Pugly | Page 28 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly :D

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd

I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.










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Finally, after 9 weeks, we have a semi clear weekend. :rolleyes:

1st item to take care of is the axle C clip eliminator spring replacement, & new D44 Spindle nut kit install.

Got the jackstands placed, compressor fired up, and as I was about to take the tires off, My Boss arrives with a work file that needs immediate attention. Seriously? :banghead:

3 hours later.... (!#$&*#@@!!!!)

Not enough time left in the day to start on what I wanted to get accomplished, so I just installed the D44 spindle nut kit. My torque wrench only goes to 150#, so I added a little oomph with the long breaker bar for good measure. :eek:

Pugly's BFF needs a little work done, so I'm done with her today.

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I wish you many more clear weekends. :D

I wish you many more clear weekends. :D

Thank you.... But I'm sure they will happen, just in time for it to be 100*+ for a couple months. :rolleyes:

Been trying to get the work done on my time off, and go camping/wheeling, but this area has seen precipitation in biblical proportions this year.

By the time I get a break in the weather, do the work, it will be too hot, to want to hit the trails this summer.

Brian1 Bling getting some POR15 treatment.


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Broke the door handle, and the plastic center on the door panel. Whoops! :banghead:

So I ordered new replacements from LMC Truck. Figured a 5 minute fix. Nope. :crazy:

Apparently Ford melts the plastic studs on the center pc to the door panel, instead of using screws or slide in clips, etc... Thanks a bunch Ford Engineers. :thumbdwn:

So I used the Dremel to grind off the old plastic welds and open the holes back up. I got the new part to fit in nicely. :thumbsup:

So now, I just need to figure a good way to melt the new long plastic studs to fasten it back up. :rolleyes:

All I can think of is ruining my solder iron to do this with. :scratch:

So I used my HD soldering gun, and it worked like a charm. :thumbsup: Acetone cleaned the tip easily.

Pushing down the center of the plastic studs with the soldering tip, it melted it down to the panel. I moved the melted plastic around with the gun tip to make an ugly button. I used a couple of squeeze clamps to make sure it was tight to the panel. That's it, easy breezy, all better.

I didn't paint the LMC part. It comes in gray, and they sell matching paint for it, but I don't care about the color not matching, just more about it working. LOL!


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Boy do I feel like a jackass.

I broke down the shipping box that the door part came in, to dispose of, and a little bag of clips fell out. It was under the inside flap, out of sight. :confused:

There wasn't any directions with this part, so I had no idea these came with it, and came up with my own solution to install (soldering gun) by looking at how the stock part was installed at the factory.

Oh well, I like my install better as I know it is tight, and won't come apart. :D


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Weekend project.

Day 1:

Sand, wash and dry, mask, & prime coat.

(Then decide not to use the uploader here anymore so the pics don't turn on me.)


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Weekend Project.
Day 2:

All done. 1 medium coat, 1 heavy final coat. Hands and Hootus are liner free. :D

Waiting on the floor trim pc to cure completely before installed.

This stuff dries in 30 mins to the touch, 2 hrs to re-coat, and takes 24 hrs to fully cure.

It will be nice to be able to slide all the tool bags, storage box, materials, etc... easier. I had a pc of plywood over the floor. It was better then carpet, but was still a pain as it was not fully covering the floor, and I was constantly snagging items on it. The floor hooks are openly accessible now too. I use the heck out them holding stuff down with straps/bungees. Super easy to clean this liner, and thanks to Rustoleum putting this stuff in a spray can, it will touch up effortlessly if needed.

(figured out I have to take the pics with the cell sideways like taking a video so the uploader won't turn them)


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Another weekend approaching, and another issue to diagnose.

Vibrations on acceleration only, and starts at higher speeds. Can feel it slightly in the steering wheel while cruising at 45 mph, but intensifies as it accelerates. Engine idles smoothly, and doesn't seem to be missing without a load on it.

Plugs & wires are less then a year old, but can't rule them out. I got a new set of Motorcraft plugs to put in and see if that's the issue. If not, then wires.

If those do not resolve the issue, the only other thing I can think of is driveline problems, such as bad U-joints.

Always something with these rigs!

Well, it wasn't the plugs or wires. That was a waste of money. :rolleyes:

Crawled under the rig, and didn't see anything visually wrong. All U-joints are intact, no slop in the shafts.

Took the wheels off, and back on. Torqued them to 125#. Set tire PSI to 35#.

The rear diff just had the fluid changed, I know that's good. Upon inspection, all was well.

This only begins at the 40-45 mph mark, and only when throttle is applied. Coasts nice and smooth. I really hope it is not the transmission giving pressure pulsing from blockage. It shifts perfectly, but never know. :scratch:

Is it possible a drive shaft weight threw its self off?
Were all suspiciously quiet because we don't have anything to say that's actually helpful.

Is it possible a drive shaft weight threw its self off?
Were all suspiciously quiet because we don't have anything to say that's actually helpful.

It sure could have. I don't know if it had one, and if it did, where it was. Without knowing, I have no way to know if it came off or not. I looked at it to see if it had a clean spot, but didn't see one. :dunno:

I would be relieved if that is all it was. I guess when the other rig is able to move (apart for painting), I can take the shaft in for a balance check.

I appreciate the feedback! I feel as if I am talking to myself most of the time. :crazy: LOL!!

Upon thinking on this a bit, wouldn't the unbalanced shaft still cause a vibration on or off the throttle? It is only present under throttle.

I'm always interested, and am sure others are also.
Some of these issues are just so hard to diagnose, its a painfull and sometimes expensive process.

Does this vibration increase if you are accelerating up hill?

Transmission mount? Can you move the transfer case much by hand?

Haven't noticed a difference going uphill. It only happens when I get to speed of around 40-45, and with throttle. From that point up, it is present. Let of the throttle, it instantly goes away, tap the throttle, it's back, and can feel it in the steering wheel.

I haven't attempted to move/push on the t-case. When I get a chance I will do that, and see if the trans mount rubber broke. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the ideas!

So, the Trans mount seems fine.

I think since we have a bit of a warm up coming next week, I am going to drop the drive shafts and check them out. I will install new U-joints.

"If" I feel up to it, I might pull the front Pumpkin, change the u-joints on the axles, and install the Locker that has been waiting on me patiently. lol

I think this time around I am going to grind the R/A mount rivets off and replace with bolts.

So... After work today, I removed the rear drive shaft. Front U-joint had one cap with all the pin bearings missing. :eek:

I installed a set of NAPA premium sealed units on both ends. Ran out of daylight, so I will get it back in tomorrow.

Oh.... Blew up my new 29 gal compressor while removing the front unit. It's still under warranty, so I will exchange it. But man... what a PITA to do that. It's easier to unload in a box, then it is to load assembled out of the box. Ack! :banghead:

Hopefully the vibration under throttle is gone. Guess I will know tomorrow! :dunno:


(Need a fresh coat of paint on the workbench. I have been pretty hard on it lately. LOL! )


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I'm betting you found the issue.
Congratulations. Ah, and be careful with your back moving that compressor round.