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Pugly

The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly :D

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd


I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Shocks:
Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.


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Ive been watching some youtube videos on how to make a homemade smoke machine to pump smoke into the vac lines to find leaks. Some of em are really simple and theres a good chance you’d have everything you need to put one together.
 



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That's not a bad idea Chad. Thanks for that. I have a cheapo transfer pump I can rig a cigar into. Now to look where the best place to put the hose onto the intake.

I am starting to think it has a grounding issue tho. This rig has always had an issue with it. The circuit that the EGR runs off of, is tied into the injectors, and is a ground fault system. The pigtail has been changed to accept the newer style DPFE, and might be the issue. My multi meter is messed up, and I have to go buy another today, to make sure. Set on 20v DC, it reads .39 at the battery on both rigs. POS. lol
 






One of the easiest i saw to make that put out lots of smoke was soldering iron mounted into the lid if a jar, inside was some old cotton socks soaked to the gills in baby oil. The compressors we use to air our tires back up looked like they’d work well, my plan was to just install a valve stem next to the soldering iron in the jar lid to push the smoke through. A cigar sounds much better than baby oil though!!
 






























So with the temps scorching, and the interior reaching 130*, the A/C is pretty much needed to survive a heat stroke. Well....

The A/C has been leaking, and I have been adding a can about every 2 weeks, and it always goes warm when you don't want it to. so today before adding another can, I added a can of stop leak. Directly after, adding a can of 134a so that sealant doesn't clog the port, like the directions say to do.

Well... Upon adding the can of 134a, the compressor started acting weird. By weird, I mean when it engaged, it about killed the engine, as it stumbled, then recovered when the clutch disengaged. :( I managed to get 1 full can of 134a in it, but that took a long time, and so slow, that the can never even got cold to the touch. Double :(

Needless to say, I believe I need a new compressor. Either that sealant glued something together, or it was just time. Rockauto has new Compressor kits for the same price as parts store compressor only pricing. I just replaced everything in the kits, and not sure if I should do it again or not. Then there is the condenser. The compressor didn't blow up or seize (yet), and not sure if I should replace it too. :dunno: If it seized, I would automatically change it, in case of metal bits was introduced.

Might quit my job, and get a mall cop job, just for the climate control.

Always something with this old M*****f*****!!
 






I'm crossing my fingers it's not a big deal. But when before have the o-rings been replaced in the quick connections? Those are the most likely leaks, besides the compressor seals or a line hole etc. I used to always buy connection locks for my Fords, and replace the o-rings before doing the first AC service(vacuum and refill). I haven't done my 98 yet, and it needs a little freon. So I need to get to doing those o-rings myself.
 






Yeah, a buddy and I did the old driveway mechanic service on it 2 years ago. We replaced the main line, the accumulator, and the orifice tube. We used the new greenie O rings and the lube they called for. We used the vac on it, and used a new manifold to charge it. It lasted all that summer, but the next summer, it was low, and needed some Freon. Now this summer, it needed a couple cans to get it working again, but only lasted so long, and another can or two was added as needed. We messed something up for sure. That's what happens when you try to save money on some things. Damn amateurs! lol

I just can't seem to keep up with the maintenance on this rig anymore. I really need to replace it with something way newer. It's so beyond nickel & dime me to death, it ain't funny. I just have to get over the attachment I have to it, and that isn't easy. If I re-read this thread from the beginning, I would cry at how much work & $$ I have thrown at it over the years.
 






I know how that feels. I loved my 93 Limited, but the front BJ's were shot and I had already welded up the rear brake backing plates(the linings metal backing plates wore through the main pieces). The engine and trans were great while I had it but they soon would need more serious work. The 99 I rebuilt I wanted to drop the whole 93 body onto, but the serious cutting of the front inner structure was more than I could do, and I had a few of the front end pieces to rebuild the 99.

The chronic stuff is what you hate to have to fight a lot, like the spindles you have mentioned etc. The 98-01 is still the best Ford SUV I think, I'd take one of those(in very good shape), over any other SUV. If you really wanted a change, see what they cost where you are, when I hunted my last 98, prices were $1500 low side(asking), and $4500(low mileage 100k like new). Condition is key, don't buy anything that has a ton of things messed up, not working etc. You want a nice interior(cleanable), well kept drivetrain, few leaks, and most obsolete parts not trashed.
 






This would be a great rig for someone wanting a 2nd play rig. Lots of great mods done to it already, and it does very well off road. I will take a huge loss on it selling as is, and would get more for it, parting it out. Sadly I just have way to many other things going on to take on such an endeavor.

Pretty sure a newish pick up would be my next daily. Just makes sense to have one, with my line of work, and my self dependent nature. I'm used to poor mpg already . Lol
 






Sorry to hear about the ac.
I wonder if you could drain the system and pull the orifice tube to inspect?
With that screen on the orifice tube Im betting you would know if your compressor is cooked by the build-up on the tube.

I feel your pain, as I have no motor, but yet I have replaced my accumulator, orifice tube, condenser, and have a new pump laying on the garage floor. My adventure started when I had noticed reduced performance and decided to replace my orifice tube only to be told by a helpful member here told me that the black on the tube was teflon from the compressor,
 






Since the system would have to be drained to change the compressor anyways, that wouldn't hurt at all to inspect the tube first.

I did read last night that if the system is overcharged, it will blow warm air and cause compressor issues too. I need to get a set of gauges on it before I do anything.

I always thought any black crud was called the black death, and the entire system needs flushed or changed out?
 






yes, the black death is what I had on my orifice tube. I was told the same thing.
Lets hope there is no black death on your orifice tube when you find the time and desire to check.
 






As if this rig doesn't create enough problems on it's own, the crackhead squirrels here,
decided to chew through the smaller fuel tank hose. I filled it up today, and fuel began gushing out, until the main fill tube emptied. Old guy filling up behind me, started yelling at me. lol Had to get the spilled fuel containment plan put into action at the station. Talk about embarrassing.

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I just don't get what rodents could find enticing about a fuel hose. Geez, its hard enough keeping our rigs running.
 






I don't get it either. Last year, they are thru the line & wires, on the other rig. Crackhead cracker squirrels.

I wrapped it with some vinyl tape for the night. Think I will rewrap with silicone repair tape, until I get to a salvage yard.
 









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