@ questions about lower and upper ball joints

[mf7365]

So I replaced both upper and lowers about 5 yrs. ago no problem and started today to replace both lower ball joints and tie rod ends.
1)After taking everything apart I can not in any way get the supporting assembly/bracket that holds the tie rod, brake caliper and ball joints to come free from the lower ball joint. I have tried heat, hammers etc. Somehow the bracket is frozen to the ball joint. It just fell off last time as soon as the upper joint came free. Anyone else experience this and find a solution?

2) How do you get the upper ball joint back into the bracket deep enough to put the screw back threw? I tried lifting the lower suspension to bring it up but no dice.

 

[Jstcruz]

If I'm on the same page as you; I loosened the upper ball joint and let the lower control arm go down as much as possable, Heated the lower ball joint stud, hit the top of the spindle (?) with a hammer several times untill it came off. To get it back up onto the upper ball joint I raised the lower and tugged on it a few times. It took a little effort but went right in. I just did this a few weeks ago on mine. A "pickle fork" ball joint tool might help but I did without it.

 

[mikepier]

So I replaced both upper and lowers about 5 yrs. ago no problem and started today to replace both lower ball joints and tie rod ends.
1)After taking everything apart I can not in any way get the supporting assembly/bracket that holds the tie rod, brake caliper and ball joints to come free from the lower ball joint. I have tried heat, hammers etc. Somehow the bracket is frozen to the ball joint. It just fell off last time as soon as the upper joint came free. Anyone else experience this and find a solution?

2) How do you get the upper ball joint back into the bracket deep enough to put the screw back threw? I tried lifting the lower suspension to bring it up but no dice.

The assembly you are talking about is the steering knuckle. I had problems also. A pickle fork helped, you can rent it at Advanced or Auto Zone.

For the upper, you want it just deep enough so the pinch bolt has clearance to go through the knuckle. I can't remember, but I don't think the lower ball joint stud had to get get hammered all the way down to do this. Just look through the bolt hole on the side as you are hammering down.

Also make sure the stud is going in "squarely" into the hole and not crooked or at an angle.

 

[Sedition]

1)After taking everything apart I can not in any way get the supporting assembly/bracket that holds the tie rod, brake caliper and ball joints to come free from the lower ball joint. I have tried heat, hammers etc. Somehow the bracket is frozen to the ball joint. It just fell off last time as soon as the upper joint came free. Anyone else experience this and find a solution?

I did this job last night and today. I got that bracket off by removing everything including the upper ball joint, brake caliper, rotor, rotor guard, ABS sensor and Axel half shaft nut. I then used a 4lb hammer to drive a large open end wrench between the lower ball joint the braket then tapped the end of the wrench down to pry the bracket free a little. I then got into a good position with a 4lb hammer and beat it down good a few times and it came right off. Don't hold back with the hammer, hit it hard!

2) How do you get the upper ball joint back into the bracket deep enough to put the screw back threw? I tried lifting the lower suspension to bring it up but no dice.

I jacked the bottom of the bracket a little then I hit the top of the upper control arm with a rubber mallet. You can also put a cresent wrench on the upper control arm and use the leverage to pull it down. I find the rubber mallet works best.

 

[mf7365]

Thanks. I will definitely try using a pickle fork for the lower and see we're it goes from there. The upper joints I'm replacing so maybe they will be a little easier once the new parts are in.

 

[my98nnj]

To get the upper ball joint down and into the knuckle, use a pry bar and pry the upper control arm down.

To get the lower ball joint to separate, hit the side of the joint, not the top. The impact on the side will squeeze the joint and send it down and out. You'll be surprised at how easily this works.

 

[71cutty455]

I had a hard time getting my lower ball joint to separate - I hammered forever on the side of the knuckle but it wouldn't release. But about 10 seconds with a pickle fork did the job! Definitely try that, just hammer it in the joint and push it down - should pop the stud right out.

As far as the upper ball joint stud I only had trouble with the passenger side which happened to be the two piece control arm. I ended up putting the stud in and tightening the pinch bolt BEFORE bolting the control arm in, was 10 times easier than trying to get that stud to align and slide in the spindle after the control arm was bolted in. It may be a little more difficult to do that with the once piece control arm but worth a try!

 

[mf7365]

Everything is fine except that I can not for the life of me get the passenger side upper ball joint to go go down into the spindle far enough to get the bolt through. Once I get to were the ball joint tapers wider it just freezes. I have beat the thing with a small sledge to no avail. Any ideas. this is getting frustrating. The drivers side is finished and all that is keeping me from being done is getting that ball joint seated. It is the moog 1 piece K8710T.

 

[mikepier]

Everything is fine except that I can not for the life of me get the passenger side upper ball joint to go go down into the spindle far enough to get the bolt through. Once I get to were the ball joint tapers wider it just freezes. I have beat the thing with a small sledge to no avail. Any ideas. this is getting frustrating. The drivers side is finished and all that is keeping me from being done is getting that ball joint seated. It is the moog 1 piece K8710T.

The K8710T is actually the half piece, not the complete ball joint and control arm. If you already mounted 8710 to the existing control arm, remove it, and then try to get the ball joint in the knuckle again. Sometimes the ball joint does not go in squarely due to the way its mounted at an angle with the control arm. Once the ball joint is in, then mount it to the control arm.
If still no luck, take a large screwdriver and GENTLY pry open the ball joint seat on the knuckle to widen it just enough to get the ball joint in.

 

[mf7365]

I guess I was thinking 1 piece in that the other piece is the actual control arm already attached. So how did you go about getting the ball joint in the knuckle if it was not attached to the upper control arm piece? The half piece with the ball joint would need to be held by hand? Did you have the rest of the entire mounting bracket attached to the lower ball joint when you did this or separate?

 

[The Breeze]

An easy way to get the upper ball joint to go down far enough into the spindle so the pinch nut slide through is to get use your jack and a tie down. put the jack underneath the lower a arm and wrap the tie down so its underneath the jack and put the hooks on the upper control arm. then jack slowly and as you do tighten the tie down and eventually it will pull right into place. I had a hard time with the upper ball joint too when I did my spindle lift but this trick will work like a charm.

 

[mikepier]

I guess I was thinking 1 piece in that the other piece is the actual control arm already attached. So how did you go about getting the ball joint in the knuckle if it was not attached to the upper control arm piece? The half piece with the ball joint would need to be held by hand? Did you have the rest of the entire mounting bracket attached to the lower ball joint when you did this or separate?

It was seperate. I remember when I did the drivers side, which is the complete assembly, is that the ball joint stud must go in squarely.
With the passengers side half piece, obviously is easier to do since you have more control of the ball joint while hammering it in.