radiator cooler line to transmission | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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radiator cooler line to transmission

dmora

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las vegas, nv
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 ford explorer trac
Hi. New here and looking for advice.

My dad owns a 2001 Ford Explorer Trac. He recently removed the radiator and he claims that the lines (transmission oil cooler line) the lower one was already bent like you see in the picture. I'm calling BS and I know that he did it. So my question is how hard is it to replace it? Can it be bought from any parts store or does it have to be OEM from dealer ship? From the picture it looks like I need the lower one.

Any advice is appreciated. I'm hoping it cant be difficult as replacing the thermostat housing. that was a pain in the ass.
 

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I’d just use a compression fitting to slap in a new short piece of line.
 






I’d just use a compression fitting to slap in a new short piece of line.
Thanks for the advice. I don't have the tools for that so I would need to buy them. Wouldn't it be cheaper buying the line? I think it cost $30. Just wondering if it's a pain to install.
 






I can’t say about the Trac. On the V8 second gen they are easy. I’d guess they were similar.
 






No way that line looks like that from the factory. Tools? You just cut out the offending crushed piece of hard line and splice in a piece of rubber transmission line of the right diameter (3/8" or 5/16" whichever). You can just use a couple of worm-type hose clamps to secure the hose to the metal line. Use 4 hose clamps if you're worried about it leaking, but the trans cooler lines don't carry much pressure (around 12 PSI). Just make sure to use transmission hose and not fuel hose.

Tools needed:
A hacksaw or small cheater pipe cutter
A flat blade screwdriver
 






Some members may disagree but it is a good time to bypass the built in transmission cooler. I have on more than one occasion had the built in cooler in a FoMoCo radiator fail and as a result AF/h2o get into the transmission (fluid) resulting in transmission failure.
 






Some members may disagree but it is a good time to bypass the built in transmission cooler. I have on more than one occasion had the built in cooler in a FoMoCo radiator fail and as a result AF/h2o get into the transmission (fluid) resulting in transmission failure.
Yeah, it certainly can happen. If you install a huge rad mounted cooler instead you’d be fine, unless perhaps if you were in an environment that gets super cold.
 






I’d just use a compression fitting to slap in a new short piece of line.

Should have taken your advice. Would have not wasted hours.

No way that line looks like that from the factory. Tools? You just cut out the offending crushed piece of hard line and splice in a piece of rubber transmission line of the right diameter (3/8" or 5/16" whichever). You can just use a couple of worm-type hose clamps to secure the hose to the metal line. Use 4 hose clamps if you're worried about it leaking, but the trans cooler lines don't carry much pressure (around 12 PSI). Just make sure to use transmission hose and not fuel hose.

Tools needed:
A hacksaw or small cheater pipe cutter
A flat blade screwdriver


I wish I would have take all the advice. I spent 2-3 hours removing that POS cooling line and installed the replacement I got from Autozone. Just to find out that on the transmission side the screw doesnt thread all the way in. I'm hoping it doesn't leak. The line seems to be all the way in. If it does leak i'll use the old cooling line fittings on the transmission and radiator cut it and just use transmission hose with (2) clamps on each connection. What a pita. Never again I want to do this.
 






are you sure it’s supposed to screw in all the way, or is it a tapered thread? If it were a standard pressure fitting, it’d leak for certain if it wasn’t sunk to the flare On the tube.
 






You might consider adding a new O-ring to the fitting on the radiator side. They're supposed to have one in there anyway. That might give the line's fitting something to tighten/seal against. This is why I hate Dorman stuff. They typically fall short on fit and quality and turn out to be only a temporary repair.
 






You might consider adding a new O-ring to the fitting on the radiator side. They're supposed to have one in there anyway. That might give the line's fitting something to tighten/seal against. This is why I hate Dorman stuff. They typically fall short on fit and quality and turn out to be only a temporary repair.
I’ve been bitten by Dorman a few times. I won’t use their stuff anymore.
 






are you sure it’s supposed to screw in all the way, or is it a tapered thread? If it were a standard pressure fitting, it’d leak for certain if it wasn’t sunk to the flare On the tube.

I'm hoping its tapered thread. I wasn't paying attention. I know that it felt tight and I stopped. the tub line fitting seems to be tighten.

