Question on 15x10's NON offroad (Sporttruck)

Hi all

I had to change my User ID as I lost my account over at hotmail. Some of you may remember me from my mountaineer restoration thread. Hi all!

Question.

I'm looking to run a set of 15x10's. My current wheels are gen 1 explorer wheels 15x7's 4.5 backspacing 12mm offset all round. My truck is lowered, about 4 inches in the rear, maybe 4 and 1/2 in the front. I know a lot of guys are running 15x10's with offroad setups (lifted, offroad tires, etc.) But what about the street guys? The Backspacing on offroad explorers/mountaineers is way too aggressive for a lowered expo/mounty. I've searched this forum and google for about the past week or so with no info.

I took some measurements and it seems if I relocate the emergency brake line, I may be able to squeeze a 15x10 with 6.5'BS. I really wanted the 5.5BS but that pushes the wheel out almost 2 inches towards the fender from where it already is now. I'm trying for hellaflush, not hellagringo (no pun intended) I already ordered one wheel for fitment purposes which should be here tomorrow but anxiety is killing me at this point. The rear tires are 275x60x15's which I plan to use on the 10's. Any thoughts?

 

[Turdle]

I am concerned about the clearance between the tire and upper ball joint area, You might be able to grind about 1/8" material for clearance but I wouldn't remove more than that. As long as the ball joints are tight, all you need is to see daylight between the tire and upper ball joint mount. As long as all parts are in spec this space will not change during the cycling of the suspension.


Some steering "locks" might be needed to eliminate rub on the front sway bar.

Also, check tire clearance at the rear inner wheel well area at full stuff.

 

[Carguy3J]

Hi all

I had to change my User ID as I lost my account over at hotmail. Some of you may remember me from my mountaineer restoration thread. Hi all!

Question.

I'm looking to run a set of 15x10's. My current wheels are gen 1 explorer wheels 15x7's 4.5 backspacing 12mm offset all round. My truck is lowered, about 4 inches in the rear, maybe 4 and 1/2 in the front. I know a lot of guys are running 15x10's with offroad setups (lifted, offroad tires, etc.) But what about the street guys? The Backspacing on offroad explorers/mountaineers is way too aggressive for a lowered expo/mounty. I've searched this forum and google for about the past week or so with no info.

I took some measurements and it seems if I relocate the emergency brake line, I may be able to squeeze a 15x10 with 6.5'BS. I really wanted the 5.5BS but that pushes the wheel out almost 2 inches towards the fender from where it already is now. I'm trying for hellaflush, not hellagringo (no pun intended) I already ordered one wheel for fitment purposes which should be here tomorrow but anxiety is killing me at this point. The rear tires are 275x60x15's which I plan to use on the 10's. Any thoughts?

They make a tool to simulate various size wheels/tires, for fitment purposes:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-01201/

Are you sure you really want 15x10's? That's a REALLY wide wheel. I used to use 15x10's on my dirt-track stock car. I have a feeling they will rub, especially on the front.

Also, if you are going from 235/75/R15 stock, to a 275 you would need a 65 series, not 60, in order to maintain the same rolling circumference as the 235/75 and not mess up your speedo and/or transmission shift points.

Using a 275/60 will result in a 7.5-8% error in speed. The speedometer will indicate, and the computer will think that you are going approx 8% faster then you are. When the speedo read 65mph, you will really be going about 60mph. This error could affect trans shift points and quality, and whether or not the ecm will allow a WOT downshift under some circumstances.

A 275/65 would eliminate that issue. However, I really don't think a 275 tire is going to fit without rubbing. Remember, with the AWD, you have to keep all 4 tires the same, so whichever require the smaller size (front or back) is what you will have to use on all four wheels.

 

[roccov]

I am concerned about the clearance between the tire and upper ball joint area, You might be able to grind about 1/8" material for clearance but I wouldn't remove more than that. As long as the ball joints are tight, all you need is to see daylight between the tire and upper ball joint mount. As long as all parts are in spec this space will not change during the cycling of the suspension.


Some steering "locks" might be needed to eliminate rub on the front sway bar.

Also, check tire clearance at the rear inner wheel well area at full stuff.

Hey Turdle, I should have been more descriptive. 15x10's rear only. I'm sticking to 15x7's up front. Trying for big rear, small front.

 

[roccov]

They make a tool to simulate various size wheels/tires, for fitment purposes:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-01201/

Are you sure you really want 15x10's? That's a REALLY wide wheel. I used to use 15x10's on my dirt-track stock car. I have a feeling they will rub, especially on the front.

Also, if you are going from 235/75/R15 stock, to a 275 you would need a 65 series, not 60, in order to maintain the same rolling circumference as the 235/75 and not mess up your speedo and/or transmission shift points.

Using a 275/60 will result in a 7.5-8% error in speed. The speedometer will indicate, and the computer will think that you are going approx 8% faster then you are. When the speedo read 65mph, you will really be going about 60mph. This error could affect trans shift points and quality, and whether or not the ecm will allow a WOT downshift under some circumstances.

