Question (s) as / before replacing timing chain | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Question (s) as / before replacing timing chain

rocco123

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 24, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Endicott, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT & 2002 Limited
Gearing up to replace timing chain on my 02 Limited 4.6 Romeo eng (W in VIN#). I received the Cloyes timing set. No gasket was included for the tensioners. Shouldn't there be a gasket under the tensioner? Didn't take the eng apart yet.
Also, one of the cam sprockets has what looks like a balance piece on it. Shown below the keyway in this link on left side of pic in this link. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1397613&cc=1377671&jsn=575Not sure which side it goes on or if I should have any concern over it. Will keep an eye out for it when old chain disassembled.
For now, Im more concerned about a gasket & if I need to get one. No mention of gasket under tensioner in Chilton manual.
Thanks
 



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Hi Rocco

I have a 2003 Aviator, with 120K. Just curious are you replacing the timing chain because there are symptoms, or precautionary maintenance?

On mine everything is good, but am keeping an eye on it. How many miles on yours

thanks

Tom
 






I also have the Romeo engine -- and about 119k miles. It still runs like a champ. But I'm one that would rather do preventive maintenance rather than wait for break and fix. What is the recommendations for these as far as replacing the timing chain and related pieces?
 






I'm doing mine because I have 153K on the clock & it has been making the diesel sound on acceleration. If I'm really going in for guides as they are likely worn, but also doing the chain, tensioners, water pump & sprockets. Before taking it apart I'm checking oil pressure with an actual pressure gauge.
Being an interference type engine I feel I'm just buying some insurance here to keep it on the road. Also doing a compression check before It comes apart and comparing values to last compression check. I did get my answer from a friend about gasket. There should not be a gasket for tensioners.
 






Thanks Rocco, good move on your part. Just a couple of days ago I answered a CL ad about a Aviator being parted out. The ad said everything but the engine. I called and asked the man about a couple of parts. I asked him if was in an accident, he said no; it had a bad engine. I asked him "timing chain", yup 147K. I also saw one at a JY, bad engine 164K. I'm assuming timing chain.

Tom
 






Older I get I've come to realize I buy a lot of insurance
 






My experience, at 156k I started getting a rattle at cold start, which quickly went away. I used the WOT trick for a few months before tackling it.

I bought the Cloyes kit expecting the worse. For me, it was jus a bad tensioner on the passenger side. I replaced both tensioners as well as the guides.
I ended up buying the components separately and replaced the items I used in the kit. I didn't have a chain eating through my guides, so I felt there was no need to replace the sprockets or chains, thus I retuned the kit.

The noise for me was the chain slapping against the ignition pulsator ring on the crank. The ring doesn't come in the kit, so I ordered it from Ford for $20.

Parts I used:
Timing cover gasket set
Guides and tensioners
Valve cover gasket set
Black RTV
Throttle Body Cleaner (which I used instead of acetone to clean up the aluminum surfaces.)
Harmonic balancer bolt
Harmonic balancer (good time to replace it)
Ended up needing a new PS pump pulley as the removal tool scored the inside bore.
Pulsator Ring

Tools
Various sockets/wrenches
OTC Crank holding/positioning tool
OTC Strap wrench
Harbor Freight pulley puller (for HB)
Zip Ties
 












Cloyes 2002 Explorer kit should come with metal tensioners as well.
 






They are steel. Already have them.
 






Cloyes 2002 Explorer kit should come with metal tensioners as well.

How is the correct part number identified?

CLOYES 90387SJ - To October 2002
CLOYES 90387SG - From November 2002

Is that production date? from the door jamb sticker?
 






Can you look at both? The only difference is probably the composite vs. metal tensioners. I'd say go with the early one. Best if you could look at them.
[MENTION=8968]rocco123[/MENTION] can you confirm which one you got?
 






I bought the one with part number ending in SJ. My truck was built in 6-2002. Kit cane with Metal tensioners. So far I've confirmed 70 pounds of oil pressure by temp installing a real gauge. Not replacing oil pump since I've verified great oil pressure.
 






where did you install the gauge? i'd like to confirm that on mine as well
 






Installed oil press gauge by removing oil pressure switch located just above oil filter. Small amount of oil does come out and runs down your arm. It's a temp install, so I just routed nylon tube thru area of left headlight so I could attach gauge and read it.
 






Ok, worked on it last night a bit. Are harmonic balancer holes for pulling M8 x 1.25? Bolts not threading in too easily and trying to chase threads but want to confirm size. Also, damn right valve cover very tight to get off due to AC lines in the way. Removed hardware from receiver dryer and fender bracket to try to give slack in lines. One last bolt (I hope) and radiator will be out. Hardest radiator I've ever removed.
 






Chase the harmonic balancer threads and the power steering pump shaft as well. Chase any and all threads you can. Yes, 8mm X 1.25. I dress my taps with clean engine oil and run in, out and clean, in a little more etc... Instead of forcing them in.

Passenger side valve cover was a little tricky. I left my radiator in, just covered it with card board.
 






Thanks #4 . Just an fyi so you know where I'm at experience wise. 28 yrs A & P.
 






Are you doing the chains and gears too? I assume yes, as you bought the kit. I planned to original, but opted out once I got in and there was no damage. (I.e. Chains eating through guides.)
 



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Yes. Got balance off no problem.working on ps pump. Don't want to drain it. I've replaced the pump and rack (2x) so going to remove pulley as that bottom bolt is difficult without ps line out of the way.
 






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