You might consider adding a new O-ring to the fitting on the radiator side. They're supposed to have one in there anyway. That might give the line's fitting something to tighten/seal against. This is why I hate Dorman stuff. They typically fall short on fit and quality and turn out to be only a temporary repair.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping it wont leak. If it does i'll just use transmission hoses instead and do what I mentioned before. this is all new to me. Should have done more research before wasting all the time.

I’ve been bitten by Dorman a few times. I won’t use their stuff anymore.

Never again. Let's just hope this works out. I won't know until this weekend.
 






For what it's worth, none (none) of my Explorers, Mountaineers or my Sport Trac had tapered (NPT) fittings on their radiator trans lines. They all used O-ring seals. Screw the fittings by hand until they stop. Hold the fitting on the radiator side (very important to do) and tighten the line fitting with a second wrench. They don't need to me super tight. I've never had one leak a single drop. New radiators come with the O-rings installed.
 






Is he trying to install a double flair line in the late model FoMoCo female thread?
 






Is he trying to install a double flair line in the late model FoMoCo female thread?
He bought a replacement line so I’d think the flair should be correct.
 






Is he trying to install a double flair line in the late model FoMoCo female thread?

The OE trans line has a double flair-type of flair on it and the receiving side on the radiator has a the reverse cone shape in its center, but the O-ring is what does the sealing.
 






Update. So it doesn't fit on the radiator side and that is probably why it's not going in all the way on the transmission side. I looked closer and seems autozone gave us the wrong line or the the dorman has the fittings wrong on each side.

Here is the part.

The attached picture shows you that the fittings are reverse on the dorman line.

Also when I removed the bad oem line the fitting didn't have any O-ring but I know someone previously replaced the engine on this truck. Is it suppose to have O-Ring?
 

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Update. So it doesn't fit on the radiator side and that is probably why it's not going in all the way on the transmission side. I looked closer and seems autozone gave us the wrong line or the the dorman has the fittings wrong on each side.

Here is the part.

The attached picture shows you that the fittings are reverse on the dorman line.

Also when I removed the bad oem line the fitting didn't have any O-ring but I know someone previously replaced the engine on this truck. Is it suppose to have O-Ring?


I don't want to spend any more time removing the new line I put in. I'm thinking cutting each end and using the oem fittings since they work. Only issue is can I get the flare done underneath the car?

Or

I cut the lines leaving the part with the flare. Put the correct fitting and just use transmission hose to join them togehter along with double fuel injection style clamps.
 






I think that I was correct. Old double flair style versus the new style. Get up under the truck and where one line turns to go towards the radiator and cut it leaving yourself enough of the line going towards the transmission to carefully by hand straighten it towards the bumper. There is another line coming of of the trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator that turns to go to the built in cooler. Cut it. Now take an appropriate size piece of hose, 3/8" sturdy hydraulic hose and two clamps to entirely bypass the radiator cooler. I used a phillips head screwdriver and stuck in the end of each line and rotated it around to flair the ends a bit to help keep the hose from wanting to slide off. Now your built in cooler is bypassed.
I live where it gets up to about 105 F heat index and I don't tow often so the factory cooler seems to be plenty. If you live in a desert you may need a bigger cooler. You can buy a bigger cooler and it is a bit overkill, but I have seen people turn there AC condenser into a trans cooler. Bypassing the radiator "built in" cooler worked for me !
 



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Update. So it doesn't fit on the radiator side and that is probably why it's not going in all the way on the transmission side. I looked closer and seems autozone gave us the wrong line or the the dorman has the fittings wrong on each side.

Here is the part.

The attached picture shows you that the fittings are reverse on the dorman line.

Also when I removed the bad oem line the fitting didn't have any O-ring but I know someone previously replaced the engine on this truck. Is it suppose to have O-Ring?

The O-ring is not on the fitting on the lines. The O-rings are deep in the radiator's receiving fitting. You'd probably need a mirror to see it with the rad in the truck. IDK if you getting a line with the worn/reversed fittings is Autozone's fault or Dorman's fault. Does sound like a typical Dorman thing though.

All 4 of the 2001's I own/have owned had the same type of fittings, but I don't recall which type of end went where. I want to say the one on the right in the pic you provided goes to the radiator.
 






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