Quick question

[crpowell67]

I have a 93 explorer 4x4 stopped working, I can push the button and here clicking from 4x4 computer, so i figure next is to check and either rebuild or buy a new 4x4 shift motor. What I am wondering is if i remove it will the vehicle still be drivable if I need to go get parts or new one ? it is my only vehicle.

 

[timtimtimajim]

If it's just the motor then yes you can still drive it, just make sure you cover the opening on the back of the transfer case so that no dirt or water gets in the transfer case.

 

[natenkiki2004]

When you remove the motor, you'll actually see a type of knob or switch that you can rotate by hand (if you're strong enough) to put it into 2WD, if you need to. Slap some tape over it and get a new motor when you can.

 

[crpowell67]

Okay thanks for the information on that... but i thought of another question about another problem The AC compressor is not engaging I have read that it will stop engaging if the coolant (134A) is low I got it from my sister in law when she had it the ac worked for about 2 years and stopped slowly (gradually didn't get as cold) I got the explorer at the end of last winter she got it about 9 to 10 years ago so it has been at least 9 years since it has been charged

 

[Gadget X]

Get a can of recharge freon stuff, if you don't have any major leaks, you'll have cold air again!

 

[timtimtimajim]

If it's a 93 it takes R-12 (Unless of course it's been retrofitted for R-134a) R-12 is really hard to find and very expensive, so it would be better to have it retrofitted for R-134a.

 

[crpowell67]

[MENTION=257666]timtimtimajim[/MENTION] = It has been converted to 134a already

[MENTION=64288]MayJan[/MENTION] = with the compressor not engaging I can't just hook up a can, the compressor needs to be running when you charge the system.

I just want to make sure the compressor is good, I guess I will jump it to see if it works. if it does I will leave it jumped while i add freon

after reading more on the internet I guess the reason it stops is to not burn it up so I am guessing I will be okay to keep it jumped while adding freon.

 

[Gadget X]

There is a low pressure cut off. The compressor will engage when you're adding freon when the pressure in the system gets high enough. It does not have to be running when you start. Just start the engine, and turn the a/c on max, and the blower on high, then start adding freon. The compressor will engage when there's enough freon to "register".

 

[Gadget X]

May be a dumb question, but did you push the fan speed switch in to turn on the compressor? You should have the a/c light on if it is energized.

 

[SuperKirby]

What all is entailed in converting to 134a, or how do you tell if it's been converted already?

 

[crpowell67]

What all is entailed in converting to 134a, or how do you tell if it's been converted already?

Most R12 systems the nipples look like valve stems and screw on while 134a is like a compressor and just snaps on

 

[SuperKirby]

So then i have r12. Can i convert it or do i have to take it somewhere? Ac would be nice But if it's going to be expensive I'd just as soon pull the compressor and all those parts so they're not in the way

 

[Gadget X]

Your cheapest option is going to be having a shop evacuate all the r-12 by pulling a vacuum on the system, then you can buy a retrofit "kit" that has the adapters, 134-a refrigerant, and the oil, for about $50. Not sure how much the shop would charge for the evacuation.

 

[larrydd999]

There's a bit more to doing a 'correct' conversion from R12 to R134a. You want to change the receiver-drier, remove all the old oil (lubricant) from the system because the 'new' oil for the R134a is not compatible, and change the orfice tube. Those 'quick-change' kits don't tell you any of that. You want to use a vacuum pump to remove all of the moisture from the system before recharging. Also, you should have - or borrow - a gauge set so you know what the high and low pressures in the system are. Changing out the o-rings is also a good idea as well (using the special tool), since the system obviously has a slow leak. (Yes, I'm repeating some of the previous comments, but am trying to be clear as to the requirements. I may have missed something, if so someone please step in to clarify further.)

 

[crpowell67]

Okay with my ac I tried putting 134a in and a can of same brand but with dye added so I can check for leaks my compressor never kicked on I put my finger on the relay it was clicking but no compressor engaged.

I went out after posting the above and hooked my MM up to test that voltage was reaching compressor it fluxed between 12.7 and low 13's

 

[Maniak]

That means your a/c wants to turn on and it has enough pressure but your a/c clutch (coil) is bad..

If you are lucky, your air gap is just too far open.. IF you're less lucky you need a new a/c compressor clutch...

Now for the good news.. You don't open the system to fix this..

The air gap should be .025 inch. If wider, that would explain why it won't engage...

Grab some feeler gauges and check the air gap.. (space between that little place in front of the a/c clutch and the a/c clutch).

~Mark

 

[crpowell67]

I'll check that in the morning if it is more how di I adjust it and if it isn't do i need a new compressor

 

[Maniak]

I am not finding a thread on EF with instructions here.. BUT, this is about all you need to know for the air gap.. http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/99/Adjusting-Clutch-Gap-on-the-Ford-FS10-Compressor


For changing the clutch, you just need to pull the clutch off... I used 2 screw drivers and pulled it evenly and it came right off.

This page was linked to from someone who did it on EF.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl168i.htm

[MENTION=63829]Tbars4[/MENTION] may know of a thread on here... he is much better at searching on EF than I am...

~Mark