Questions with my codes

[nazcar]

the numbers I got at orielly's off their ODB1 scanner, the results I got from the code list from this site..
with the number codes and your results, I gather my o2 sensor is shot, egr valve thing is shot and my throttle position sensor is bad, is all this correct?
I did change the TPS today and my truck stills bog's out real bad. Any suggestions?

157
(R,M)
Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded -

MAF

171(M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was

at adaptive limits - Single, Right or Rear HO2S -

Fuel control

172
(R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was

lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

176
(M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was

lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control

181
(M)
Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right

or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

186
(M)
Injector pulse width longer than expected or Mass

Air Flow (MAF) lower than expected - Fuel control

189
(M)
Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front

HO2S - Fuel control

327
(O,R,M)
EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE

332
(R,M)
EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory

code, did not open intermittently - EVR or PFE

337
(O,R,M)
EGR feedback signal is/was was high - EVR

Main one is 167\332
EGR and TPS ( throttle position sensor )
(So the guy at orielly's told me )

Changed TPS 3/26/11

 

[MrShorty]

I don't know how the guy at o'reilly's decided that those two were the important codes. They might be, but I might suggest a different starting point depending on what types of codes those are.

Usually the best first place to start with a laundry list of codes like that is to identify the KOEO codes (Read through my "notes on pulling EEC-IV codes" thread to learn how to distinguish between KOEO, KOER, and CM codes). I suspect the guy at O'Reilly's may not have known how to tell, and also probably didn't tell you which was which. Because KOEO codes are set with the engine off, they are almost always electrical hard faults and are the easiest to track down. If you know which codes are KOEO codes (or if it passed (111) the KOEO test), then let us know. If not, you might also review the above mentioned threads plus the others here and learn how to pull codes yourself (so you'll never have to rely on the guys at O'Reilly's to pull codes).

 

[Roadrunner777]

That's a list... I'd clean the MAF first, clear codes and read again, may clean up some other ones.

 

[mehedgec]

I second the MAF being the #1. Generally if both banks are throwing lean codes, it'll be the MAF because it isn't likely that both O2 sensors will go at the same time.

 

[nazcar]

Well, I cleared the codes and went back, now only the "EGR Flow Insufficient" KOER

Whats going on is, as of today, I have to really easy into the gas to gain speed or it spit's and sputters ( bog's out ) the fuel filter looks fairly new, maybe a year old going off the surface look..

Now it is dark outside and as I was looking under the hood, revving the engine manually, I noticed the spark plug ( driver side rear one ) throwing sparks out. Now I plan on changeing the wires 2morrow but would that cause the bogging problem?

 

[nazcar]

Went for another test drive, still have to ease into it. It got to the point after coming to a hill ( incline ) that we barely made it up the slope and drove a mile back to oreillys ( at a whoppin 15 MPH ) just to make sure if it did break down we had a place to park. We didnt do the scanner this time but worked with the throttle from under the hood where if we eased into it, it revved decent but iffen I hammer it, it dog's out instantly. Then I shut it off for a few minutes and then proceeded home, back at a creeping 50 MPH... Still sound like a MAF ?

 

[MrShorty]

Maybe, but I'd probably start with the EGR code you are getting. When you say the EGR code is a KOER code, does that mean it passes (111) KOEO and CM? The DPFE sensor seems to be the most problematic part in the EGR system, so I'd probably start by testing the DPFE sensor circuit.

 

[nazcar]

Is there supposed to be 2 hose's hooked up to the DPFE sensor? ( no hose's on mine at all )

I will read this post http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/342419-how-to-test-your-dpfe-sensor.html and if in my means, try to test it tomorrow.

 

[Roadrunner777]

If you are still throwing sparks, that could be taking out 2 cylinders, as the coil fires in pairs.

 

[nazcar]

Ok, on a side note, tring to change the fuel filter, only thing it, it has steel braided hoses and I can not seem to get the filter off. Is there a special trick to this?

 

[Roadrunner777]

The stock connections require a funny little tool, your parts store should have asked you if you had one! Here's some info:



http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102197

 

[nazcar]

Got the filter changed and it seems to be running ok now, putting this thread on hold at the moment for further testing.

Thank you all for your very useful help thus far...

EDIT, changed the plug wires also

 

[nazcar]

Well, turns out, after a few miles on the road, it still dogs out ( bad, specially on a hill it damn near stalls's ).

I did however buy a new DPFE sensor BUT I can not install it. Somebody has broken off the connection tube ( big side ) off the exhaust pipe tube thing... Man, this really sux, dunno where im gonna find one of these.

 

[nazcar]

Back again... Funny thing about this DPFE sensor, when I got this truck, the 2 hose's were not hooked up and it ran fine. At any rate, I have tested the old one via the test page on it

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/342419-how-to-test-your-dpfe-sensor.html
And it works fine .

I have hooked up the front port ( small hose ) to the available port and and hooked the back port ( big hose ) into the open hole in my erg tube , with improvement either. The EGR valve appears to be working properly (visually see the orange thing inside move ) via manual vacuum and while hooked up ( with or without the DPFE )

The truck sat for about 14 hours. ( it is cold here ) when I got home today, I fired it up, ran it around the block a few time's and it ran perfect UNTIL the truck warmed up.

Does any of this ring a bell ???

TIA,
Nazzy

 

[Scout3]

You never said if you corrected your sparking problem. If your wires are no good it could cause it to bog down.

Ed

 

[nazcar]

Got the wires changed but not the actual plugs, ran out of money on the sensors. Going to get them 2morrow

 

[nazcar]

Update, got my plugs and wires changed, still dogging out

 

[nazcar]

Status 4-4-2011

NEW plugs,wires DPFE sensor, ERG pipe with the 2 hose's , fuel filter.

Parts tested

Throttle Postition Sensor ( can unplug it and the motor changes, so I'm guessing it's good , actually bought a new one but it made no diff so I took it back)

MAF , if unplugged , also the motor changes, so guessing it's good ).

Results from last night are ,
I took off the air breather tube to the intake and placed my hand in front of the throttle valve assembly and with me letting in less air manually, the truck runs great.

Does this info ring a bell?

 

[MrShorty]

Did changing the EGR parts resolve the EGR codes? Are there other codes (you'll probably want to clear codes and test drive before checking because running without the intake tube will trigger an MAF code).

I'm not sure what the test shows by taking the intake tube off. Maybe it shows an alternate source of air (like a vacuum leak).

 

[nazcar]

All this mess for a fuel pump. I ended up takeing back the Dpfe , TPS and reverted to the ones I started with since according to the test procedures on this site told me they was good, After the plugs, wires and fuel filter had no effect on the bogging down, I thought I'd check the fuel pressure, 40 at idle and 10/15 at any level acceleration. Put in new pump, (iffen the motor had more horse, ) we would be smokein tires.

Thank you everyone for the help yet with all this knowledge in this forum, this idea was never brought up, so now you can add yet another step for your solution for the next fella that come's along.

Thank you, Nazzy