

ra3.jpg


RA1.jpg

ra4.jpg

ra5.jpg


5) Getting to the pinch bolt:

pnchbolt1.jpg


Where I am pointing is where it is located.

pinchboltlocation.jpg


Grab the bolt end of the R/A and pull it towards you until you have clear sight of the pinch bolt.

ra6.jpg

pincboltclearedforremoval.jpg


Remove the bolt and nut, now that you have access to it.

6) Remove the rubber boot on the slip joint between the intermediate short shaft, and the outer pass side shaft.

7) Pull outer shaft out thru the hole on the pass side knuckle

8) Remove all 10 bolts holding the 3rd member to the beam, pry open and drain fluids

9) Pull 3rd member straight back to remove, taking the short shaft with it, ease it to the ground.(Once the C-clip eliminator is done, the inner shaft can be removed before removing the 3rd member).

That's it. It is now ready to work on. :)
 






Bit of work to do with the newer 3rd member with 4:10 gears before it can be installed.

Here is what it looked like when I got it. Notice it is missing the spider gears and the cross shaft. My guess this was used with a locker at one time, as I never thought to ask why they were missing.

d353rdmemberwith4_10smissingspidergears.jpg


Bit of a mess right? No worries, the aluminum cleans right up easy enough.

new3rdmembercleanedup.jpg


When that was done, the axle seals got replaced.

Passenger side

passsideshaftseal.jpg


Drivers side

driverssideshaftseal.jpg


Now for the carrier. Removed the caps after they were marked with a punch top, bottom, left & right. This is very important to do as each diff housing has a matching set of caps just for itself. There is a "V" mark on each cap, but they we're hard to see with all the red goop on them. The corresponding "V" is on the housing next to the caps to match them up. One V points up/down. the other V points to the side.

The caps & thrush washers set aside in a safe place.

carriercapsandthrustwashers.jpg


Here is all the parts that were missing that have to be installed.

spidergearsandinternals.jpg


Removed the carrier and placed the ring gear on the bottom so the spider gears can be installed. First are the axle shaft spline gears. These just slide in place on each side along with a thin thrust washer.

spidershaftgears.jpg


To install the other 2 smaller gears and the cup washers, simply slip each on one side thru the opening on the carrier while holding the cup washers onto the gear itself. Now don't let go of them as they will fall out.

spidergearsinstall1.jpg


Now turn them both at the same time, pinching the centers so they can roll until they are inside the carrier and can hold themselves in.

spidergearsinstall2.jpg

spidergearsinstall3.jpg


Now the carrier shaft goes in thru the holes in the carrier. Pushing the shaft in easy until the holes are lined up for the roll pin. the roll pin holds all this together, so get it right the 1st time!

carriershaftinstalled-1.jpg


Roll pin installed with a flat end punch pin, tapped ever so gently until it is flush.

carriershaftrollpininstalled.jpg


Carrier is now ready to go in the housing. Using some red medium synthetic grease, I buttered one side of the thick thrush washers, to help hold them in place on each side. This helps a ton when trying to get the carrier in place.

thrustwasherinistall.jpg


After placing the bearing races on the both ends of the carrier, the carrier is placed in the housing (with the ring gear to the passenger side). Going straight in as much as humanly possible eases this part. Making sure the pinion & ring gears are meshed, a dead blow hammer was used to tap it in place.

completecarrierinstall.jpg


Now for the caps. Going by the markings I made, they got placed back on and torqued to 57 lbs. Specs are 47-67.

carriercapsinstalled.jpg


Thats it, this 3rd member is ready to be installed. :)

Getting it back in the TTB Arm.

Since I did the eliminator clip mod, this is installed without the center axle, but if you haven't done that, & your doing this, now is the time to install that axle and the c-clip back in place. ;)

Slipping the pinch bolt back in place, I used it to help place the 3rd member back in the arm. Lifting the housing up at an angle, it was then pushed straight in (still holding it at an angle) until the hooks on the housing were on the pinch bolt. then it was used as a hing, to swing the housing in place, and a tube of Ultra=Black RTV was used on both the TTB Arm, and the housing lip to form a good seal.

Lining up the holes from the front side, the bolts were installed then tightened down in a star pattern.

Letting the RTV dry overnight before adding the synthetic (75-90) fluids. During the drying time, the axles were installed, and the rest of the parts were put back together.

It was finished off with a 4 ft x 5/16" ID rubber fuel line for the breather tube, ran up high into the engine compartment to keep water out.

Sounds like a lot of steps, but in reality, this doesn't take much time at all for this part of this job.

If I can do it, So can you! :thumbsup:
 






Your gunna love it!
 



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Lookin' Good Gman!

So, when are you going to fab up a 4x4Junkie style bash guard?
 






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