A 275/65 would eliminate that issue. However, I really don't think a 275 tire is going to fit without rubbing. Remember, with the AWD, you have to keep all 4 tires the same, so whichever require the smaller size (front or back) is what you will have to use on all four wheels.

Nice post on the wheel sizing tool. I've never seen one before. Again, sorry for not being as descriptive as I should have been. Right now I'm running 275 60 15 in the rear and the fronts are escaping me at this point but they have the same Revs per mile, diameter, etc. I'm keeping the tires as is since I know they work, had them on the truck for about a year now, I'm just wondering if that big of a wheel is going to fit the rear.

 

[roccov]

I took some measurements the other night and it looks like the tire will be flush with the absolute edge of the rear quarter panel and about a half inch from the rear stabilizer bar. That's if I measured right, who knows. Let me see if I can find a pic of how the truck sits now with the 7's and staggered front/rear tires on a awd.

 

[roccov]

Wheels are Weld Pro Stars

 

[roccov]

In case anyone looks to do something like this in the future, 15x10's on a lowered mounty/expo will fit. I did have to do some massaging to get them right which just included running a spacer. The tire would have rubbed on the rear stabilizer bar.

 

[roccov]

Sexy

 

[roccov]

Few more cam phone pics from this Saturday's fitting.

 

[roccov]

I ordered the remaining wheels, 1 more 15x10 and 2 15x7's for the front. I'll post some more pics next weekend when I finish up for those that may be interested.

 

[roccov]

10 > 7

Wow, I don't think I ever realized how bad my front camber is. No wonder why I need ball joints.

 

[Carguy3J]

Those wheels were not meant for something as heavy as an Explorer. You're dangerously close to their maximum weight rating, even w/ the Explorer just sitting there empty. According to Weld's website, the Pro-Stars are rated for a max of 1200lbs per wheel, 2400lbs per axle, or a total vehicle weight of 4800lbs.

The published curb eight, for an AWD V8 Explorer/Mountaineer is nearly 4500Lbs, with almost 2500lbs of that on the front axle. So, you've already exceeded the wheels limits on the front axle, and are close all the way around. Now, add your own weight and a tank of fuel, and the front is over even more, and the rear is about maxed out. Add a couple of passengers (fat or skinny), and/or ANY cargo and you're even futher over.

This issue is only further compounded by the vehicle being lowered. With less suspension travel to soak up any bumps,etc..., more force is transmitted to the rims. You're asking for trouble. It's entirely possible that you will bend or crack a rim. They could even just "fold up" on you, under the right circumstances, causing a serious crash.

The S71 series looks very similar to the Pro-Stars, but has a higher weight capacity (3,160lbs per axle) It's still marginal for this application, but it would be better.
http://weldracing.com/street-performance/rt-s/15-in-s71.html

 

[roccov]

Those wheels were not meant for something as heavy as an Explorer. You're dangerously close to their maximum weight rating, even w/ the Explorer just sitting there empty. According to Weld's website, the Pro-Stars are rated for a max of 1200lbs per wheel, 2400lbs per axle, or a total vehicle weight of 4800lbs.

The published curb eight, for an AWD V8 Explorer/Mountaineer is nearly 4500Lbs, with almost 2500lbs of that on the front axle. So, you've already exceeded the wheels limits on the front axle, and are close all the way around. Now, add your own weight and a tank of fuel, and the front is over even more, and the rear is about maxed out. Add a couple of passengers (fat or skinny), and/or ANY cargo and you're even futher over.

This issue is only further compounded by the vehicle being lowered. With less suspension travel to soak up any bumps,etc..., more force is transmitted to the rims. You're asking for trouble. It's entirely possible that you will bend or crack a rim. They could even just "fold up" on you, under the right circumstances, causing a serious crash.

The S71 series looks very similar to the Pro-Stars, but has a higher weight capacity (3,160lbs per axle) It's still marginal for this application, but it would be better.
http://weldracing.com/street-performance/rt-s/15-in-s71.html

I appreciate the time and concern you put into your response. I'm not being sarcastic.

I noticed the load ratings just as I was about to buy them, almost made a $$ mistake so I decided to get Weld Star replicas instead. The replicas have a 2100lb per wheel load rating at both 15x7 and 15x10. Thanks again for looking out!

I should have the remaining three on this weekend.

 

[roccov]

Finished up mounting the tires and sizing on the truck. All said and done, I'm fairly happy with the outcome. Here's a couple pictures I took with my phone as soon as they were all mounted.

 

[Turdle]

I like. Better pics with more detail to see the staggered width please!

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Nice setup. I would've gone with raised white letters especially wit those rims and an all white EX. JMO. Nice job so far though!!!

 

[Carguy3J]

Looks good.

 

[sino]

I like that.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good. How is the clearance at the LR parking brake cable? Is that a V8, with those you can R&R the cable to place it on the inside of the V8 anti-hop bar there.

Be careful for a while until you can check clearances at the rear inner fenders. The whole rear end with tires moves side to side a lot in hard turns. I had slight rubbing of my first tires, 255/60/17's on OEM 17x8 wheels(32mm offset). Spacers helped a lot with that.