Radiator empty, Overflow tank overflowing.

[koda2000]

i might have to do this on my son's. The rad seal leaks at the top when the tank etc is full. The it eventually pushes the fluid out and stops as its below the crimp seals of the tank. I have replaced the rad pressure cap with the lower pressure one but it is still enough to get out.

I am thinking of trying Bars Leak in this. I have used it in other vehicles without any problems. i appears to be a big job removing the rad and the cost of the new one is above average not to mention the transmission hook up as well.

Trust me, your only solution is to buy/install a new radiator. No one repairs aluminum core/plastic tank radiators and even if you could find someone to attempt it it wouldn't be worth it. You can purchase a new replacement radiator for as little as $100-$120. I've installed 4 CSF brand radiators and only had a problem with one, which was still under warranty and was replaced. Don't waste your time or money screwing with your old radiator. Even if you could get it to seal its on it's last leg.

Some advice: Next time you have an issue start your own thread instead of tagging onto a eight year old thread which has a different problem than yours.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto.

You can use K'Seal or another stop leak, and get it to last a couple more weeks, or a couple months if you're lucky. You should start on finding a radiator now, and plan to swap it ASAP. The radiator won't be that bad to change, compared to the 302 trucks we have.

Find out how old the rest of the coolant hoses are. If you know they are old, or you don't know how old they are, replace them all. Use a coolant additive like Water Weter, and the best anti-freeze, plus a new thermostat. Doing that all now, you shouldn't have to touch the cooling system for many years.

 

[koda2000]

Ditto.

You can use K'Seal or another stop leak, and get it to last a couple more weeks, or a couple months if you're lucky. You should start on finding a radiator now, and plan to swap it ASAP. The radiator won't be that bad to change, compared to the 302 trucks we have.

Find out how old the rest of the coolant hoses are. If you know they are old, or you don't know how old they are, replace them all. Use a coolant additive like Water Weter, and the best anti-freeze, plus a new thermostat. Doing that all now, you shouldn't have to touch the cooling system for many years.

In my experience no coolant system sealer will work on a tank seal leak. If the leak is w/in a few inches of the top of the radiator, you can live w/it for a while w/out hurting anything. Don't bother refilling it, it will just leak out immediately. Just check the coolant level in the rad regularly until you replace the radiator. I limped a vehicle along for months with this issue until I figured out where the leak was.

You could try taking a pair of vice grips and tightening the crimp where the leak is, but it probably wont help.

 

[CDW6212R]

My truck was seeping barely when I got it, almost imperceptibly from both sides. It was fine for about 18 months, and then it leaked enough I had to add to it every 2-3 weeks. That's when I began using additives, the aluminum powder was what I had on hand to start with. That was last December. Over 3-4 months it would not leak at all for weeks at a time, and then it would need a quart or so. The overflow tank would drop when it was leaking enough.

The cap was good so I could monitor the level by the overflow bottle. Then it began leaking enough I had to watch it daily, and add some every couple of days. I had already bought a new radiator, but I put it off until one day it leaked badly going to the dump. I took the cap off at home, and the radiator was down more than half way. That's when I changed the radiator, hoses, and T'stat.

OP, you need to replace the radiator soon, that's the bottom line.

 

[Turdle]

i might have to do this on my son's. The rad seal leaks at the top when the tank etc is full. The it eventually pushes the fluid out and stops as its below the crimp seals of the tank. I have replaced the rad pressure cap with the lower pressure one but it is still enough to get out.

I am thinking of trying Bars Leak in this. I have used it in other vehicles without any problems. i appears to be a big job removing the rad and the cost of the new one is above average not to mention the transmission hook up as well.

This band aid will fall off once you the furthest from home or repairs.

Instead, consider a new radiator. Check ebay.

You could even opt for a aluminum radiator


Aluminum Radiator For Ford Explorer XLS XLT 96-99 Mercury Mountaineer 97-99 V8 965897617611 | eBay

 

[tripplec]

This setup has a sealed cap on the top partially covered by the overflow tank sitting their. If it was on the side it would not last as long as it has.

 

[Tech By Trade]

The rad is pretty easy to replace. Not much to it. Couple hour job.

 

[tripplec]

I read a lot on it last year. The transmission fittings were an issue with some rads. Lines did not fit or work with the OEM setup. I don't remember the specifics now more than that. The rad was still fairly challenging as well to get out.

 

[Tech By Trade]

The trick to the rad is the guides that hold them in place, there are a couple bolts you loosen up and they expand, and it can be pulled out easy. A lot of guys just fight with it until it comes out. There are a couple styles of transmission cooler lines. I got stuck with the early build ones, and the aftermarket keepers were garbage. After I swapped the ones out of my oem rad it worked fine.